Bob Tach roll back

[Stonehands]

Question everyone. How can you get your bobcat to roll back as far as possible? Is there an adjustment. Is it normal for a older machine to just not be able to roll back the bob tach plate as far as it should. If so, is there a fix for that. Only reason I ask is that trying to attach an 811 backhoe to my 863. The mounting brackets are the correct one of the machine and the back hoe. With the boom all the way back, it will not clear the mounting hooks on either side by about a half inch or so. So you cannot bring the back hoe back to clear the mounting hook. Just curious. Tazza had a good suggestion in either pushing the boom back to clear or use the backhoe itself to push back farther to clear the mounting hooks. Only possible down side is that when it is time to take off the attachment, it may be very difficult to the the attachment back again to clear the mounting hooks to take off.

 

[SkidRoe]

About the only thing that I can think of that would prevent your Bobtach from rolling back as far as it could is wear in the pivot pins. The lower pivots and the rod end of the tilt cylinder are notorious wear points.
If you are able to get the BH hooked up by pushing back with the hoe arm, then I would be checking all the Bobtach pivots for excessive wear.
My $0.02 - SR

 

[Stonehands]

About the only thing that I can think of that would prevent your Bobtach from rolling back as far as it could is wear in the pivot pins. The lower pivots and the rod end of the tilt cylinder are notorious wear points.
If you are able to get the BH hooked up by pushing back with the hoe arm, then I would be checking all the Bobtach pivots for excessive wear.
My $0.02 - SR

Great suggestion. Thank you very much

 

[lesgawlik]

Great suggestion. Thank you very much

I faced this problem with a different attachment. I got a set of forks, and using them was difficult. I couldn't carry pallets of block downhill without thinking I was about to lose them. Sometimes it's just not convenient to back down ramps. I just couldn't bring the bobtach back far enough to secure the load. My answer was to get a second set of forks and have a shop cut them apart and weld them back at about a 75* angle. Works great.

 

[farmshop]

I faced this problem with a different attachment. I got a set of forks, and using them was difficult. I couldn't carry pallets of block downhill without thinking I was about to lose them. Sometimes it's just not convenient to back down ramps. I just couldn't bring the bobtach back far enough to secure the load. My answer was to get a second set of forks and have a shop cut them apart and weld them back at about a 75* angle. Works great.

When you roll the bucket back does the cylinder rod go all the way in and how close does the quick attach get to the lift arm. We had a loader that at some point had a little different tilt cylinder that was longer then the original

 

[Tazza]

When you roll the bucket back does the cylinder rod go all the way in and how close does the quick attach get to the lift arm. We had a loader that at some point had a little different tilt cylinder that was longer then the original

I'm suspecting wear too.
I don't know the specs for how close the bobtach plate should retract, but it will be quite close to the lift arms.
I found with using the hos to push back far enough to hook up, removal was easy, do the same, push down to push the mount back and unhook.
I'm sure you will find a way that works for you.

 

[Stonehands]

I'm suspecting wear too.
I don't know the specs for how close the bobtach plate should retract, but it will be quite close to the lift arms.
I found with using the hos to push back far enough to hook up, removal was easy, do the same, push down to push the mount back and unhook.
I'm sure you will find a way that works for you.

Thanks everyone. Correct on the tilt pin on the bobtach. I can push it back and forth almost 3/4 of an inch. Was able to get backhoe on and works sweet. Ordering a new pin and grease seals for the center tilt. Only $65.00 from bobcat dealer. Hoping doing so will tighten up the tilt on the plate.

 

[Stonehands]

When you roll the bucket back does the cylinder rod go all the way in and how close does the quick attach get to the lift arm. We had a loader that at some point had a little different tilt cylinder that was longer then the original

thank you farmshop. yes the tilt cylinder does goes back all the way it appears. The lower tilt pin appears to be pretty sloppy. Ordered a new pin and hope that firms it up and gives me the 1/2 inch I need to not have to use the back hoe itself to push the plate back far enough. Still a great temporary work around but a good suggestion from all of you and thank you. I have a hill on my trail by the barn, that I found by driving half way up it was just enough to get gravity to help out. Still have to wonk it down and that is what I don't like.

 

[farmshop]

thank you farmshop. yes the tilt cylinder does goes back all the way it appears. The lower tilt pin appears to be pretty sloppy. Ordered a new pin and hope that firms it up and gives me the 1/2 inch I need to not have to use the back hoe itself to push the plate back far enough. Still a great temporary work around but a good suggestion from all of you and thank you. I have a hill on my trail by the barn, that I found by driving half way up it was just enough to get gravity to help out. Still have to wonk it down and that is what I don't like.

Might wanna check the lower pivot pins and bushings while you're looking if the tilt is that worn

 

[Stonehands]

Might wanna check the lower pivot pins and bushings while you're looking if the tilt is that worn

thats the plan farmshop. Pins I am told are easy to replace, bushings, not so much. Have been looking into bushing remove and what I have seen so far is leading me to believe its a B**CH. The shop manual does not show a bushing in the lower tilt connection. Just a pin and a couple of oil or grease seals. Am I correct on that?

 

[Tazza]

thats the plan farmshop. Pins I am told are easy to replace, bushings, not so much. Have been looking into bushing remove and what I have seen so far is leading me to believe its a B**CH. The shop manual does not show a bushing in the lower tilt connection. Just a pin and a couple of oil or grease seals. Am I correct on that?

There should be a press in bushing in the lower pivot points on the bobtach.

 

[Stonehands]

There should be a press in bushing in the lower pivot points on the bobtach.

Thank you Tazza. After reviewing multiple methods to remove a bushing, they all seem to center around cutting the inside of the bushing with a torch to drive it out. Any other home made ideas on how to remove the lower bushing on the tilt clynder? Will a recipe saw cut the bushing or is it hardened and not able to be cut that way? I also thought of dry ice in the bushing to freeze it solid and then drive it out. That make any sense. I will try just replacing the pin first to see if that firms it up enough for the tilt to come all the way back. If,however the bushing is also in need of replacement, suggestions or home grown remedies would be helpful. Thank you again.

 

[bobbie-g]

Thank you Tazza. After reviewing multiple methods to remove a bushing, they all seem to center around cutting the inside of the bushing with a torch to drive it out. Any other home made ideas on how to remove the lower bushing on the tilt clynder? Will a recipe saw cut the bushing or is it hardened and not able to be cut that way? I also thought of dry ice in the bushing to freeze it solid and then drive it out. That make any sense. I will try just replacing the pin first to see if that firms it up enough for the tilt to come all the way back. If,however the bushing is also in need of replacement, suggestions or home grown remedies would be helpful. Thank you again.

First, a comment on how far back the top of the Bobtach goes: mine contacts the lift arms at the top, for what it's worth. Now the pins: I haven't messed with the pins on my 863. I believe the two pivot points at the lower corners of the Bobtach are not the same as the smaller Bobcats. On the smaller machines, the pins have a cylindrical section which fits in the Bobtach, along with bushings. Those pins also have a tapered end which fits (no bushing) very snugly inside a corresponding tapered hole in the lift arms. To replace the bushings in the Bobtach with that setup, the local Bobcat tech recommends disassembling the pins on each side, then with the Bobtach laying on the ground, reinserting the pins in the Bobtach and welding them to the bushings. Use a slide hammer to remove the pin/bushing. But, the 863 I believe is different; no taper in the arms. No ideas on that one, but I'd sure be interested in how you make out. The Bobcat tech did say there were no "side slop shims" on the 863. The grease is supposed to keep the Bobtach from moving back and forth. Yeah, right. It doesn't seem to stop mine from moving. Maybe I haven't put the required quart of grease in each side? ---Bobbie-G

 

[Stonehands]

First, a comment on how far back the top of the Bobtach goes: mine contacts the lift arms at the top, for what it's worth. Now the pins: I haven't messed with the pins on my 863. I believe the two pivot points at the lower corners of the Bobtach are not the same as the smaller Bobcats. On the smaller machines, the pins have a cylindrical section which fits in the Bobtach, along with bushings. Those pins also have a tapered end which fits (no bushing) very snugly inside a corresponding tapered hole in the lift arms. To replace the bushings in the Bobtach with that setup, the local Bobcat tech recommends disassembling the pins on each side, then with the Bobtach laying on the ground, reinserting the pins in the Bobtach and welding them to the bushings. Use a slide hammer to remove the pin/bushing. But, the 863 I believe is different; no taper in the arms. No ideas on that one, but I'd sure be interested in how you make out. The Bobcat tech did say there were no "side slop shims" on the 863. The grease is supposed to keep the Bobtach from moving back and forth. Yeah, right. It doesn't seem to stop mine from moving. Maybe I haven't put the required quart of grease in each side? ---Bobbie-G

Thank you Bobbie-G. will keep everyone informed. My lift arms pivot points at the bobtach are not bad. All the other pins on my 863 pretty tight. I grease frequently all pins. The worse on is the tilt cylinder where it attaches to the bobtach plate. With nothing on the plate, you can use your foot and move the plate forward and back almost 3/4 of an inch forward and back. This tilt pin is held inlace with a nut and bolt and is not tapered but a straight pin. Will be easy to pull out. When I replace it with a new pin, if I'm lucky the new pin will be a much tighter fit and I will not have to fool with the bushing. If I have to remove the bushing, as I do not weld or have a cutting torch nor the experience to use it, I will likely go with the "beat the bushing out with the biggest sledge I can find. I have access to dry ice, and though of using a hole saw to cut a plug of dry ice out of a block and put it in place of the pin to see if I can super freeze the bushing and get it to shrink a little. Then find something to use to drive it out from one side. Just a thought however. A little science.

 

[Tazza]

Thank you Bobbie-G. will keep everyone informed. My lift arms pivot points at the bobtach are not bad. All the other pins on my 863 pretty tight. I grease frequently all pins. The worse on is the tilt cylinder where it attaches to the bobtach plate. With nothing on the plate, you can use your foot and move the plate forward and back almost 3/4 of an inch forward and back. This tilt pin is held inlace with a nut and bolt and is not tapered but a straight pin. Will be easy to pull out. When I replace it with a new pin, if I'm lucky the new pin will be a much tighter fit and I will not have to fool with the bushing. If I have to remove the bushing, as I do not weld or have a cutting torch nor the experience to use it, I will likely go with the "beat the bushing out with the biggest sledge I can find. I have access to dry ice, and though of using a hole saw to cut a plug of dry ice out of a block and put it in place of the pin to see if I can super freeze the bushing and get it to shrink a little. Then find something to use to drive it out from one side. Just a thought however. A little science.

The way i have done it is to make up a slide hammer and pull them out. I weld a rod onto the bushing and using a weight make up a crude slide hammer to shock them out.

 

[Stonehands]

The way i have done it is to make up a slide hammer and pull them out. I weld a rod onto the bushing and using a weight make up a crude slide hammer to shock them out.

Good idea

 

[farmshop]

Good idea

If you have a welder you can weld around the inside of the bushing when it cools it shrinks many times a bushing will fall out

 

[Stonehands]

If you have a welder you can weld around the inside of the bushing when it cools it shrinks many times a bushing will fall out

Thank you Farmshop and Tazza for the great ideas and support. As well as the group as a whole. I love this forum. 1. First I will dry fit the new pin and see if that firms up the tilt cylinder enough to firm up connection. Bushing my be good enough and not have to be driven out. If bushing needs to be replaced then: 2. I will try the heating the bushing and then cooling to see is that helps drive it out. 3. I found some carbide/diamond reciprocating blades that I have been told will cut through hardened steel. Tougher than tool steel with hardness ratings in excess of 70. If that works, I try to cut two slices through the bushing and then drive it out. I have these tools on hand. 4. Bring in a friend with a mig welder to weld a bolt onto the bushing and try the dent puller/slide hammer method suggested. I am sure one of these methods or combination of methods and my Irish enthusiasm with a 20# sledge hammer should prevail. If that fails,, then I will hammer down a few Fosters and get medieval on the thing and just go Tasmanian Devil on it. That should do it for sure.

 

[Stonehands]

Thank you Farmshop and Tazza for the great ideas and support. As well as the group as a whole. I love this forum. 1. First I will dry fit the new pin and see if that firms up the tilt cylinder enough to firm up connection. Bushing my be good enough and not have to be driven out. If bushing needs to be replaced then: 2. I will try the heating the bushing and then cooling to see is that helps drive it out. 3. I found some carbide/diamond reciprocating blades that I have been told will cut through hardened steel. Tougher than tool steel with hardness ratings in excess of 70. If that works, I try to cut two slices through the bushing and then drive it out. I have these tools on hand. 4. Bring in a friend with a mig welder to weld a bolt onto the bushing and try the dent puller/slide hammer method suggested. I am sure one of these methods or combination of methods and my Irish enthusiasm with a 20# sledge hammer should prevail. If that fails,, then I will hammer down a few Fosters and get medieval on the thing and just go Tasmanian Devil on it. That should do it for sure.

rainy day so I decided to replace that center tilt pin on the bobtach. Pin came right out no problemo. I heated and cooled the bushing and had a socket the right size so I pounded on it for about an hour or so. It moved a 16th of an inch maybe and I busted up the socket. Went to Lowes and picked up a Diablo Brand Carbide Thick Metal cutting recip blade for my sawzall. In about 5 minutes overall, I was able to cut 2 slots in the bushing and the piece popped out. Then the bushing popped out so fast I didn't see it on the ground. I only deeded to cut one slot as it would have been enough to free up the bushing. This blade is awesome. Never even affected the teeth. Had the new bushing in the freezer and it drove right in. Couldn't get the two small seals on however as they got tore up when I tried to get them in. No play in this pin and bushing now. NONE! Hoping the pins and bushings on the two lower arms will be as easy when I am ready. Thank you everyone for the support and great ideas.