763 F (1996?) Leaking at charge pressure switch

[nobull1]

Just found my light on for the hydraulic oil pressure. Usually this comes on for a 30 seconds or so when it is cold but today it stayed on. I looked back by the filter and the switch is leaking. Just wondering if anyone has had this issue? Are these switches known for leaking or is there something else causing the problem, like a plugged filter. If there is another issue should it be resolved before installing the new switch? All opinions appreciated. Brian

 

[antfarmer2]

I would replace the filter and the switch

 

[Tazza]

I would replace the filter and the switch

I haven't seen one leak on a 763, but they are know to leak on earlier models. If you are concerned, hook up a manual gauge and see what the charge pressure is.
The senders aren't too expensive, the later model ones are.
A new filter is a good idea if you haven't changed it recently. They are meant to be changed every 1,000 hours.

 

[nobull1]

I haven't seen one leak on a 763, but they are know to leak on earlier models. If you are concerned, hook up a manual gauge and see what the charge pressure is.
The senders aren't too expensive, the later model ones are.
A new filter is a good idea if you haven't changed it recently. They are meant to be changed every 1,000 hours.

I had to order a switch so took a few days to get. I installed the switch and all appears fine with the light coming on when cold and slowing going out in the following few minutes. Tonight I noticed a hydraulic leak above the battery. The leak is coming from one of the rubber lines at the crimp that connects to the steel outside line for the aux hydraulics. I never use the aux. hydraulics nor turn the switch on. After disconnecting the line and starting the machine after a few minutes there was a drip every couple of seconds. I suspect it is by-passing at the control valve and leaking at the the hose crimp. As I cannot seem to get the bottom fittings apart "1 1/4 nut on steel line I figure I might as well just disconnect at the control valve and plug the steel line as well as the control valve. The line is easy to get to and I do not use it anyways. The questions are what type and size of plugs will I need if I go this route? The line is 3/4 steel and "1"1/4 nut to loosen at the valve. Another question is could this be related to the pressure switch going bad? Is it possible I have too much pressure some how, or just coincidence? I do not have a gauge to check it with. When the light comes on when cold what does it mean... high pressure? Brian

 

[skinner]

I had to order a switch so took a few days to get. I installed the switch and all appears fine with the light coming on when cold and slowing going out in the following few minutes. Tonight I noticed a hydraulic leak above the battery. The leak is coming from one of the rubber lines at the crimp that connects to the steel outside line for the aux hydraulics. I never use the aux. hydraulics nor turn the switch on. After disconnecting the line and starting the machine after a few minutes there was a drip every couple of seconds. I suspect it is by-passing at the control valve and leaking at the the hose crimp. As I cannot seem to get the bottom fittings apart "1 1/4 nut on steel line I figure I might as well just disconnect at the control valve and plug the steel line as well as the control valve. The line is easy to get to and I do not use it anyways. The questions are what type and size of plugs will I need if I go this route? The line is 3/4 steel and "1"1/4 nut to loosen at the valve. Another question is could this be related to the pressure switch going bad? Is it possible I have too much pressure some how, or just coincidence? I do not have a gauge to check it with. When the light comes on when cold what does it mean... high pressure? Brian

Mine leaked, but havnt owned long. Person I bought it from said it leaked and replaced. As far as I know the light is on when not enough pressure or restriction or cold oil not flowing/restricting, once warms up it all flows nice and has good steady pressure.

 

[Todd v.]

Mine leaked, but havnt owned long. Person I bought it from said it leaked and replaced. As far as I know the light is on when not enough pressure or restriction or cold oil not flowing/restricting, once warms up it all flows nice and has good steady pressure.

Why not just replace the hose and have a properly functioning machine. Not trying to be rude but the hose should be less than 80 bucks even if you buy from the dealer. Also did you change the filter? My low pressure light would come on at startup all the sudden and changing the filter rectified the problem. Trying to save a buck now can cost you big later.

 

[nobull1]

Why not just replace the hose and have a properly functioning machine. Not trying to be rude but the hose should be less than 80 bucks even if you buy from the dealer. Also did you change the filter? My low pressure light would come on at startup all the sudden and changing the filter rectified the problem. Trying to save a buck now can cost you big later.

Todd V: I do not consider your comments rude. The position of the hose caused me problems trying to break loose the fitting. Instead of spending a lot of effort to try and get it loose I just decided to plug the line at the valve body. For me, knowing people in the hose business it would be more like $20.00 for the hose but getting it apart was the issue. In 8 years I have never used the aux. and I cannot see me using it in the next 8 years. If I really need to use the aux. I will just run a hydraulic hose from the steel line at arm to the fitting at the valve body. I did not change the filter but it has only about 300 hours on it. After changing the filter last time the light still came on when cold as it does now since changing the switch. You are correct in changing the filter, but my concern was the last time it was seized on so tight I had to totally destroy the filter to get it off and was nervous of having the same issue again...so I took my chances. The fittings are JIC and there are at least three on the machine #12, 10, 8 and maybe 6 as well. The aux. is a 3/4 line with a "1 1/4 nut = #12 JIC I now have a set of caps and plugs for all sizes on the machine in case of needing to replace a hose on a jobsite. Brian

 

[Todd v.]

Todd V: I do not consider your comments rude. The position of the hose caused me problems trying to break loose the fitting. Instead of spending a lot of effort to try and get it loose I just decided to plug the line at the valve body. For me, knowing people in the hose business it would be more like $20.00 for the hose but getting it apart was the issue. In 8 years I have never used the aux. and I cannot see me using it in the next 8 years. If I really need to use the aux. I will just run a hydraulic hose from the steel line at arm to the fitting at the valve body. I did not change the filter but it has only about 300 hours on it. After changing the filter last time the light still came on when cold as it does now since changing the switch. You are correct in changing the filter, but my concern was the last time it was seized on so tight I had to totally destroy the filter to get it off and was nervous of having the same issue again...so I took my chances. The fittings are JIC and there are at least three on the machine #12, 10, 8 and maybe 6 as well. The aux. is a 3/4 line with a "1 1/4 nut = #12 JIC I now have a set of caps and plugs for all sizes on the machine in case of needing to replace a hose on a jobsite. Brian

I gotcha, I know what you mean about hoses being a pain. I just had to replace the rubber line from the filter to the hydrostatic pump, the pump end was a real joy. Lol