86 bobcat 743

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foton

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Mar 1, 2018
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if the drive worked well before you opened up the hydro system you have air in it.
 

Wayne440

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Sep 24, 2017
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My experience has been that "was told" is not always a reliable source.

I claim no expertise- If it was mine, I would block the wheels up off of the ground and try it briefly.
 
OP
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S

Slow hands

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My experience has been that "was told" is not always a reliable source.

I claim no expertise- If it was mine, I would block the wheels up off of the ground and try it briefly.
Ok Wayne I will try that. I haven't had this thing long. Iv been fighting hydraulic leaks since I got it but never had this problem before. I appreciate any and all help I can get.
 
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Slow hands

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My experience has been that "was told" is not always a reliable source.

I claim no expertise- If it was mine, I would block the wheels up off of the ground and try it briefly.
I'm new to all this forum stuff so everyone bare with me. Wayne I will do that and see what happens. Thanks for your help
 

Wayne440

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Sep 24, 2017
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I am just saying what I would do if my 742 (same machine with gasoline engine) had that issue. I am no expert, but seems to me that might purge some air out if the wheels will turn. Those with more knowledge may have other ideas.
 
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Slow hands

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I am just saying what I would do if my 742 (same machine with gasoline engine) had that issue. I am no expert, but seems to me that might purge some air out if the wheels will turn. Those with more knowledge may have other ideas.
Like said I appreciate all the help I can get. I just wonder if there is a way to prime the pumps. Just a thought.
 

jp8775

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Dec 24, 2021
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120
I have a 743B that was in a light fire I am doing a complete restoration. I am going to reseal the valve body as it got worm also. I have replaced the seals on the front of the valve bodies before but never the rear one on the engine side. I guess there is little balls that shoot out when you remove the caps. Any help on doing this. Any one have a good link to a video. Also what parts do I need, the balls are steel so I assume they need not to be replaced?
 

brdgbldr

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Jun 1, 2012
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I have a 743B that was in a light fire I am doing a complete restoration. I am going to reseal the valve body as it got worm also. I have replaced the seals on the front of the valve bodies before but never the rear one on the engine side. I guess there is little balls that shoot out when you remove the caps. Any help on doing this. Any one have a good link to a video. Also what parts do I need, the balls are steel so I assume they need not to be replaced?
Here is a video of the control valve detent balls install. This guy has other great videos also.

 

brdgbldr

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Joined
Jun 1, 2012
Messages
1,165
I have a 743B that was in a light fire I am doing a complete restoration. I am going to reseal the valve body as it got worm also. I have replaced the seals on the front of the valve bodies before but never the rear one on the engine side. I guess there is little balls that shoot out when you remove the caps. Any help on doing this. Any one have a good link to a video. Also what parts do I need, the balls are steel so I assume they need not to be replaced?
Here's another video by the same guy.

 

jp8775

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Dec 24, 2021
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120
As the 734B were the last run on 743 I assume the kit for the rebuild is available after market. I have he valve boots and the quad seals but will need the seals for the caps and maybe the balls? They are steel I have been told? It was in a fire in the engine compartment so I got a new used set of steel lines thinking they wood maybe had burned oil in then and it would be hard to clean. I also have a new seal that goes between the engine and the hydro unit. I there any do and don'ts for replacing it? I got the hook pry bar do we seal the seal with sealer when installing it or just put it in dry? Any suggestions as to where I should buy the parts its getting harder to get OEM bobcat parts more and more!
 

Nitro7402

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Aug 20, 2020
Messages
8
Everything worked fine. Just had leak. Was told it would self bleed. I'm on day 3 waiting
I did the same on my 743, had issues after replacing all the seals. thought it was air in the lines, after several days I retraced all my lines and had crossed 2. once I switched them to the correct location everything worked great within minutes of firing up the machine.
 
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Slow hands

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May 31, 2022
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I did the same on my 743, had issues after replacing all the seals. thought it was air in the lines, after several days I retraced all my lines and had crossed 2. once I switched them to the correct location everything worked great within minutes of firing up the machine.
Thanks for that information . I will give that a try. I have checked everything that I can think of. Hopefully that is the problem.. will let you know what I find.... Thanks again
 

koko

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Jan 30, 2022
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76
I'm a little late for this piece of advise but when I removed my valving on my 863 I took lots of pics while I was taking lines off. I helped greatly when I reinstalled! (y)
 

brdgbldr

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Joined
Jun 1, 2012
Messages
1,165
As the 734B were the last run on 743 I assume the kit for the rebuild is available after market. I have he valve boots and the quad seals but will need the seals for the caps and maybe the balls? They are steel I have been told? It was in a fire in the engine compartment so I got a new used set of steel lines thinking they wood maybe had burned oil in then and it would be hard to clean. I also have a new seal that goes between the engine and the hydro unit. I there any do and don'ts for replacing it? I got the hook pry bar do we seal the seal with sealer when installing it or just put it in dry? Any suggestions as to where I should buy the parts its getting harder to get OEM bobcat parts more and more!
I always try shop.bobcat.com first as a basic price check.
You can also just do a search for the part number online, but watch out for foreign and fake sites.
There are a few other companies I like to use also: reliableaftermarketparts.com
allskidsteers.com
loaderpartssource.com
 
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