Slow hands
Member
- Joined
- May 31, 2022
- Messages
- 6
I just replaced all spool valve seals. Bucket and hoist work fine but will not go foward are back.
Everything worked fine. Just had leak. Was told it would self bleed. I'm on day 3 waitingWhat did it do before you worked on it?
Ok Wayne I will try that. I haven't had this thing long. Iv been fighting hydraulic leaks since I got it but never had this problem before. I appreciate any and all help I can get.My experience has been that "was told" is not always a reliable source.
I claim no expertise- If it was mine, I would block the wheels up off of the ground and try it briefly.
I'm new to all this forum stuff so everyone bare with me. Wayne I will do that and see what happens. Thanks for your helpMy experience has been that "was told" is not always a reliable source.
I claim no expertise- If it was mine, I would block the wheels up off of the ground and try it briefly.
Like said I appreciate all the help I can get. I just wonder if there is a way to prime the pumps. Just a thought.I am just saying what I would do if my 742 (same machine with gasoline engine) had that issue. I am no expert, but seems to me that might purge some air out if the wheels will turn. Those with more knowledge may have other ideas.
Here is a video of the control valve detent balls install. This guy has other great videos also.I have a 743B that was in a light fire I am doing a complete restoration. I am going to reseal the valve body as it got worm also. I have replaced the seals on the front of the valve bodies before but never the rear one on the engine side. I guess there is little balls that shoot out when you remove the caps. Any help on doing this. Any one have a good link to a video. Also what parts do I need, the balls are steel so I assume they need not to be replaced?
Here's another video by the same guy.I have a 743B that was in a light fire I am doing a complete restoration. I am going to reseal the valve body as it got worm also. I have replaced the seals on the front of the valve bodies before but never the rear one on the engine side. I guess there is little balls that shoot out when you remove the caps. Any help on doing this. Any one have a good link to a video. Also what parts do I need, the balls are steel so I assume they need not to be replaced?
I did the same on my 743, had issues after replacing all the seals. thought it was air in the lines, after several days I retraced all my lines and had crossed 2. once I switched them to the correct location everything worked great within minutes of firing up the machine.Everything worked fine. Just had leak. Was told it would self bleed. I'm on day 3 waiting
Thanks for that information . I will give that a try. I have checked everything that I can think of. Hopefully that is the problem.. will let you know what I find.... Thanks againI did the same on my 743, had issues after replacing all the seals. thought it was air in the lines, after several days I retraced all my lines and had crossed 2. once I switched them to the correct location everything worked great within minutes of firing up the machine.
I always try shop.bobcat.com first as a basic price check.As the 734B were the last run on 743 I assume the kit for the rebuild is available after market. I have he valve boots and the quad seals but will need the seals for the caps and maybe the balls? They are steel I have been told? It was in a fire in the engine compartment so I got a new used set of steel lines thinking they wood maybe had burned oil in then and it would be hard to clean. I also have a new seal that goes between the engine and the hydro unit. I there any do and don'ts for replacing it? I got the hook pry bar do we seal the seal with sealer when installing it or just put it in dry? Any suggestions as to where I should buy the parts its getting harder to get OEM bobcat parts more and more!