853 Project

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skidsteer.ca

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Here are a few pics of my 853, in sandblast, and prep for paint
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My son on the big rock, this was all my 773 wanted, needed boy with me for counter weight lol. I'm moving some fill to flaten out the slope of the hill in my shop yard. So I though good time to bury some rocks
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Tazza

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Looking good!
I bet your just itching to give it a top coat, i know i was!
The worst part of all is the preperation.... Especially when the machine hasn't been fully pulled down, you have to mask up everything you don't want painting. That did save me alot of time and effort as generally everyhing i painted was one colour and ALL needed painting.
 

Tazza

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Looking good!
I bet your just itching to give it a top coat, i know i was!
The worst part of all is the preperation.... Especially when the machine hasn't been fully pulled down, you have to mask up everything you don't want painting. That did save me alot of time and effort as generally everyhing i painted was one colour and ALL needed painting.
I forgot to ask, did you do the sand blasting your self or did you pay some one to come out and do it?
I have a small hand held sand blaster which is good for small jobs, but nothing as big as a bobcat. I have seen some that look like an old automotive gas bottle up on its end that they fill with sand, and compress it. I would like to make one of these one day too (add to my list of thing to do).
 

skidsteer.ca

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I forgot to ask, did you do the sand blasting your self or did you pay some one to come out and do it?
I have a small hand held sand blaster which is good for small jobs, but nothing as big as a bobcat. I have seen some that look like an old automotive gas bottle up on its end that they fill with sand, and compress it. I would like to make one of these one day too (add to my list of thing to do).
We did it ourselves. I have a 27 cfm 2 stage compressor on service truck and a 100 lb presurized sand blaster. Now that I have a decent shop compressor we twinned it in as well. (additional 18 cfm) which brought our tank pressure up to 150 psi from @ 100 with just the 27 cfm er. The small parts I took down to the local machine shop and paid $25 to use his glass blasting cabinet. Still it took @ 2000 lbs of sand for the machine, and about 12 hours. This is about the bigest project I'd recomend with a 3mm dia nozzle, it goes kinda slow. But it sure is nice to watch the rust vanish. Cab was basted right clean inside and out and so was the bobtach, as well as all the bare metal on the loader (except underneath) We straighten out any of the minor dings as best we could and its pretty decent. Much better then the 553 with the early style tailgate, those bend so easy, that one was a bear. I've primed and sanded up to 3 coats in some areas and most of the rust pits are gone now. May give it one more yet, shiny paint show imperfections 10 fold. I still have to make the new bosses for the tilt cyl on the bobtach. I took you advice and bought hardened bushing (bearing material, from tympkin bearings) and I'm going to bush it in all 3 places. See if that keeps the hole from stretching out. I also used the tympkin bushings for the lower bobtach pins. They are .250 thick instead of 1/8". as the old lower bushings were as much stretched as wore. I also welded a extra ring around the outside of the lower boss to prevent stretching, since I bored the inside oversized and thinned the wall. I need to get back on it, now that the parts are in but we are planning house addition/renovation starting in 2 weeks, so thats been eating up my time. Ken
 

Tazza

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We did it ourselves. I have a 27 cfm 2 stage compressor on service truck and a 100 lb presurized sand blaster. Now that I have a decent shop compressor we twinned it in as well. (additional 18 cfm) which brought our tank pressure up to 150 psi from @ 100 with just the 27 cfm er. The small parts I took down to the local machine shop and paid $25 to use his glass blasting cabinet. Still it took @ 2000 lbs of sand for the machine, and about 12 hours. This is about the bigest project I'd recomend with a 3mm dia nozzle, it goes kinda slow. But it sure is nice to watch the rust vanish. Cab was basted right clean inside and out and so was the bobtach, as well as all the bare metal on the loader (except underneath) We straighten out any of the minor dings as best we could and its pretty decent. Much better then the 553 with the early style tailgate, those bend so easy, that one was a bear. I've primed and sanded up to 3 coats in some areas and most of the rust pits are gone now. May give it one more yet, shiny paint show imperfections 10 fold. I still have to make the new bosses for the tilt cyl on the bobtach. I took you advice and bought hardened bushing (bearing material, from tympkin bearings) and I'm going to bush it in all 3 places. See if that keeps the hole from stretching out. I also used the tympkin bushings for the lower bobtach pins. They are .250 thick instead of 1/8". as the old lower bushings were as much stretched as wore. I also welded a extra ring around the outside of the lower boss to prevent stretching, since I bored the inside oversized and thinned the wall. I need to get back on it, now that the parts are in but we are planning house addition/renovation starting in 2 weeks, so thats been eating up my time. Ken
Very nice. I think my compressor is rated at all of 13 CFM, its rare to have to stop using air tools and wait for it to catch up.
It does seem to take for ever to sand blast anything, i think the worst part is the media, it gets EVERYWHERE.
 

skidsteer.ca

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Very nice. I think my compressor is rated at all of 13 CFM, its rare to have to stop using air tools and wait for it to catch up.
It does seem to take for ever to sand blast anything, i think the worst part is the media, it gets EVERYWHERE.
Taz
Two hours of the blasting time was spent blowing and vaccuming most of the media out of the machine. I'm sure some will be falling out 10 years from now.
The higher pressure of the second compressor has made the process a little faster. I found much under 80 psi in the blaster, was a waste of sand. At 13 cfm you would have to do alot of waiting for the comp to catch up. I forget the cfm rating on the blaster, but I feel you could safely double it to be satisfied with the performance. I have a couple of pulp trailers I'd like to do, ones 48' and the other 36'. I would not attemp a job this size with a 3mm nozzle. it is just to slow. If I decide to do this, I would be looking to rent a compreesor and a blaster with a much larger nozzle.
Ken
 

Tazza

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Taz
Two hours of the blasting time was spent blowing and vaccuming most of the media out of the machine. I'm sure some will be falling out 10 years from now.
The higher pressure of the second compressor has made the process a little faster. I found much under 80 psi in the blaster, was a waste of sand. At 13 cfm you would have to do alot of waiting for the comp to catch up. I forget the cfm rating on the blaster, but I feel you could safely double it to be satisfied with the performance. I have a couple of pulp trailers I'd like to do, ones 48' and the other 36'. I would not attemp a job this size with a 3mm nozzle. it is just to slow. If I decide to do this, I would be looking to rent a compreesor and a blaster with a much larger nozzle.
Ken
3mm sounds really quite small, but with the air behind it i guess its not *that* small, it will easily drain your compressor reserve tanks in no time. The hand held one i have has about a 5mm hole down the middle of it, which i admit has gotten bigger with use.
As for the sand, i know what you mean there! i did a few parts of my ROPS, the only problem was when i blew it down, i didn't seem to get it all. I painted it all, then attached it to the machine. Swung the cab back and all this sand fell out, i now have blasting sand absolutley everywhere! I attacked it with the air again and there were masses of the stuff that came out. I really should have spent more time cleaning it before i painted.....
It may even be worth a phone call to see how much to get someone to come and do it for you, i hear its not THAT expensive. They have a huge diesel compressor and all the sand and do it in your yard. I really should have done it this way, but i'm happy how it turned out. I still hate paying others to do a job i can do my self.
 

skidsteer.ca

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3mm sounds really quite small, but with the air behind it i guess its not *that* small, it will easily drain your compressor reserve tanks in no time. The hand held one i have has about a 5mm hole down the middle of it, which i admit has gotten bigger with use.
As for the sand, i know what you mean there! i did a few parts of my ROPS, the only problem was when i blew it down, i didn't seem to get it all. I painted it all, then attached it to the machine. Swung the cab back and all this sand fell out, i now have blasting sand absolutley everywhere! I attacked it with the air again and there were masses of the stuff that came out. I really should have spent more time cleaning it before i painted.....
It may even be worth a phone call to see how much to get someone to come and do it for you, i hear its not THAT expensive. They have a huge diesel compressor and all the sand and do it in your yard. I really should have done it this way, but i'm happy how it turned out. I still hate paying others to do a job i can do my self.
Tazza
Yes small nozzels grow quickly. Also with a bigger nozzle you can run a courser media, that hits harder (provided you can keep the pressure up)
I use silica sand because its cheap, @ 5.70 usd a 100 lbs, however I have used a black media, I believe to be crushed slag (like welding slag) and it has sharper edges and does clean faster. But more $$. I actually enjoy sandblasting (despite needing 2 showers to feel clean) , sorta like a fresh coat of paint, it looks much better free of rust. Also makes welding easy. But for those big jobs I would seriously consider hiring it out. I definitely want a blast cabinet someday though for those small items. ie Fouled spark plugs can be reused, over and over if you sand blast them.
Ken
 

Eric

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Tazza
Yes small nozzels grow quickly. Also with a bigger nozzle you can run a courser media, that hits harder (provided you can keep the pressure up)
I use silica sand because its cheap, @ 5.70 usd a 100 lbs, however I have used a black media, I believe to be crushed slag (like welding slag) and it has sharper edges and does clean faster. But more $$. I actually enjoy sandblasting (despite needing 2 showers to feel clean) , sorta like a fresh coat of paint, it looks much better free of rust. Also makes welding easy. But for those big jobs I would seriously consider hiring it out. I definitely want a blast cabinet someday though for those small items. ie Fouled spark plugs can be reused, over and over if you sand blast them.
Ken
Great photos Ken. Im glad to see that you got the hang of posting images. Keep up with the progress reports on your project. Good Luck!
 

Tazza

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Great photos Ken. Im glad to see that you got the hang of posting images. Keep up with the progress reports on your project. Good Luck!
Ken
You MUST be very carefull using silica sand!!!!
You MUST use a venilated respirator as the silica dust is as bad as asbestos, you must use it in an area that the dust will not be enhaled by anyone. A normal respirator is not good enough to filter out the silica particles. Sorry, i can't stress the danger of using silica sand enough.
As for getting the rotten stuff off, i know that all too well. With all the grinding and welding i have been doing i have to wash my hair twice before it even starts to feel clean.
A sand blaster is gold for cleaning spark plugs, i do it all the time.
I use ilmenite as a blasting media. I haven't looked around at different types of media that are available. I know glass beads will be too expensive for me to use once. I'd love to build a blasting cabinet, but no matter how big you make it, it will always be too small.......
 

Tigerotor77W

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Ken
You MUST be very carefull using silica sand!!!!
You MUST use a venilated respirator as the silica dust is as bad as asbestos, you must use it in an area that the dust will not be enhaled by anyone. A normal respirator is not good enough to filter out the silica particles. Sorry, i can't stress the danger of using silica sand enough.
As for getting the rotten stuff off, i know that all too well. With all the grinding and welding i have been doing i have to wash my hair twice before it even starts to feel clean.
A sand blaster is gold for cleaning spark plugs, i do it all the time.
I use ilmenite as a blasting media. I haven't looked around at different types of media that are available. I know glass beads will be too expensive for me to use once. I'd love to build a blasting cabinet, but no matter how big you make it, it will always be too small.......
Nice! Did the 773 handle that rock? (How high did you lift it?)
 

skidsteer.ca

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Nice! Did the 773 handle that rock? (How high did you lift it?)
More like it handled the 773. Lifted it just above the ground. Never tried any higher, and it was definitely light on the back end. I moved it to were I needed. Would have been dicy trying to lift onto a truck counterweight wise, and may not of had the power to lift it that high anyway. Seems to lose some force at mid lift.
853 is all painted now except the small charcoal in cab parts and bobtach, Rims, tailgate and lift arm support got it last nite, Cab and loader on Sunday. Now if I can remember how to put it together... Hmmm. I'll get some pics up soon.
Guess I better go get to it.
Ken
 

skidsteer.ca

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More like it handled the 773. Lifted it just above the ground. Never tried any higher, and it was definitely light on the back end. I moved it to were I needed. Would have been dicy trying to lift onto a truck counterweight wise, and may not of had the power to lift it that high anyway. Seems to lose some force at mid lift.
853 is all painted now except the small charcoal in cab parts and bobtach, Rims, tailgate and lift arm support got it last nite, Cab and loader on Sunday. Now if I can remember how to put it together... Hmmm. I'll get some pics up soon.
Guess I better go get to it.
Ken
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Tazza

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Its looking really really good!
Not long now untill its all back together.
Mine is still a few weeks away from beng finished. I have to do the rear door, the bobtach wedges and finish the wiring.
 

skidsteer.ca

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Its looking really really good!
Not long now untill its all back together.
Mine is still a few weeks away from beng finished. I have to do the rear door, the bobtach wedges and finish the wiring.
Just going to paint small interior panels, seat bar, tube lines up the boom, tilt cyl,
Put on new drive belt today, put cover back over v belts on other end, already replaced water pump and thermostat (100.00 less at Isuzu then Bobcat), New muffler, Grill over rad.
Tilt pedal, seat bar and other misc linkage bushings, rebuilt batt tray, should be ready to assemble interior and replace cab tommorow. Have some wireing to do at key panel. Still have to finish bobtach tilt cyl boss.
Its coming I guess. See I have a oil leak from chain case. There is a dust cap, (like a front wheel bearing on truck uses) that goes on the gear reduction on the side of the chain case. I guess some oil seaped through there after we changed the case oil at fill it right up. Its near the top and likely won't leak much. But I want to get it drip free.
Think we will have close to 160 hours into this buy the time we are done.
Ken
 

Tazza

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Just going to paint small interior panels, seat bar, tube lines up the boom, tilt cyl,
Put on new drive belt today, put cover back over v belts on other end, already replaced water pump and thermostat (100.00 less at Isuzu then Bobcat), New muffler, Grill over rad.
Tilt pedal, seat bar and other misc linkage bushings, rebuilt batt tray, should be ready to assemble interior and replace cab tommorow. Have some wireing to do at key panel. Still have to finish bobtach tilt cyl boss.
Its coming I guess. See I have a oil leak from chain case. There is a dust cap, (like a front wheel bearing on truck uses) that goes on the gear reduction on the side of the chain case. I guess some oil seaped through there after we changed the case oil at fill it right up. Its near the top and likely won't leak much. But I want to get it drip free.
Think we will have close to 160 hours into this buy the time we are done.
Ken
Only 160 hrs? damn, i'd hate to think of the hours i spent on mine...... I spent 2-3 weeks from when i got home from work machining pinns, bushings and bosses, about 4 hrs a night. Plus the many many weekends and the 6 weeks i had off over x-mas.
I really wish i was charging myself by the hr, i'd be ritch!
I know what you mean about keeping it drip free, i want mine like that too. I have some oil leaking but that was my fault, i ran the machine with a bleed line attached and it sprayed oil out behind the fuel and oil tanks, so i can't be sure if its a leak or just residual oil from that stuff up.
I too have found that buying engine parts direct from the manufacturer is by far the best way. I'd hate to think of how much glow plugs were from bobcat, i paid $12 each.
I need to install my seat bar too, i got another machine *sigh* that i'm going to steal the seat bar from as its is really good shape and put my old beaten up one back in the other machine.
How did you go with painting the machine without ripping its guts out? as the *new* one i got i'd like to paint up to sell, but i an NOT going to go to as much trouble as i did for the one i'm still working on. Its in pretty good shape, but the engine isn't soo good, broken con rod and 2 holes in the block.
 

skidsteer.ca

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Only 160 hrs? damn, i'd hate to think of the hours i spent on mine...... I spent 2-3 weeks from when i got home from work machining pinns, bushings and bosses, about 4 hrs a night. Plus the many many weekends and the 6 weeks i had off over x-mas.
I really wish i was charging myself by the hr, i'd be ritch!
I know what you mean about keeping it drip free, i want mine like that too. I have some oil leaking but that was my fault, i ran the machine with a bleed line attached and it sprayed oil out behind the fuel and oil tanks, so i can't be sure if its a leak or just residual oil from that stuff up.
I too have found that buying engine parts direct from the manufacturer is by far the best way. I'd hate to think of how much glow plugs were from bobcat, i paid $12 each.
I need to install my seat bar too, i got another machine *sigh* that i'm going to steal the seat bar from as its is really good shape and put my old beaten up one back in the other machine.
How did you go with painting the machine without ripping its guts out? as the *new* one i got i'd like to paint up to sell, but i an NOT going to go to as much trouble as i did for the one i'm still working on. Its in pretty good shape, but the engine isn't soo good, broken con rod and 2 holes in the block.
We dismantled most of the external parts to allow a complete cleaning and painting. But we did'nt paint the engine bay, inside the tailgate or inside the main frame. Tube lines, quick couplers, rad grill, acess panels came off, the tailgate and loader boom did not. There was overspary in the engine compartment , some hoses etc, from a previous paint job, so I did'nt get excited about the engine.
The inside of the cab had surface rust so the cab and all the removable interial panel and seat base were removed. I also needed to access the main valve for spool seals.
I ultimate goal was to fix the items that where in need of attention. bobtach levers, pins bushing and pivot pins, waterpump, muflfler, spool seals, update to flat couplers, steering shocks, pedal linkages,all fluids and filters.
I want a reliable machine that looked good, its getting new main decals (arms, tailgate, frame towers, no slip steps, but not perfect, After all I intend to use it and rent it, so it will get some new scratches and chips.
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Tigerotor77W

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We dismantled most of the external parts to allow a complete cleaning and painting. But we did'nt paint the engine bay, inside the tailgate or inside the main frame. Tube lines, quick couplers, rad grill, acess panels came off, the tailgate and loader boom did not. There was overspary in the engine compartment , some hoses etc, from a previous paint job, so I did'nt get excited about the engine.
The inside of the cab had surface rust so the cab and all the removable interial panel and seat base were removed. I also needed to access the main valve for spool seals.
I ultimate goal was to fix the items that where in need of attention. bobtach levers, pins bushing and pivot pins, waterpump, muflfler, spool seals, update to flat couplers, steering shocks, pedal linkages,all fluids and filters.
I want a reliable machine that looked good, its getting new main decals (arms, tailgate, frame towers, no slip steps, but not perfect, After all I intend to use it and rent it, so it will get some new scratches and chips.
Nice again -- I bet the 773 is jealous of its clean, white sibling. haha
 

siduramaxde

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Nice again -- I bet the 773 is jealous of its clean, white sibling. haha
I can't believe that you bury those nice rocks with the 773??? Around these parts that rock would probably be worth about $250. People love to put those rocks in their landscape.
 
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