Bobcat F-Series 751 Lift Arm Pins

[crapola82]

I have a bobcat 751, recently purchased. I am going through it to make sure its up to par on maint. I tried to grease all the lift arms and pivot points. Pivot points are tight, the machine has low hours. All were fine, except for the two lift arm pins at the top of the engine compt. and the two on the lift arm rams on the end closest to the engine. I removed the grease zerts and they were dry, caked with a black tar/graphite like substance. I was able to pound out one lift arm pin fairly easy, re-lubed, reinstalled with a little alignment difficulty, and installed a new zert. That side works great. The other side will not budge. I tried beating it with a big hammer. Any other Tips??????? they are not tapered pins. They only have a very slight bevel on one end (I assume to aid in the re-installation). It is currently drenched with PB blaster and I would prefer to not get the torch out just yet. The re-allignment troubles I had were lining up the holes. Any way to make that task easier. Its almost like I couldnt find a prybar long enough. What is the trick to get out the pins on the lift arm rams. It seems that the engine would have to be out for that? Do they get pounded inward tword the radiator fan housing, or pounded outward from the inside of the engine compartment (which I think would be impossible). Any tips for removing the grease zerts on the rams with the hoses in the way. They are 45 degree zerts so a socket wont exactly fit on them.

 

[Tazza]

I was sure the pins would clear the engine and radiator, i just did mine and i thought it was all clear.
The best way with the pins is to use a piece of 1 1/4" bar to knock the pins out, this way you don't need to align anything simply knock the pin in backwards. If you cut the bar to the same as the pin just knock it in the same way and the temp pin will be pushed out too. As you want to clean the hole out you can knock it in far enough to hold the arm then clean the hole. I personally would change the grease nipples then pump in good grease taht will push the old crud out.
Sorry i don't know how you can get to the 45 degree ones...
Have you tried a BIG hammer and a good sized punch? i'm talking like 1" piece of steel stock not a pin punch. A punch can't transfer all the energy to the pin.

 

[Fishfiles]

I was sure the pins would clear the engine and radiator, i just did mine and i thought it was all clear.
The best way with the pins is to use a piece of 1 1/4" bar to knock the pins out, this way you don't need to align anything simply knock the pin in backwards. If you cut the bar to the same as the pin just knock it in the same way and the temp pin will be pushed out too. As you want to clean the hole out you can knock it in far enough to hold the arm then clean the hole. I personally would change the grease nipples then pump in good grease taht will push the old crud out.
Sorry i don't know how you can get to the 45 degree ones...
Have you tried a BIG hammer and a good sized punch? i'm talking like 1" piece of steel stock not a pin punch. A punch can't transfer all the energy to the pin.

A trick to get 45 and 90 degree grease fittings out is to take a socket and use a side grinder to cut a slit in one side of the socket , if you use a 6 point socket you need to think about lining up your slit as if you put it in the wrong spot you won't be able to get on the hex of the zerk --------I would take the pin out as a very last resort , if cleaning the journal wth the zerk removed using a pick doesn't clear it I would use some heat around where the zerk screws into the boom boss