New guy with a problem. Doing a rebuild on a 520. Steering is very sensitive and will buck when trying to move in either direction. Linkage had a lot of play as did the foot controls. Rebuilt the foot controls and this works really nice now. Rebuilt some of the steering linkage and now the bucking is worse. I also put on new tires and wonder if this is part of the problem (more traction). It will turn with fewer problems than going in a straight line. It used to be with the bucking I could let go of the control arms and it would stop, Now with linkage tightened up it can keep itself going. Any advice is appreciated.
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Is this a hydrostatic drive machine? or mechanical clutches?
If hydrostatic, it could be the drive motors, i don't know what type it will be running if it was the piston type these will run really rough if you have a worn piston causing un-even operation. I guess even the geroler type could do this too if a roller was worn. It could also simply be damaged seals in the motors.
If hydrostatic, it could be the drive motors, i don't know what type it will be running if it was the piston type these will run really rough if you have a worn piston causing un-even operation. I guess even the geroler type could do this too if a roller was worn. It could also simply be damaged seals in the motors.
It is a Hydrostatic system with Geroller type motors. Is this an easy fix for a guy with a Tool Making background or should I take it to a pro. Any ideas on the cost for rebuilds? I did change the hydro oil and filter, looked clean when I drained it. Could this have any effect. Should I try another drain and fill or am I just stalling and need to do the overhaul? Thanks for your helpIs this a hydrostatic drive machine? or mechanical clutches?
If hydrostatic, it could be the drive motors, i don't know what type it will be running if it was the piston type these will run really rough if you have a worn piston causing un-even operation. I guess even the geroler type could do this too if a roller was worn. It could also simply be damaged seals in the motors.
As long as you can understand how it all goes back together its a job you can do. Keep all the parts clean and you should be ok. A re-conditioned pump will be about 2k, motors are around $500. If its just seals in your motors that will just cost you some time and a seal kit, but i don't know if seals would cause this issue. Shredded seals caused a lack of drive for me and not jerky driving.It is a Hydrostatic system with Geroller type motors. Is this an easy fix for a guy with a Tool Making background or should I take it to a pro. Any ideas on the cost for rebuilds? I did change the hydro oil and filter, looked clean when I drained it. Could this have any effect. Should I try another drain and fill or am I just stalling and need to do the overhaul? Thanks for your help
You changed the oil, how long have you run it since it changed? was it doing this before?
Can you check your steering linkages? they could be loose.
It could also be that you just aren't used to the controls? they can be quite sensitive. I have had a machine that was really touchy, it would throw me around if i moved the stick too quickly.
Tazza, I know what your talking about, it didn't take me long to learn to just let go and not try to correct. It'll calm down real fast.As long as you can understand how it all goes back together its a job you can do. Keep all the parts clean and you should be ok. A re-conditioned pump will be about 2k, motors are around $500. If its just seals in your motors that will just cost you some time and a seal kit, but i don't know if seals would cause this issue. Shredded seals caused a lack of drive for me and not jerky driving.
You changed the oil, how long have you run it since it changed? was it doing this before?
Can you check your steering linkages? they could be loose.
It could also be that you just aren't used to the controls? they can be quite sensitive. I have had a machine that was really touchy, it would throw me around if i moved the stick too quickly.
