Bobcat drive chain OEM specs info?

[Sawmillman]

I have a 763 C series & my chain is Diamond 80, no other markings. I've read that it's supposed to be 80H, would that be indicated on the links if it was anything above a standard 80 chain?

Bobcat online site only shows the chain, no size & 62 pitch, which I believe is the number of pitches or links.
80 chain is 1" pitch and from what I read the front it 62" long + 1 master link.

I have also searched for a riveted style master link & only find spring clip & cotter pin styles. Don't know if I can trust either one in the chain case.

Thanks!

 

[Gearclash]

Sometimes chain will have its basic spec stamped on the side plates, i.e. "80" or "80H". But that is not a hard rule. The only dimensional difference between standard and heavy chain sizes is the thickness of the side plates.

I would have no concern at all about using spring clip or cotter pin secured master links. I have installed many chains in skid steers with master links. I have seen many chain failures on various applications including skid steers and the idea that the master link always fails is false. It is very rare that a master link fails.

 

[mrbb]

there are all sorts of chain designs too, from higher quality to cheap low end chains,
best advice is, if your not wanting to use a OEM direct chain replacement, contact a good chain company and ask what they recommend,, they do this for a living and can give you a lot of info, most have customer service email or phone #'s for contacting them
the world wide web can find you chain MFG's pretty easy with a simple search!

 

[ward]

Having been in Gehl, John Deere and New Holland skid steers, it seems to me that they all had the spring clips, I have never seen one fail however I once you slide the spring clip you want a magnet in hand to help hold on the the slippery clip once you get it lose, one of the biggest things I always thought was keeping the slack adjusted out helps to keep them from snapping, I could be wrong but once we started watching the slack in them and adjust it out we did not have them snap.

 

[Sawmillman]

Having been in Gehl, John Deere and New Holland skid steers, it seems to me that they all had the spring clips, I have never seen one fail however I once you slide the spring clip you want a magnet in hand to help hold on the the slippery clip once you get it lose, one of the biggest things I always thought was keeping the slack adjusted out helps to keep them from snapping, I could be wrong but once we started watching the slack in them and adjust it out we did not have them snap.

Hey ward, Thanks for the reply. I used to be an electrician and maintenance guy for a Tyco Electronics distribution facility. I had a lot of motors driving chain on miles of conveyor. I had to fix & maintain a lot of greasy chain. I didn't mind using spring clips or cotter pin master links because of the accessibility & running in one direction.

Bobcat drive chain in hydraulic fluid running in both directions don't seem reliable to stay in place. All the quality chain manufacturers show putting a spring clip on to run in one direction.

I would prefer to have a riveted style master but I haven't seen any available. I was thinking about spot welds on the pins.

 

[Gearclash]

I was thinking about spot welds on the pins.

Don't. That is asking for cracking at the edge of the heat affected zone.

The reversing nature of skid steer drive chains doesn't seem to affect spring clips in the least.

Having been in Gehl, John Deere and New Holland skid steers, it seems to me that they all had the spring clips, I have never seen one fail however I once you slide the spring clip you want a magnet in hand to help hold on the the slippery clip once you get it lose, one of the biggest things I always thought was keeping the slack adjusted out helps to keep them from snapping, I could be wrong but once we started watching the slack in them and adjust it out we did not have them snap.

I have seen more skid steer drive chains fail because they were too tight than because they were too loose. With the wheels jacked off the ground, the chains must never be drum tight at any point in the revolutions of driver and driven sprockets. If chains are snapping and over tension is not the problem, it can be that the chain is fatigued out for some reason, and it is also possible for a worn sprocket to cause overload on the chain.

 

[Sawmillman]

Mine are to the point where when I pulled up on the bottom of the chain & dropped it I can hear it tap the bottom of the chain case. There are wear marks/ scratches below each sprocket, but I think that is from a previous chain. ?
I'm totally against a tight chain, I know it will wear out sprockets or break.

 

[Gearclash]

Is there a way to adjust the chain tension? If so is the adjustment maxed out? I do not replace chains unless the adjustment is maxed out or the chains have been giving problems, usually breakage. If the adjustment is maxed out it is not a good idea to remove a link from the chain. Better to chuck the chain and replace it. If the oil in the chain case is maintained in good condition, chain stretch is very slow.

 

[ward]

the chains should not be tight to the point of preload, just to where they have about a 1/2 inch of sag or less.