Hi Folks- I recently replaced the main drive belt along with all the other belts and followed the manual to use a pry bar and move the tensioner against the belt beyond the 1:00 position. The pointer didn't move much, so I took the tensioner back off. Found the great post ( thank you ) from the moderator and took off the dust cap. Bearing looks OK, there was a little grease spun out at the top of the bolt,etc, but the real issue is when I flipped the idler over and found the hub assembly cracked where the pin fits in to hold the spring. Not broken off, just cracked. I'm thinking that the machine ran for awhile with no tension on the spring. Anyway, wondering if I could spot weld it to save the $128.00 from Bobcat to replace the hub assembly. It's not so much the cost of the hub but taken it all apart. Also, what should be greased in there and how much tension, if any, should be put on the spring when I put it back together? Thanks!
Bobcat 773G drive belt tensioner
- Thread starter andyjax
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antfarmer2
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I would replace all evan the spring
I see no problem with doing that if it's just where the pin goes. If it was the actual spring, then you'd need to replace it but the rest is not hardened steel.
Thanks Tazza- I bought a new tensioner today but still having problems. Put the new tensioner on, put the adjustment bolt in, then tried for an hour or so to move the pointer to the 3 o'clock position with a variety of pry bars. Tensioner bracket wouldn't budge and pointer never moved. Didn't want to force it so I thought I'd seek advise first. The belt is the correct one, I just replaced it when all this started, but it's the same as the old one. I took up as much slack as I could in the belt, still no luck. Any suggestions greatly appreciated. Thanks! Andyjax
I have read that people have had issues getting the pointer to move, some times it's stuck and a jar can get it moving. You can try getting it nice and tight and run it then re-check and see if you can get it right?
It does take a fair bit of force to be the correct tension, so i'd like to think you would not over do it without the pointer moving.
reaperman
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Its common for the pointers to stick. If you bottom out the tension with a pry bar and back it off just a little, the tension will be right.
OK thanks, but the pointer is all the way back to the one o'clock position. If you look at the back of the tensioner, the pin is up against one end of the slot. The other end is the 3 o'clock position. Is there a way to put it in a vice and whack the pulley to get the pointer to move first? Thanks.
