Drain plug should be on the very front of the machine body. RIght behind the bobtach, lower right hand corner when you are looking at it.I don't think there is a drain plug, you generally have to open a line and pump the oil out. There should be a cap somewhere that says bobcat hydraulic fluid, i don't know where on your machine, but usually its behind the seat on the sides of the cab. The system should hold around 20L, but if it has water in there, you will need a lot more. You need to drain it, add more oil and a new filter then run it for a while then drain it again. You will need to do this a few times till the oil is clean looking.
Thanks mate. I've found a hose up high under the arm, maybe i can fill the fluid there? As for the drain plug, i think you're right an i may have to open a hose?I don't think there is a drain plug, you generally have to open a line and pump the oil out. There should be a cap somewhere that says bobcat hydraulic fluid, i don't know where on your machine, but usually its behind the seat on the sides of the cab. The system should hold around 20L, but if it has water in there, you will need a lot more. You need to drain it, add more oil and a new filter then run it for a while then drain it again. You will need to do this a few times till the oil is clean looking.
Don't forget the filters, there are three, two on the right side of the machine and one in the sump under the front cover. Two are the same number and the third is a different one, 1758 and 1759 NAPA filters and are about 20.00 each. Can't remember which is which but 10 micron and 25 micron is the difference and its important to put the right ones in the right spot, all three look the same and will fit in any of the locations. Otherwise the info from corey is correct assuming the machine is a later model, mine is an 1980 825. Hope some of this helps. JeffcoThanks mate. I've found a hose up high under the arm, maybe i can fill the fluid there? As for the drain plug, i think you're right an i may have to open a hose?
6591038 is the BC number for the filter inside the sump. I also forget which one you need 2 of. I can check my service manual if you are going with the Napa filters. Jeffco. what is the serial number on your machine? I am curious is all. Dont see much on 825 model in the forum. No wwe know there are 3 of us!Don't forget the filters, there are three, two on the right side of the machine and one in the sump under the front cover. Two are the same number and the third is a different one, 1758 and 1759 NAPA filters and are about 20.00 each. Can't remember which is which but 10 micron and 25 micron is the difference and its important to put the right ones in the right spot, all three look the same and will fit in any of the locations. Otherwise the info from corey is correct assuming the machine is a later model, mine is an 1980 825. Hope some of this helps. Jeffco
The 1758 is the 10 micron filter used in two locations on the 825, in the sump area and on the right side of the machine, its the filter that runs forward, the 1759 is the 25 micron filter located on the right side also but it is installed side to side as opposed to front to rear. The Bobcat numbers are 6591038 for the 1758 NAPA (2) and 6552507 for the 1759 NAPA (1). My 825 was supposed to be a 1980 but I can't prove that, ser number is 4958 NA 16057. Maybe someone will have a sound answer on the year. What hydraulic oil is the preferred oil for those older units, I can get AW 32 and AW 46 in bulk at about 5.00 per gallon, 10/30 engine oil will be 6.50 per gallon, I'm tempted to go with the heavier viscosity of engine oil hoping to get the best pump performance possible on this older machine. I did get some water in the hydraulic system so I am planning to service it, run it a few hours and then spin on a new set of filters hoping to clean any residual contaminants from the system. Any thoughts on this will help me, thanks, Jeffco6591038 is the BC number for the filter inside the sump. I also forget which one you need 2 of. I can check my service manual if you are going with the Napa filters. Jeffco. what is the serial number on your machine? I am curious is all. Dont see much on 825 model in the forum. No wwe know there are 3 of us!
My machine serial number is 4958 NA 16057. Its supposed to be a 1980 but who knows. 6591038 is a NAPA 1758 is a 10 micron filter used in the front sump and right side of the machine, it runs forward and backward, the 6552507 is a NAPA 1759 and mounts to the right side but mounts side to side as opposed to front to rear. What is the best oil to use in the hydraulics, I'm tempted to use 10/30 engine oil to get the best performance from these older pumps, what do you think? Thanks for the help, Jeffco6591038 is the BC number for the filter inside the sump. I also forget which one you need 2 of. I can check my service manual if you are going with the Napa filters. Jeffco. what is the serial number on your machine? I am curious is all. Dont see much on 825 model in the forum. No wwe know there are 3 of us!
Sorry about the double post, it said the operation was aborted but it must have found its way, please delete these last two. Thanks JeffcoMy machine serial number is 4958 NA 16057. Its supposed to be a 1980 but who knows. 6591038 is a NAPA 1758 is a 10 micron filter used in the front sump and right side of the machine, it runs forward and backward, the 6552507 is a NAPA 1759 and mounts to the right side but mounts side to side as opposed to front to rear. What is the best oil to use in the hydraulics, I'm tempted to use 10/30 engine oil to get the best performance from these older pumps, what do you think? Thanks for the help, Jeffco
My serial number is 4958 12051. The service manual says " Use Clark hydraulic/hydrostatic transmission fluid, (PN 6563328). 10W-30 or 10W-40 SAE motor oil API Class SE or SF can also be used. DO NOT use automoatic transmission fluids in this loader or permanent damage will result"Sorry about the double post, it said the operation was aborted but it must have found its way, please delete these last two. Thanks Jeffco
You know, once in a while you wonder; how could 6 gallons of water get into my sump. I guess I know why the 825 wouldn't go this winter. Cut open all three filters, clean as a whistle. Pleats a little wavy because of water absorbtion, thats it. I could never have asked for a cleaner sump, absolutely no metal debris at all, just 6 galons of water. I fould some bad cracks on the fiberglass pump cover, re fiberglassed them better than new. We had unusual rains when I got the unit home and let it sit outside, uncovered until it simmered down, and then the big freeze came so I covered it and let it sit all winter because it seemed to have the park brake on, I knew I would break something if I got too nuts trying to move it. One 50 degree day I pointed the torpedo heater under it and plugged the engine heater in and after a couple hours I drove it in the garage and thawed it out. I rather doubt any more water will come in from the pump cover or the from the plate just under the pedals. Any other entry points that I missed? I flushed the reservoir and installed three new filters and 27 gallons of AW46, the hydraulic oil equivalent of 15 wt oil engine oil. Pumps look knew, and when I test drove it, all seemed well. I have serviced this entire machine, hydraulics and engine, setting the valves tomorrow and taking it for a drive later. Thanks for the support, I had a new 743, back hoe, trailer, and extra buckets, the whole package, around 82 or 83, first thing the head gasket failed, Kubota gave me just the head gasket, no labor or coolant, nothing. Fortunately that was the only problem they had with that machine, but anyway I have always like the bigger Bobcats, just didn't realize the 825 isn't that popular. Now if I could just figure out how to get in without breaking my back. JeffcoMy serial number is 4958 12051. The service manual says " Use Clark hydraulic/hydrostatic transmission fluid, (PN 6563328). 10W-30 or 10W-40 SAE motor oil API Class SE or SF can also be used. DO NOT use automoatic transmission fluids in this loader or permanent damage will result"
Hope this helps. Corey.
Sounds like you got her ready to roll Jeffco. I had a question, you mention a fiberglass pump cover?? Is this the sort of half bell housing directly under the seat?? I only ask cause mine is metal if thats the part we are talking about. Just curious.You know, once in a while you wonder; how could 6 gallons of water get into my sump. I guess I know why the 825 wouldn't go this winter. Cut open all three filters, clean as a whistle. Pleats a little wavy because of water absorbtion, thats it. I could never have asked for a cleaner sump, absolutely no metal debris at all, just 6 galons of water. I fould some bad cracks on the fiberglass pump cover, re fiberglassed them better than new. We had unusual rains when I got the unit home and let it sit outside, uncovered until it simmered down, and then the big freeze came so I covered it and let it sit all winter because it seemed to have the park brake on, I knew I would break something if I got too nuts trying to move it. One 50 degree day I pointed the torpedo heater under it and plugged the engine heater in and after a couple hours I drove it in the garage and thawed it out. I rather doubt any more water will come in from the pump cover or the from the plate just under the pedals. Any other entry points that I missed? I flushed the reservoir and installed three new filters and 27 gallons of AW46, the hydraulic oil equivalent of 15 wt oil engine oil. Pumps look knew, and when I test drove it, all seemed well. I have serviced this entire machine, hydraulics and engine, setting the valves tomorrow and taking it for a drive later. Thanks for the support, I had a new 743, back hoe, trailer, and extra buckets, the whole package, around 82 or 83, first thing the head gasket failed, Kubota gave me just the head gasket, no labor or coolant, nothing. Fortunately that was the only problem they had with that machine, but anyway I have always like the bigger Bobcats, just didn't realize the 825 isn't that popular. Now if I could just figure out how to get in without breaking my back. Jeffco
The cover is directly over the pumps, under seat and up to the pedals. Probably 18 inches wide and 24 inches long, deeper at the front. I bet mine is an early version because my manual offered a reinforcement kit which ended up being strips of steel to run around the perimeter of the housing to stop the cracking of the fiberglass. I think I have that cover fixed and hopefully leak free. I won't take any chances and will keep her in the garage, cost of hydraulic oil and 3 filters was over 230.00, don't want to do that too often. JeffcoSounds like you got her ready to roll Jeffco. I had a question, you mention a fiberglass pump cover?? Is this the sort of half bell housing directly under the seat?? I only ask cause mine is metal if thats the part we are talking about. Just curious.
Corey
Now you got me thinking. Maybe mine is fibreglass, cause I have the steel frame that goes around the perimeter. I will have to give it a knock and see. 230 bucks is cheap in my mind, oil alone cost me 280 bucks for 27 gallons, filters would be another70 I guess.The cover is directly over the pumps, under seat and up to the pedals. Probably 18 inches wide and 24 inches long, deeper at the front. I bet mine is an early version because my manual offered a reinforcement kit which ended up being strips of steel to run around the perimeter of the housing to stop the cracking of the fiberglass. I think I have that cover fixed and hopefully leak free. I won't take any chances and will keep her in the garage, cost of hydraulic oil and 3 filters was over 230.00, don't want to do that too often. Jeffco
How about those filters, that one under the pedals, that's some real engineering there, that filter takes a while to replace, and to think I wanted to do a quick filter change in a few hours just to catch any water that may have been left behind. So much for that idea. Any way, having never seen the chain case in a Bobcat, I was somewhat impressed at the size of the chains and gears. I have minimal back lash which I was happy about and it didn't look like its been adjusted recently if ever. I'm quite sure the hydralics and hydros will be ok, but that little perkins is one hard starting engine. I fixed the engine heater on the intake but that looks like a fire waiting to happen so am going to install a grid heater from a Cummins 5.9 engine. I wish it had glow plugs but it predates that. The engine runs very well and is only hard to start first time, rest of the day, it's normal. It's good to know there are two or three other 825's out there, for me it's the perfect size and I think the price was right. JeffcoNow you got me thinking. Maybe mine is fibreglass, cause I have the steel frame that goes around the perimeter. I will have to give it a knock and see. 230 bucks is cheap in my mind, oil alone cost me 280 bucks for 27 gallons, filters would be another70 I guess.
Same here. Bought mine in Jan for several K less than I get into any other machine. Mine has glo plugs, I think it was a optionat the time. Right around 10 deg C here I need to give a 10 sec blast of the plugs and she fire up. I thought the same about the guts being beefy. My heighbour says the axles in his Grader are smaller that the 825. That filter under your feet???? WTF was that about. Removing the foot pedals, more the linkages, is a bugger. I did the axles seals back in Feb, if you have the external idler adjustments, get new o rings and blast them with extra silicone/gasket juice. One leak and you have to drain that sump all over again. I hear hte guys talk about there different machines, and how they have chain cases etc....couple liters here, couple there.....it makes me jealous.How about those filters, that one under the pedals, that's some real engineering there, that filter takes a while to replace, and to think I wanted to do a quick filter change in a few hours just to catch any water that may have been left behind. So much for that idea. Any way, having never seen the chain case in a Bobcat, I was somewhat impressed at the size of the chains and gears. I have minimal back lash which I was happy about and it didn't look like its been adjusted recently if ever. I'm quite sure the hydralics and hydros will be ok, but that little perkins is one hard starting engine. I fixed the engine heater on the intake but that looks like a fire waiting to happen so am going to install a grid heater from a Cummins 5.9 engine. I wish it had glow plugs but it predates that. The engine runs very well and is only hard to start first time, rest of the day, it's normal. It's good to know there are two or three other 825's out there, for me it's the perfect size and I think the price was right. Jeffco
I think I may have solved that pesky hard starting issue, my engine does have glow plugs. On the fuel side of the engine and I had mistaken the rear most plug as a broken temperature sensor. After reading your post I looked a little deeper and sure enough there were 4 of those on that side of the head. Apparently someone broke all the studs that connect the electric to them and just never replaced them. I just hope they are not all that expensive. More info coming on the cab jack (electrical) probable by tonight I will post my plans and maybe a picture if I can figure out how. I think things are progressing nicely. Won't get the paint done this year but the 825 should be mechanically sound. For some reason I just really like that machine, sort of a mix of old and new style, most people don't believe it is around a 1980. JeffcoSame here. Bought mine in Jan for several K less than I get into any other machine. Mine has glo plugs, I think it was a optionat the time. Right around 10 deg C here I need to give a 10 sec blast of the plugs and she fire up. I thought the same about the guts being beefy. My heighbour says the axles in his Grader are smaller that the 825. That filter under your feet???? WTF was that about. Removing the foot pedals, more the linkages, is a bugger. I did the axles seals back in Feb, if you have the external idler adjustments, get new o rings and blast them with extra silicone/gasket juice. One leak and you have to drain that sump all over again. I hear hte guys talk about there different machines, and how they have chain cases etc....couple liters here, couple there.....it makes me jealous.
Glad you found it has glow plugs, that will make starting a LOT easier.I think I may have solved that pesky hard starting issue, my engine does have glow plugs. On the fuel side of the engine and I had mistaken the rear most plug as a broken temperature sensor. After reading your post I looked a little deeper and sure enough there were 4 of those on that side of the head. Apparently someone broke all the studs that connect the electric to them and just never replaced them. I just hope they are not all that expensive. More info coming on the cab jack (electrical) probable by tonight I will post my plans and maybe a picture if I can figure out how. I think things are progressing nicely. Won't get the paint done this year but the 825 should be mechanically sound. For some reason I just really like that machine, sort of a mix of old and new style, most people don't believe it is around a 1980. Jeffco
www.firgelliauto.com/ is a major supplier of linear actuators. I have used them on motorized ladder racks of fire equipment and have been very happy them. I'm thinking 12 inch stroke and 400 pound lift will do. I doubt you will beat the price. You could be the first to go remote control on your cab tilt. I know, I know, a little to far on that but its late. I was looking at gas struts. About the same money but it would be my luck to get the cab forward and have to winch it back. Would need some calculations there, it's a start. jeffcoGlad you found it has glow plugs, that will make starting a LOT easier.
