87 CASE 1845C Leaking Engine Coolant / Lift Arm

rickydplt

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Jun 8, 2020
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The coolant is leaking on side where water pump is...I poured a gallon of coolant in radiator, and it immediately drained out along side of engine below water pump area. Couldn't see exact location. Suspect water pump seal or water pump itself. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Additionally, are the bucket hydraulic ARM seals difficult to replace with kit, or should I take to shop and have rebuilt?
 
If it's leaking that fast, i'd suspect a bad pump too, for that fast of a leak, kinda sounds like a bad hose or hole in the casting, you won't know till you look closer.
As for ram seals, if you're mechanically inclined, you can do them on your own. The hardest part is getting the gland nut off (where the rod comes out of) it can be really tight, but generally it will come loose.
 
If it's leaking that fast, i'd suspect a bad pump too, for that fast of a leak, kinda sounds like a bad hose or hole in the casting, you won't know till you look closer.
As for ram seals, if you're mechanically inclined, you can do them on your own. The hardest part is getting the gland nut off (where the rod comes out of) it can be really tight, but generally it will come loose.
Thank you for response. I finally found a video on youtube on how to replace ram seals, I am mechanically inclined and hopefully get to it this weekend. Based on video, the gland nut is 1200 inch lbs torque and putting in one of the seals with special tool is the most difficult tasks.
 
Thank you for response. I finally found a video on youtube on how to replace ram seals, I am mechanically inclined and hopefully get to it this weekend. Based on video, the gland nut is 1200 inch lbs torque and putting in one of the seals with special tool is the most difficult tasks.
I have never torqued a gland when re-installing, i just make sure it's tight. I also make sure when you remove the piston from the rod, that when the nut or bolt goes back on, it is secured with loctite.
As for a special tool, honestly, it's not needed, the seals can be twisted into all different shapes to get into their groove. I usually use a pair of circlip pliers as they have round sides to not damage the seal, i use it to wtist the seal winto a W shape to slide into the gland. Give it all a good coat of oil when putting back together. If you get stuck, look up my profile and send me an email. Seals really aren't too hard to do.
 
I have never torqued a gland when re-installing, i just make sure it's tight. I also make sure when you remove the piston from the rod, that when the nut or bolt goes back on, it is secured with loctite.
As for a special tool, honestly, it's not needed, the seals can be twisted into all different shapes to get into their groove. I usually use a pair of circlip pliers as they have round sides to not damage the seal, i use it to wtist the seal winto a W shape to slide into the gland. Give it all a good coat of oil when putting back together. If you get stuck, look up my profile and send me an email. Seals really aren't too hard to do.
Again, thank you for advise, I will look you up if I have anymore questions.
 

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