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Message: <blockquote data-quote="skidsteer.ca" data-source="post: 4165" data-attributes="member: 307">The bottom picture shows 1/2 of the bronze bushing on the rh side of the center hole. The bushing is inside the hub, the bearing is outside the hub, and the idler is outside the bearing.The bearing was turning fine but the grease in it is getting a little stiff.The bronze bushing rotates on the shaft everytime the load on the engine changes enough for the belt to stretch a little. It seves the same purpose as the spring loaded tensioner on a serpentine belt drive on you pickup, but istead of the idler being on a arm, the hub is bored offset. That offset rotates on the bushing and shaft and the offset causes the idler to move in to tighten the belt. The first photo show the "dust cap" , just like a trailer wheel bearing/hub uses. Just take your hammer and cold chisel and pop it up out of the idler. It should be greasy inside this. Mine was full of black dust. If its greasy its fine, maybey put more in and put the cover back on. To disassemble,put the bracket into your vise  remove the 3/8 bolt, then the stack of washers.At this point you can see the bushing around the steel shaft. If it is wearing thin then this is the time to replace it. It will only wear on the one side that the spring put pressure against. If it is not worn oblong, then either spray it with you favourite lube, or unwind the spring and pull the idler wheel off the shaft. Then you can give it a good coat of grease  and re assemble.Also with the bracket still bolted to the engine but with the belt off, I could grab the idler and rock it side to side 10 to 15 degrees. And when I tighten the belt I could see the idler leaning sideways. I should have never even tried starting the engine because all I did was ruin the belt.I'll scan my service manual on this and post it here when i get a chance. But if your concerned, just loosen you belt and give it the "rock" test.I have yet to hunt down my favourite tech, but maybe someone in the know will chime in as to how common this problem is. Maybey I just got a dud.I know I'll be greaseing mine and checking the bushing play from here on. I ordered a new hub $80 (the part that goes inside the bearing, that the bushing goes into, a new bushing, $10 and new seals $16. And I'll get a bearing from a bearing supply place. And I'll still have to weld up the sureface the inside seal runs on and turn it round again and polish it. So I'm sure I'll have at least another $100 of time into itKen</blockquote>

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