Bobcat 610 Variable Speed

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Szil66

Member
Joined
May 6, 2018
Messages
9
Wow….where to start…. personally, I would replace the jackshaft, block/splicer and both of the jackshaft bearings
The jackshaft is still available…Bobcat pt# 6551114….I don't know the price and rarely see them on E-bay. The block is available … Bobcat pt# 6502810….don't know the price but they are available on E-bay quite often….I have some if you need. They are pair/balanced with a mark on each half that needs to be matched up when installed. Bearings are Bobcat pt# 6518862 at $94.00 but you can get them on E-bay any day for $25.00 - $40.00….keywords (RA104RRB) I like the Fafnir the best but Timken work just fine. I hope you can reuse the pulley but if not it is still available….Bobcat pt# 6551201…about $30.00. The bushings in your 'driven' sheave look fine.
Roto-swivel assembly….there are too many parts to list so go to the Bobcat web site (bobcat.com) …. parts and work your way to the exploded view of the assembly. At a minimum I would replace parts #2, 4, 5, 7, 8, 25, 23, 22, 20, 19 and 18. That looks bad but only 20 and 23 are expensive….the rest are only a couple of bucks each. Find a manual and follow it closely for both of these jobs.
Hope this helps.
I am not having much luck finding just the block. When searching for it I can find the block, jackshaft assembly used for $215 but without better pictures it's hard to say the condition of that. I haven't priced the jackshaft but the new block from Bobcat is $131.
Most of the other parts I can find fairly easily so I am not worried about that. May just put it all in new from Bobcat rather than mixing and matching or buying used parts and hoping they're okay. But what would you charge for a set of blocks..?
Do you think the jackshaft is bent, is that why you suggest a new one?
It's a little bigger mess than I was hoping for but would like to get it running to use to help clear a farm site and move snow this winter so trying to get it all in check without spending an arm and a leg!
 

6brnorma

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 13, 2011
Messages
882
I am not having much luck finding just the block. When searching for it I can find the block, jackshaft assembly used for $215 but without better pictures it's hard to say the condition of that. I haven't priced the jackshaft but the new block from Bobcat is $131.
Most of the other parts I can find fairly easily so I am not worried about that. May just put it all in new from Bobcat rather than mixing and matching or buying used parts and hoping they're okay. But what would you charge for a set of blocks..?
Do you think the jackshaft is bent, is that why you suggest a new one?
It's a little bigger mess than I was hoping for but would like to get it running to use to help clear a farm site and move snow this winter so trying to get it all in check without spending an arm and a leg!
I'm sorry Szil66…….I was just thinking out loud when I commented on the shaft. After looking at your pic of the block and your comments about the bearing….my mind just expects to have a shaft that will not mic out or damaged in some other way. There is nothing saying that you in fact need a new shaft without more information…..it may be fine to reuse.
If you need the block contact me at [email protected] ….
 

njwbd

Member
Joined
Sep 12, 2018
Messages
14
I'm sorry Szil66…….I was just thinking out loud when I commented on the shaft. After looking at your pic of the block and your comments about the bearing….my mind just expects to have a shaft that will not mic out or damaged in some other way. There is nothing saying that you in fact need a new shaft without more information…..it may be fine to reuse.
If you need the block contact me at [email protected] ….
hello, I have m600 with what seems like the same variable speed set up. I was running the machine for a couple hours and the line from the variable speed lever blew.. I opened the little access door and find the roto swivel gone. the metal at the end of the hydro line and a spot in the middle of the hole both have a rough broken medal feel. the outer sheath will slide right off. nothing is holding it on. my bucket still works but the drive wheels don't. does the variable speed line work as a clutch for the mail belt drive? I just got this machine. ive just been researching and trying to figure it out, but this thread seems to have the right people. I have pictures, but have no idea how to post them my bobcat dealer was no help.
 

6brnorma

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 13, 2011
Messages
882
hello, I have m600 with what seems like the same variable speed set up. I was running the machine for a couple hours and the line from the variable speed lever blew.. I opened the little access door and find the roto swivel gone. the metal at the end of the hydro line and a spot in the middle of the hole both have a rough broken medal feel. the outer sheath will slide right off. nothing is holding it on. my bucket still works but the drive wheels don't. does the variable speed line work as a clutch for the mail belt drive? I just got this machine. ive just been researching and trying to figure it out, but this thread seems to have the right people. I have pictures, but have no idea how to post them my bobcat dealer was no help.
Alchemysa describes how to post pics earlier in this thread.
 

Bpu699

Member
Joined
Feb 24, 2020
Messages
14
Let's address one issue at a time…..if you put the variable speed sheave in high and it bleeds down, your leak is in the roto-swivel assembly (this is the most common source)….if it does not bleed down it is likely in the variable speed valve (especially the pressure relief rod….second most common leak) it is at the front of the variable speed valve and drips down onto the belt and throws oil everywhere. Can also be coming from the line itself. Pinpoint the leak and we can help you with that.
The "chatter" can be a lot of things but look at your 'driven sheave' (spring loaded sheave) note whether or not the bushings around the three pins have 'ovaled' out or not. Grease the sheave as needed.
The block should have the four center bolts in one direction and the four outer bolts going in the opposing direction. There is a stamp on each half of the block….make sure they are pointed in the same direction.
Hi folks, new here, my name is Bo. Have a bobcat 610 that needs some love. Replaced the hydraulic lines, working on the variable sheave. Read all the posts on here, still cant find an answer to how to remove it. I must be missing something... 1) Removed the side cover, disconnected the line to the swivel 2) Removed the small circlip that hold the swivel in, popped out the internal parts 3) There is a large end cap that I just can't get off. It is held by a circlip, which I can see, but its RECESSED into the end cap. It looks like you need to slide the endcap down the shaft, then pop the endcap off. Problem is, you can't side it!!! This looks like a c-clip. It doesnt have ears on it, like the pic in the schematic. I loosened the tension on the belt, and use 2 clamps to squeeze the sheave halves closer together. I got them to move about 1/4 inch, that it. Its like there is a powerful spring that immediately pushes the halves apart, but I don't see any springs in the schematic!!! Whats the force that keeps these apart??? With the belt tension removed, should I be able to compress these with my hands? The end cap easily spins on the shaft, but you can't push it back even 1/8 of an inch, to get the recessed c-clip off. Looked a bit behind it with a mirror, there is nothing holding it. No rust, no damage. How do I get this recessed circlip off??? What am I missing here???
 

6brnorma

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 13, 2011
Messages
882
Hi folks, new here, my name is Bo. Have a bobcat 610 that needs some love. Replaced the hydraulic lines, working on the variable sheave. Read all the posts on here, still cant find an answer to how to remove it. I must be missing something... 1) Removed the side cover, disconnected the line to the swivel 2) Removed the small circlip that hold the swivel in, popped out the internal parts 3) There is a large end cap that I just can't get off. It is held by a circlip, which I can see, but its RECESSED into the end cap. It looks like you need to slide the endcap down the shaft, then pop the endcap off. Problem is, you can't side it!!! This looks like a c-clip. It doesnt have ears on it, like the pic in the schematic. I loosened the tension on the belt, and use 2 clamps to squeeze the sheave halves closer together. I got them to move about 1/4 inch, that it. Its like there is a powerful spring that immediately pushes the halves apart, but I don't see any springs in the schematic!!! Whats the force that keeps these apart??? With the belt tension removed, should I be able to compress these with my hands? The end cap easily spins on the shaft, but you can't push it back even 1/8 of an inch, to get the recessed c-clip off. Looked a bit behind it with a mirror, there is nothing holding it. No rust, no damage. How do I get this recessed circlip off??? What am I missing here???
Bo…. if you go to a facebook page "Melroe Bobcat Owners of America" and look in their video section, you can search "Removing Variable speed sheave" and you will find a video that walks you through the process….. To answer your question. You need quite a bit of slack in the belt… I drop a 3/4" socket into the "Driven Sheave" after prying it open. You should have nearly an inch to work with. Moving the 'cap' back on the 'shaft' can be a problem even with the smallest of burrs. I often hold the swivel and tap on the cap with a ballpeen to get it to move back. Don't forget to remove the socket after re-assembly.
 

Bpu699

Member
Joined
Feb 24, 2020
Messages
14
Bo…. if you go to a facebook page "Melroe Bobcat Owners of America" and look in their video section, you can search "Removing Variable speed sheave" and you will find a video that walks you through the process….. To answer your question. You need quite a bit of slack in the belt… I drop a 3/4" socket into the "Driven Sheave" after prying it open. You should have nearly an inch to work with. Moving the 'cap' back on the 'shaft' can be a problem even with the smallest of burrs. I often hold the swivel and tap on the cap with a ballpeen to get it to move back. Don't forget to remove the socket after re-assembly.
Thanks! Will do that...
 

Bpu699

Member
Joined
Feb 24, 2020
Messages
14
Bo…. if you go to a facebook page "Melroe Bobcat Owners of America" and look in their video section, you can search "Removing Variable speed sheave" and you will find a video that walks you through the process….. To answer your question. You need quite a bit of slack in the belt… I drop a 3/4" socket into the "Driven Sheave" after prying it open. You should have nearly an inch to work with. Moving the 'cap' back on the 'shaft' can be a problem even with the smallest of burrs. I often hold the swivel and tap on the cap with a ballpeen to get it to move back. Don't forget to remove the socket after re-assembly.
Well, rebuilt the variable drive. All new o-rings. Cleaned off any burrs to avoid damaging o ring. Reinstalled using pvc pipe as videos suggested. Gland was a bit tough to push through but went it. Pushed piston back and forth, went smoothly, held air pressure when filler hole covered with finger. Put it all together...still no variable drive...but, no leaks whatsoever... Took the supply line off, it's providing plenty of oil, with tons of air bubbles. Clearly I'm sucking air in somewhere. Main hydraulic cylinders chatter and are slow, but work. Tested the psi at the supply line...65 psi whether at idle or full throttle. Clearly it's set for that... Is it possible 65 psi isn't enough to compress the sheave? Is there a way to adjust the psi at the sheave? What's too much? The air leak is killing me, can't find it. When it gets warmer will power wash this thing so I can find/fix all the leaks. There's no active dripping, but it's covered in oily mud in the engine compartment... Vacuum gauge is also missing... figured maybe someone removed it and didn't plug the orifice, but can find any thing like that. Thought about just pressurizing the intake side of the hydraulic system to see where it leaks...
 
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