ARE THE ANY NEW HOLLAND MECHANICS OUT THERE?

[cldpond4u]

i`m really not supposed to tell anybody about this but you can remove your foot console in the cab and that will bring you to your hydraulic valve,there are 2 electric lock out solenoids,you can either power them up or remove them and cap off the hole and that will bypass your lock outs,throw the switch in service and the unit will run...****but remember that your are bypassing the lock outs and if you hit your pedal while the engine is running the bucket or boom will move!!!***

Great to know! What's the best way to power them up, or is it easier to take them off?

 

[cldpond4u]

i`m really not supposed to tell anybody about this but you can remove your foot console in the cab and that will bring you to your hydraulic valve,there are 2 electric lock out solenoids,you can either power them up or remove them and cap off the hole and that will bypass your lock outs,throw the switch in service and the unit will run...****but remember that your are bypassing the lock outs and if you hit your pedal while the engine is running the bucket or boom will move!!!***

Charger: Finally got ahold of service dept. at a better dealer. Guy says he thinks the starter issue is the starter relay, and the board is also gone. Maybe something spiked them both? Your thoughts on the starter relay? Also there's 2 relays I find on the firewall. Do u know if it's the one on left or right as I'm at the back of machine facing the fire wall?

 

[Tazza]

Charger: Finally got ahold of service dept. at a better dealer. Guy says he thinks the starter issue is the starter relay, and the board is also gone. Maybe something spiked them both? Your thoughts on the starter relay? Also there's 2 relays I find on the firewall. Do u know if it's the one on left or right as I'm at the back of machine facing the fire wall?

One will most likely be the glow plugs, check where the wires go to confirm.
I doubt a spike could damage a relay, they are not *spike* sensitive but they do wear out in time.
Hope you get it all sorted out.

 

[charger]

One will most likely be the glow plugs, check where the wires go to confirm.
I doubt a spike could damage a relay, they are not *spike* sensitive but they do wear out in time.
Hope you get it all sorted out.

the one on the lh side is your starter relay and the other one is for your glow plug,to me it seems that you have a back feeding problem possibly caused by a faulty ignition switch which causes your starter to stay on after the key is depressed???.now this is just a possibility that you have 2 failures in a row(BOARD AND SWITCH) I STILL SAY TO START WITH THE BOARD! ,AS FOR THE SOLENOIDS,JUST TAKE THEM OUT FOR NOW AND CAP OFF THE HOLES WITH SOMETHING SO THAT JUNK CANT GO INTO THE HOLES,I`VE NEVER HAD A RELAY STAY ON AFTER IT HAS NO POWER TO IT SO I`M SURE IT IS NOT THE RELAY!!

 

[charger]

the one on the lh side is your starter relay and the other one is for your glow plug,to me it seems that you have a back feeding problem possibly caused by a faulty ignition switch which causes your starter to stay on after the key is depressed???.now this is just a possibility that you have 2 failures in a row(BOARD AND SWITCH) I STILL SAY TO START WITH THE BOARD! ,AS FOR THE SOLENOIDS,JUST TAKE THEM OUT FOR NOW AND CAP OFF THE HOLES WITH SOMETHING SO THAT JUNK CANT GO INTO THE HOLES,I`VE NEVER HAD A RELAY STAY ON AFTER IT HAS NO POWER TO IT SO I`M SURE IT IS NOT THE RELAY!!

ALSO BY LOOKING BACK AT ONE OF YOUR PREVIOUS POSTS YOUR GETTING A BEEPING NOISE FROM THE BOARD SO IT IS GETTING POWER TO IT BUT MUST BE SHORTED INTERNALLY AND THIS CAN BE CAUSING A BACKFEEDING WHICH WILL CAUSE YOUR STARTER TO GO ON AFTER YOU RELEASE THE KEY.

 

[charger]

ALSO BY LOOKING BACK AT ONE OF YOUR PREVIOUS POSTS YOUR GETTING A BEEPING NOISE FROM THE BOARD SO IT IS GETTING POWER TO IT BUT MUST BE SHORTED INTERNALLY AND THIS CAN BE CAUSING A BACKFEEDING WHICH WILL CAUSE YOUR STARTER TO GO ON AFTER YOU RELEASE THE KEY.

ALSO WHEN THE UNIT IS IN RUN POSITION AND THE COMPUTER IS BLANK THE ENGINE SHOULD NOT CRANK OVER! THIS MEANS THAT THE COMPUTER IS READING THAT THE SEAT BELT AND SEAT SWITCHES ARE WORKING BUT IS INTERNALL MALFUNCTIONING!

 

[140mower]

the one on the lh side is your starter relay and the other one is for your glow plug,to me it seems that you have a back feeding problem possibly caused by a faulty ignition switch which causes your starter to stay on after the key is depressed???.now this is just a possibility that you have 2 failures in a row(BOARD AND SWITCH) I STILL SAY TO START WITH THE BOARD! ,AS FOR THE SOLENOIDS,JUST TAKE THEM OUT FOR NOW AND CAP OFF THE HOLES WITH SOMETHING SO THAT JUNK CANT GO INTO THE HOLES,I`VE NEVER HAD A RELAY STAY ON AFTER IT HAS NO POWER TO IT SO I`M SURE IT IS NOT THE RELAY!!

I've run across a sticky relay before, moisture and cool temps can cause the points inside to stick. A lot of water in there and cold weather can turn things on unexpectedly too... Things learned the hard way.
I've also seen a bad ground and low battery voltage cause a starter to stick in start mode and just grind away till the battery died several times. As stated earlier carefully check over all of your ground connections. It doesn't take many ohms resistance to get a measurable voltage drop and computers are notoriously voltage sensitive.
Don

 

[charger]

I've run across a sticky relay before, moisture and cool temps can cause the points inside to stick. A lot of water in there and cold weather can turn things on unexpectedly too... Things learned the hard way.
I've also seen a bad ground and low battery voltage cause a starter to stick in start mode and just grind away till the battery died several times. As stated earlier carefully check over all of your ground connections. It doesn't take many ohms resistance to get a measurable voltage drop and computers are notoriously voltage sensitive.
Don

JUST WONDERING IF YOU GOT HER FIXED YET??

 

[cldpond4u]

JUST WONDERING IF YOU GOT HER FIXED YET??

Just got er done. I removed the sellenoids to get r 2 dealer. Just as you said, the board was bad. Also, they replaced the starter relay. $1100.00 to do both. I saw an oil leak under the access plate bolted underneath the rear of machine. I asked them to check it. They say it's the transmission pumps. It's going to cost me another $1500.00 to $3200.00 depending on whether it's seals or internal parts. Hard to believe I have problems like this with only 600 hours on machine. Getting expensive. I'm wondering if it's really the tran pumps? Price seems kind of high.

 

[charger]

Just got er done. I removed the sellenoids to get r 2 dealer. Just as you said, the board was bad. Also, they replaced the starter relay. $1100.00 to do both. I saw an oil leak under the access plate bolted underneath the rear of machine. I asked them to check it. They say it's the transmission pumps. It's going to cost me another $1500.00 to $3200.00 depending on whether it's seals or internal parts. Hard to believe I have problems like this with only 600 hours on machine. Getting expensive. I'm wondering if it's really the tran pumps? Price seems kind of high.

lift the seat up and check the oil in the bell housing,drive it for a while and check it again and see if the level is going down,we had a couple of them leak between the hydrostatic pump and bellhousing (o-ring as a seal) might be that??