A homemade grapple that looks homemade

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Jukinju

Member
Joined
Jun 7, 2012
Messages
13
Some of the stuff the guys on this forum have built are awesome. Here's mine. Not so awesome but it works good, and if I mangle it I won't feel too bad. :) Cost me less than $1000 but I could have done it for about $500 if I'd have shopped around abit. I was at $550 just for the quick attach plate and the hoses. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yaKLmCkSRW8&feature=plcp
 

Tazza

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Staff member
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Dec 7, 2004
Messages
16,837
I replied to your other post, it looks good. Yes, it does look very home made, but it cost you very little.
How well does it do the job?
 

SkidRoe

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 10, 2009
Messages
1,885
Well done!! Great video, definitely put a smile on my face.
Most of my attachments are home made too: more cost effective and way more rewarding than just buying them.
While your design is not what I would call elegant, the clamping force that you are achieving with your cylinder geometry must be just phenomenal!!
Cheers,
SR
 
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J

Jukinju

Member
Joined
Jun 7, 2012
Messages
13
Well done!! Great video, definitely put a smile on my face.
Most of my attachments are home made too: more cost effective and way more rewarding than just buying them.
While your design is not what I would call elegant, the clamping force that you are achieving with your cylinder geometry must be just phenomenal!!
Cheers,
SR
Thanks for the compliment. My next projects are a tree spade, and a auger. I'm not sure that the force from the cylinder is that great. The cylinder is a 12" stroke and the grapple moves about about 4 times the distance. I kinda figured having that much movement would drastically reduce the force. I actually had a 3" bore cylinder but if I sank the teeth too deep into stuff I might do more damage trying to get stuff out of the grapple. So far it works awesome for the job I built it for. Thanks and have a great day !!!
 

SkidRoe

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Joined
Dec 10, 2009
Messages
1,885
Thanks for the compliment. My next projects are a tree spade, and a auger. I'm not sure that the force from the cylinder is that great. The cylinder is a 12" stroke and the grapple moves about about 4 times the distance. I kinda figured having that much movement would drastically reduce the force. I actually had a 3" bore cylinder but if I sank the teeth too deep into stuff I might do more damage trying to get stuff out of the grapple. So far it works awesome for the job I built it for. Thanks and have a great day !!!
4 to 1 is actually pretty good. Mine is more like 6 to 1, and I am using a 2" cylinder. If you need more grunt, add a second cylinder - doesn't look like it would be too hard.
I was going to build an auger too, but they can be tricky. There is a guy on here (renopker) who is building one right now, but he was lucky enough to score a sweet deal on a planetary reduction - and he has a machine shop. I did some research and calculations on a chain reduction drive unit (I would have sooner had a gear reduction), but then found a reasonable deal on a brand new one (bevel gear reduction), so I went with that (if interested, Google Farm Fleet - page 127 in their catalog). I had a big post setting job that I needed to get done, so impatience played a part here, too!! It will eventually pay for itself, but I will have to set a few more posts.
If you can find a 3 point hitch, PTO drive digger on the cheap, this may be your best bet on a home build. It may take some doing to adapt a hydraulic motor, but should give you good results in the end. Surplus Centre has great deals on hydraulic motors, you will need to do some math to size the motor to your machines aux. flow. Most PTO-drive augers have about a 3:1 reduction ratio, so size the motor to turn about 150-180 RPM tops. It is better to turn the auger slower than faster. Mine turns at about 30-40 RPM, which I like.
Happy Building!!
SR
 
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Jukinju

Member
Joined
Jun 7, 2012
Messages
13
4 to 1 is actually pretty good. Mine is more like 6 to 1, and I am using a 2" cylinder. If you need more grunt, add a second cylinder - doesn't look like it would be too hard.
I was going to build an auger too, but they can be tricky. There is a guy on here (renopker) who is building one right now, but he was lucky enough to score a sweet deal on a planetary reduction - and he has a machine shop. I did some research and calculations on a chain reduction drive unit (I would have sooner had a gear reduction), but then found a reasonable deal on a brand new one (bevel gear reduction), so I went with that (if interested, Google Farm Fleet - page 127 in their catalog). I had a big post setting job that I needed to get done, so impatience played a part here, too!! It will eventually pay for itself, but I will have to set a few more posts.
If you can find a 3 point hitch, PTO drive digger on the cheap, this may be your best bet on a home build. It may take some doing to adapt a hydraulic motor, but should give you good results in the end. Surplus Centre has great deals on hydraulic motors, you will need to do some math to size the motor to your machines aux. flow. Most PTO-drive augers have about a 3:1 reduction ratio, so size the motor to turn about 150-180 RPM tops. It is better to turn the auger slower than faster. Mine turns at about 30-40 RPM, which I like.
Happy Building!!
SR
Thanks for the great advice. I see what you mean about the catalog. At $1500 It's hard to justify building your own especially if you have to purchase the hydraulic motor.
 
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