Bobcat 600 Variable speed issues

Help Support SkidSteer Forum:

jrad235

Member
Joined
Sep 16, 2018
Messages
6
Hello, I am having trouble re-sealing the variable speed sheave assembly with roto-swivel on my M600. I replaced the seals, but it is still leaking. I bought this with a non-functioning Variable. I'm curious if anyone has pictures of this dis-assembled. I'm thinking someone was in there before and may have removed something crucial. Also, has anyone had issues with the control valve over-pressurizing and blowing seals that way? My understanding is they are designed to hold 500PSI. Thanks for any help and pictures!
 
Just a heads up on this for future reference. The bore (Stationary sheave) has pitting and wear inside that cannot be cleaned up with minor honing, so I will be swapping this to a chain drive.
 
Just a heads up on this for future reference. The bore (Stationary sheave) has pitting and wear inside that cannot be cleaned up with minor honing, so I will be swapping this to a chain drive.
It's a shame you can't clean it up to work properly, even possilby get a sleeve installed to give a fresh sealing surface.
 
It's a shame you can't clean it up to work properly, even possilby get a sleeve installed to give a fresh sealing surface.
Fixing the drive sheave at a single setting (say half way) is easy if you still have the circlip and the groove in the sheave. You just need a bolt and a couple of suitable size washers. Might be worth trying before going to the trouble of a chain.
 
Fixing the drive sheave at a single setting (say half way) is easy if you still have the circlip and the groove in the sheave. You just need a bolt and a couple of suitable size washers. Might be worth trying before going to the trouble of a chain.
Absolutely agree with alchemysa on this one ….. it is much easier to simply use the current setup and make it stationary then to go to the expense and work to switch to chain drive.
 
Absolutely agree with alchemysa on this one ….. it is much easier to simply use the current setup and make it stationary then to go to the expense and work to switch to chain drive.
I just converted a 500 that was given to me to chain, I was surprised that there was slop that the pulley system vibration took off 0.035 the crankshaft how it happened I do not have a clue. but if you go the chain route 2 to 1 is the reduction I used a 15 tooth on the engine a 30 tooth on the jack shaft and I used series 60 heavy chain. and a idler gear for tensioning. seems to work very well. just info.to pass along
 
not sure the order i should unravel my thoughts so bare with me... there is a plug that if you put too thick of a washer under, and crank in too far will apply force to the sheave too quickly, so quickly in fact that it caused mine to start to leak. the sheave should not snap closed! you really just want a gentle application of hydro's to the sheave and it's up to the.... (i'm sorry i forgot all this stuffs real names) there is a spring and ball seat that control the holding force once applied, all this is in the variable speed valve body. it's possible there are some imperfections in the bore in the sheave where the o-rings ride for the actuating piston. check that very closely and I believe they honed that inner surface to make sure it's without flaws. not getting into the chain vs fixed belt debate, (mine is fixed position belt, retaining most stock parts. there is no slippage ever and no doubt it drives better than before malfunctioning). But one thing is for certain. you lose "neutral" so when you crank the engine over, your spinning everything and if the levers are not centered perfectly, mine want's to drive away or it bogs the starter down as basically the starter is driving the machine. also in the winter cranking is slow as it has the extra drag. one last thing and really not a big deal but i never let it warm up unattended now because it could start to drive.
 
Top