Bobcat 753H no lift partially bucket tilt

[Semper-magis]

I bought Bobcat 753H manufactured 1995g. serial number 511476421 (EUROPE-Croatia) with 6037 hours. A new ignition wires has been installed on the right side of machine (originaly switch is on right side panel) and it has a built-in BICS. The screen works. When the ignition is switched on, all LEDs on BICS interlock panel are switched for a secont on and only POWER constantly burns. The machine can be driven back and forth only when traction control override is activated. Pressing the lift pedal does not work (left pedal) and no lift. Bucket opens only in one direction to the machine but does not want to return to the initial position. The machine did not work for 3 years and the last job was loaded with salt for winter service. All solenoids tested and working (12v each is connected) I am trying to solve the problem. Can somebody help me.

 

[Tazza]

If all the lights are lit, it should be unlocked to allow you to drive. The traction over ride is there to make it so you can drive if say the seat bar sensor is not working or if the seat bar is up.
The bucket opening/closing issue could be a bad stem. Can you swap coils at the control block and see if moving the thumb switch the other way makes the bucket move?
If it does, the coils are indeed good and the issue is the stem. It either needs cleaning or replacing. I cleaned one on my machine that did not work when i bought it, and it had been sitting for an unknown amount of time, still works great.

 

[Semper-magis]

If all the lights are lit, it should be unlocked to allow you to drive. The traction over ride is there to make it so you can drive if say the seat bar sensor is not working or if the seat bar is up.
The bucket opening/closing issue could be a bad stem. Can you swap coils at the control block and see if moving the thumb switch the other way makes the bucket move?
If it does, the coils are indeed good and the issue is the stem. It either needs cleaning or replacing. I cleaned one on my machine that did not work when i bought it, and it had been sitting for an unknown amount of time, still works great.

Thank you very much. Only power light is lit. Machine can drive only when traction over ride button is on. How I can swap coils on the control block? What is the "stem"? Is this part that is triggered on the control valve when I press the pedal. Sorry for asking these questions. English is not my mother tongue and I'm not home to technical terms.

 

[Tazza]

Thank you very much. Only power light is lit. Machine can drive only when traction over ride button is on. How I can swap coils on the control block? What is the "stem"? Is this part that is triggered on the control valve when I press the pedal. Sorry for asking these questions. English is not my mother tongue and I'm not home to technical terms.

If you only have a power light, that explains why you need to hit the traction lock button to make it move, the computer is locking you out. Have you lowered the seat bar? when you do, the seat bar light should come on.
The stem is the part inder the cab, mounted to the control block that the coil is mounted to. When activated, it makes the internals move to make fluid flow to your bucket.
If you look at the post here: https://www.justanswer.com/construc...eries-bobcat-when-use-grapplebucket-when.html
Look at the first image, it shows two coils mounted to stems, this is the part that makes oil move in your aux circuit. Be careful, as these are wuite delicate and can be damaged.
I feel the main thing you need to work out is why it's not unlocking. See if the light comes on when you lower the seat bar.

 

[Semper-magis]

If you only have a power light, that explains why you need to hit the traction lock button to make it move, the computer is locking you out. Have you lowered the seat bar? when you do, the seat bar light should come on.
The stem is the part inder the cab, mounted to the control block that the coil is mounted to. When activated, it makes the internals move to make fluid flow to your bucket.
If you look at the post here: https://www.justanswer.com/construction-and-road-equipment/8bxsr-773gseries-bobcat-when-use-grapplebucket-when.html
Look at the first image, it shows two coils mounted to stems, this is the part that makes oil move in your aux circuit. Be careful, as these are wuite delicate and can be damaged.
I feel the main thing you need to work out is why it's not unlocking. See if the light comes on when you lower the seat bar.

I was frozen when I read the link you sent me that solenoids should not connect to 12v. The electrician I hired just plugged every solenoid to 12 V. I do not know how to check now if he has destroyed the coil. Do I check the passage of the coil with ohm meter. The seat bar is lowered and the lamp does not lit. I will take a video clip and put it on youtube so you can see what it is all about.

 

[Tazza]

I was frozen when I read the link you sent me that solenoids should not connect to 12v. The electrician I hired just plugged every solenoid to 12 V. I do not know how to check now if he has destroyed the coil. Do I check the passage of the coil with ohm meter. The seat bar is lowered and the lamp does not lit. I will take a video clip and put it on youtube so you can see what it is all about.

Checking resistance of the coils is a good start.
I think the fact the seat bar light is not coming on is your problem. It could be a bad sensor or wiring issue.
If you remove the sensor from where the seat bar pivots, plug it back in and use a magnet with the key on and move it around the sensor and see if the light comes on. Some times the part that holds the magnet that rotates for the seat bar breaks and does not turn, so the machine doesn't know the seat bar is actually down.

 

[Semper-magis]

Checking resistance of the coils is a good start.
I think the fact the seat bar light is not coming on is your problem. It could be a bad sensor or wiring issue.
If you remove the sensor from where the seat bar pivots, plug it back in and use a magnet with the key on and move it around the sensor and see if the light comes on. Some times the part that holds the magnet that rotates for the seat bar breaks and does not turn, so the machine doesn't know the seat bar is actually down.

Thanks to your advice safety bar light lit. Traction is still locked. The problem is that someone has changed the installation because I switch ignition on the right side (original switch is on the left side panel) . When I press the left pedal that should lift arms but this action start slowly move the bucket to the machine (rising the front wheels). Arm lift cylinders are under pressure but do not lift arms. Maybe I have problem with central valve. Right pedal also moves bucket to the machine but does not open bucket. After I shut off engine and push right pedal with heel, bucket moves to open position. My Bobcat has not worked for last three years, and rust has done damage.

 

[Tazza]

Thanks to your advice safety bar light lit. Traction is still locked. The problem is that someone has changed the installation because I switch ignition on the right side (original switch is on the left side panel) . When I press the left pedal that should lift arms but this action start slowly move the bucket to the machine (rising the front wheels). Arm lift cylinders are under pressure but do not lift arms. Maybe I have problem with central valve. Right pedal also moves bucket to the machine but does not open bucket. After I shut off engine and push right pedal with heel, bucket moves to open position. My Bobcat has not worked for last three years, and rust has done damage.

Sounds like you sure have some work to do, if someone has messed with it before you got it.
There is a lift lockout solenoid, that is why you can't lift the arms as the seat bar is not being detected as being down. Check the sensor and go from there, you need that light to come on to unlock the machine.

 

[Semper-magis]

Sounds like you sure have some work to do, if someone has messed with it before you got it.
There is a lift lockout solenoid, that is why you can't lift the arms as the seat bar is not being detected as being down. Check the sensor and go from there, you need that light to come on to unlock the machine.

Today is a great day for me. Bobcat works. No problem with lift and tilt. As I wrote earlier, I was able to illuminate the seat bar light. Today I managed to light up the seat sensor light and suddenly I heard the magical "clonk". The machine is unlocked and everything is working. There is no longer any need to use the traction override button. Now is a problem how to keep the seat sensor in the right position. When I sit in the seat, it is sometimes activated and sometimes not because I'm obviously overweight. Unfortunately, I can not quickly reduce my weight and I would like to ask you how the sensor can keep in the main valve opening position?

 

[Tazza]

Today is a great day for me. Bobcat works. No problem with lift and tilt. As I wrote earlier, I was able to illuminate the seat bar light. Today I managed to light up the seat sensor light and suddenly I heard the magical "clonk". The machine is unlocked and everything is working. There is no longer any need to use the traction override button. Now is a problem how to keep the seat sensor in the right position. When I sit in the seat, it is sometimes activated and sometimes not because I'm obviously overweight. Unfortunately, I can not quickly reduce my weight and I would like to ask you how the sensor can keep in the main valve opening position?

Bugger, i forgot some older machines have seat sensors....
Seats rot out and cause issues. Take this information as you will, but i have disabled seat sensors before. I feel it's safe as you still have a seat bar sensor.
With the sensor and magnet removed, rotate the magnet in the sensor till the light comes on, then past till it goes off, go back to the middle point and glue or cable tie the magnet in place. You now have a permenantly on sensor. Cable tie it in place and you are good to go.
As i said, it's your call if you do this or not. Some people may say bad bad, but the new machines do not have this sensor, so it can't be all bad to disable one sensor.

 

[Semper-magis]

Bugger, i forgot some older machines have seat sensors....
Seats rot out and cause issues. Take this information as you will, but i have disabled seat sensors before. I feel it's safe as you still have a seat bar sensor.
With the sensor and magnet removed, rotate the magnet in the sensor till the light comes on, then past till it goes off, go back to the middle point and glue or cable tie the magnet in place. You now have a permenantly on sensor. Cable tie it in place and you are good to go.
As i said, it's your call if you do this or not. Some people may say bad bad, but the new machines do not have this sensor, so it can't be all bad to disable one sensor.

Thanks to your advice the bobcat works. With the tractor I got a backhoe. I just change the hydraulic hose. How to activate the external hydraulic couplers. On the right hand, I have one trigger on the back and three switches on the front. When i turn on aux. hydraulic no bright LEDs. This led diode switch works because when I move the front switch located at the center of the handle, the connection hoses move under pressure. How can I get constant pressure on the external left hyd. couplers?

 

[Tazza]

Thanks to your advice the bobcat works. With the tractor I got a backhoe. I just change the hydraulic hose. How to activate the external hydraulic couplers. On the right hand, I have one trigger on the back and three switches on the front. When i turn on aux. hydraulic no bright LEDs. This led diode switch works because when I move the front switch located at the center of the handle, the connection hoses move under pressure. How can I get constant pressure on the external left hyd. couplers?

I had a machine with couplers on the left and the right, i never did work out how the left ones worked... The right ones were operated with the right handle, pressing the trigger gave constant flow for a backhoe.

 

[Semper-magis]

I had a machine with couplers on the left and the right, i never did work out how the left ones worked... The right ones were operated with the right handle, pressing the trigger gave constant flow for a backhoe.

Today the air temperature jumped from minus 3 to 12 C and I tried to run my bobcat for the First time this year. It first worked without any problem, and then, after I heard "CLONK", I immediately heard the "CLONK" again, and when engine started tilt and lift did not work again. I've filled the battery and everything is OK now. I noticed that it was on display the code GLO 5 and I do not know what that means. I may need to warm up before turning the ignition key. I'm interested in replacing the right lift cylinder hoses. It seems to me that the hoses are connected somewhere behind the rear door hinges. Where can I see what I need to dismantle for accessing holanders?

 

[Tazza]

Today the air temperature jumped from minus 3 to 12 C and I tried to run my bobcat for the First time this year. It first worked without any problem, and then, after I heard "CLONK", I immediately heard the "CLONK" again, and when engine started tilt and lift did not work again. I've filled the battery and everything is OK now. I noticed that it was on display the code GLO 5 and I do not know what that means. I may need to warm up before turning the ignition key. I'm interested in replacing the right lift cylinder hoses. It seems to me that the hoses are connected somewhere behind the rear door hinges. Where can I see what I need to dismantle for accessing holanders?

The glow should automatically count down in cold weather, when it hits 0, you should hear a click as the glow relay releases and it should be good to start after it's automatic glow.
So the clunk, is that when you were getting ready to start it? or was it running? sounds like the park brake releasing

 

[Semper-magis]

The glow should automatically count down in cold weather, when it hits 0, you should hear a click as the glow relay releases and it should be good to start after it's automatic glow.
So the clunk, is that when you were getting ready to start it? or was it running? sounds like the park brake releasing

Today I put my glasses and glow count down from 15 to 5, and after that I started engine without any problem. I think BOSS measures the battery voltage and prevents the start with "second clunk" if the battery does not have a specified voltage. Can I get advice how to replace the right cylinder lift hoses. It seems to me that these hoses are connected to a metal pipe located behind the corner of the door hinges?

 

[farmshop]

Today I put my glasses and glow count down from 15 to 5, and after that I started engine without any problem. I think BOSS measures the battery voltage and prevents the start with "second clunk" if the battery does not have a specified voltage. Can I get advice how to replace the right cylinder lift hoses. It seems to me that these hoses are connected to a metal pipe located behind the corner of the door hinges?

You can get them out from the back and the top by the cylinder. A variety of wrenches of different lengths and angles help. Also crows foot wrenches that fit to ratchets are a great help. Make sure boom is down or properly secured before working on the cylinder. If you’re seat switch continues to give problems there was a update that did away with that switch and a push to operate button installed

 

[Semper-magis]

You can get them out from the back and the top by the cylinder. A variety of wrenches of different lengths and angles help. Also crows foot wrenches that fit to ratchets are a great help. Make sure boom is down or properly secured before working on the cylinder. If you’re seat switch continues to give problems there was a update that did away with that switch and a push to operate button installed

Today I have noticed that oil is emitted on the dipstick. When the oil dipstick bar is removed, during motor operated oil drops and smoke are emitted. The oil dipstick stopper is hard and is not a elastic rubber. The engine has 6051 h and I'm afraid that this issue is for a general repair. Otherwise, the engine has power and runs smoothly. When the weather is cold, a white smoke is emitted. I worked with it without interruption for 8 hours and thrown underneath the engine maybe 1 dcl oil. I'm afraid that this is a serious motor failure. My plan is to place an ordinary rubber stopper on the place of the oil dipstick.

 

[walio123]

Today I have noticed that oil is emitted on the dipstick. When the oil dipstick bar is removed, during motor operated oil drops and smoke are emitted. The oil dipstick stopper is hard and is not a elastic rubber. The engine has 6051 h and I'm afraid that this issue is for a general repair. Otherwise, the engine has power and runs smoothly. When the weather is cold, a white smoke is emitted. I worked with it without interruption for 8 hours and thrown underneath the engine maybe 1 dcl oil. I'm afraid that this is a serious motor failure. My plan is to place an ordinary rubber stopper on the place of the oil dipstick.

Hello, I am from Bulgaria and it will be easier for us to speak in another language. Because of the people in the forum I will write in English. To blow oil from the oil rod tube, it means almost 100 percent of worn piston rings, pistons and cylinders. The compression passes through them and goes into the crankcase, causing pressure and throws the oil through the stick. Check the vent / hose that comes out of the valve cover is bent bad or stuffy, this is the other option.Make compresion test, you will understand almost everything

 

[Semper-magis]

Hello, I am from Bulgaria and it will be easier for us to speak in another language. Because of the people in the forum I will write in English. To blow oil from the oil rod tube, it means almost 100 percent of worn piston rings, pistons and cylinders. The compression passes through them and goes into the crankcase, causing pressure and throws the oil through the stick. Check the vent / hose that comes out of the valve cover is bent bad or stuffy, this is the other option.Make compresion test, you will understand almost everything

Thanks for quick response. I always thought Bulgarian was similar to Croatian but recently I had clients from Bulgaria and we did not really communicate well. This problem with my Bobcat happened at once. I think most oils come out under the oil gauge because it is tough and not sealed. Tomorrow I'll see where the vent hose is. I have to wash the machine to see where the problem is, and I think it has a problem also with the fuel because some fuel is on the place where is throtlle lever.