If you removed the clutches make absolutely sure the inner bearings are still sitting correctly. If not, the outer adjusting nut will barely do up enough to allow the fit the split pin to be inserted, and the lever can get stuck Also look for significant scratch marks on the frame panels behind the clutches, or wear marks on the linkage bar bolts. This can indicate a misaligned bar, due to the clutches being incorrectly adjusted.
I have one of the reverse clutches completely removed from the shaft and the lever when pulled in the full reverse position it moves freely and the lever doesn't get hung up. Though I don't see anything initially wrong with the clutch itself, does that mean it's in the clutch which is causing it to hang up?
Your problem is not in the clutch…….it is in the 'actuating nut' (pt#6540559 and 6540558) and 'thread (pt#6502311 and 6502312) behind the clutch. Refer to the "Service for Drive System" portion of your manual and you will find the instructions for "Full Thread Contact" and adjustments for the entire clutch/drive system. I would guess that 'sticking' handles is caused by mis-alignment of the actuating nut and thread contact about 80 percent of the time.
Yes I saw that portion in the manual. Looking at the clutch shaft on the machine, it appears to be right, but im not sure? I dont see any threads sticking out on the shaft past the actuating nut.
If they didnt get stuck before you removed the clutch, but they do now after reassembly, then its probably something you have done.
I have not done anything to the machine. Both levers stuck in both directions since ive had it. All i did was remove one reverse clutch and notice how the sticking lever stopped, for that one direction. I have not yet reinstalled that clutch, to mess anything up. I do not notice anything wrong though. The castle nuts were fine with plenty of room to get the cotter pins in. The clutch shaft threads appear to be the way the are supposed to be, as I am trying to avoid that tear down as you said.
This is not a complicated mechanism. The theory is simple…..the actuating nut is threaded and when the lever is moved forward (or reverse) it applies pressure to one clutch and releases pressure on the other. The reason it functions smoothly without the clutch is that there is no resistance from the outside castle nut. The tolerances from the actuating nut to the side wall of the machine are fairly tight…….if they are not adjusted properly (or worn and need to be re-adjusted)……..the actuating nut that is having pressure RELEASED will bind against the side wall of the machine causing it to stick. The vast majority of "sticking lever" issues are resolved with proper adjustment. The other options are bad thrust bearings and races (which you stated were good) or possibly the four bearings inside the two pressure plates in each clutch assembly being worn or not located properly. I doubt the latter however, as that generally results in uneven wear of the clutch linings, not binding. Pictures would help. A 'tear down' in my view is unavoidable. Inspect each part for fractures as you tear down as a broken part could certainly result in binding also. Without seeing the machine…….this is the best I can do.
Also…….this has never happened to me but a man once brought me an actuating nut and thread that were so badly worn/damaged that we had to replace them to get his machine operating again. Might look at that.
And…….I have written this so many times, I didn't realize I didn't include it once again in this thread. Be sure you have the HD thrust bearings (31 rollers) and races not the lighter duty (46 rollers) and races in use…….and worse yet……do not mix them in the same assembly.
