Hello All, I am new to this forum and fairly new to the world of skid steers. I have rented many in the past and am no stranger to running one, but i haven't done much to get my hands dirty working on one. Brief history, I picked up a 753C series Bobcat from the local salvage yard. It is missing the bucket, needs tires badly and there is no starter or battery. The only other things i can find are a disconnected solenoid under the cab and a missing hose on the bucket cylinder. I have downloaded a parts manual and a service manual, so the nearest i can figure the solenoid that is disconnected is the park solenoid. The hose is no big deal, and the tires/bucket are a straight forward purchase. NOW, what i'm having trouble with is the starter. I can't seem to figure out which one i need. According to the service manual there were 2 different ones that could have been in there. I have bobcat part numbers for both 6660797 and 6667587. One is a 12 tooth Delco style and the other is an 11 tooth Denso style. Is the tooth count going to make a difference? Or are they possibly getting away with using different tooth counts by changing the diameter of the gear head? I did give the serial number to Bobcat and after 3 pages of notes and some digging they told me it should have a 6685190 which is 11 tooth denso style that supposedly superseeds the old numbers?! I am so friggin lost now I don't know what to do. Does anyone know of a way to confirm which one I need? Are these starters that specific to year or will any starter for a Kubota V2203E work? Thanks in advance
753C Starter Identification
- Thread starter Broncoguy
- Start date
I thought any starter for the V2203 engine would work.... As you mentioned, hopefully the tooth count was done by adjusting the gear size. The fewer teeth the more torque you have for starting.
When i got a new starter, the dealer never asked me engine details or machine serial number, i was just handed the motor and it worked great.
When i got a new starter, the dealer never asked me engine details or machine serial number, i was just handed the motor and it worked great.
Thanks for the reply. I went to the local rental place today and looked at an S 130 that they had for reference. I am fairly sure now that any of the 11 tooth starters will work for the 2203. The boot patterns all look the same, but the style of starter has changed slightly over the years. We shall see in a few days cause the starter is on the way. Wound up buying it online, they wanted 383.00 at Bobcat West! Couldn't bring myself to pay that much for a starter when I only paid 900 dollars for the whole machine!
Cheap machine! Now to get it up and running
Well today was a good day. Got the missing hose replaced for the bucket cylinder and the new starter showed up! I guess the research paid off cause it was the correct starter the first time! I got the starter bolted in along with the 40 dollar blemish AGM battery and she fired right up!! It smoked for just a bit, but once it ran for a couple minutes it cleared up. The engine sounds pretty good, but I didn't run it long cause I want to change the oil and filters before running it much. It is also pretty low on hydraulic fluid so I will have to wait till Sunday to mess with it some more. Gotta put in my 48 hours to keep the paycheck coming. Maybe I should start a different thread to follow the progress of getting her back up to speed. I for one am a very happy camper at this point though!!!
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Sounds like you got her handled. For reference, I'm pretty sure almost all the different starters used in the past have been superseeded by one starter. There are some models that battery cable is too short for the new starter so that maybe an issues for some. If I remember the TSB about this correctly, tooth count dosn't matter.
7LBSSMALLIE
Well-known member
BCD correct has been sevral changes , some reguired a kit to extend batt cable ( a red box about 3x4 inch) that got tie strapped to starter. only ran into one that got funky was an early model boss. that used second small post for glow signal. other than that cut and dry , NOTE ,, if has adapt plate as in 743, ( spacer plate for depth) be sure to clean all surfaces for ground )
Great news, bob lives again. Good to see it didn't get melted down when it took so little to get going again
Well, I knew it was too good to be true. I added hydraulic fluid today and tested the bucket and drive functions. Everything works good, BUT, there is a serious amount of blow by coming out of the road vent and oil fill tube. I pulled the cap on the valve cover and let it sit on the hole while it was running and it danced around like crazy. After just a few minutes of running I have a paper plate size spot of oil on the ground below the vent. Time for either a rebuild or replacement engine. Not sure which way to go yet? I think most of the problem is in the bottom end, rings most likely worn out. Should I just pull it and slap in a ring and bearing kit? From what i've found a rebuild kit is around 700-1000 dollars or I can source a good running used engine for around 1000. What would you guys do? I'm leaning towards the running used engine route, but what say the Bobcat guru's?
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if it runs, then anything wrong with it can't be TOO serious, i say fix the one you got.
Hard to say, a good runner will set you back about 2k i believe. They are on ebay a fair bit.
It could be bad rings/worn bore. The only real way is to crack it open and measure the bores. You can get oversized pistons and rings, get it bored and you would be pretty well set, but depends on what that will set you back.
If you aren't looking at using the machine a heap, you could probably get away with just adding oil. Keeping an eye out for a good runner to drop in.
How much power does it have? if it's letting that much oil out, i'd suspect it would be really hard to start and not a lot of power.
Forgot to mention, the dancing cap may not be all bad, the pressure does jump around a bit on any engine really. The vent you are talking about is usually plumbed back into the inlet. I'd give it a run and see just how much oil it's using.
Well, it does start pretty easily. It runs ruff for maybe a minute or two and then it smooths out. It actually sounds great at full throttle with little to no smoke at all. Problem is the crankcase vent is blowing like a leaf blower and if you plug it with your thumb it blows the cap outa the oil fill tube. I can't think of anything other than rings or bore wear that could cause that kind of crankcase pressure. I'm not missing anything am I? I don't see how a blown head gasket could cause this? Or could it? I'm leaning towards rebuilding it myself since the fuel system seems to be ok. Could probably get away with rings and bearings but I have a hard time stopping with just that when I have an engine apart.
Forgot to ask something. What are the chances of stuck rings? This thing supposedly sat for close to 2 years before I got it. There is no sign of major oil deposit on the inside of the door where the vent tube ends, which makes me wonder if it was ok when it was parked?
A head crack or gasket wouldn't cause that much blow-by
A stuck ring is always possible, wear is more likely, but you won't know for sure till you get inside and poke around.
I'm with you, i'd pull it down and have a look. You may get away with a new set of rings and a hone. Get the bores measured and see if they are within spec or not.
How many hours are showing on the meter?
7LBSSMALLIE
Well-known member
run comp check, not goining to be in spec, youre main concern is differance between cyls, and differance between wet and dry, could be a valve issue, easily resolved.
Excellent point, a wet test would tell you how the rings are, forgot that one
Some people soak the pots in special oil to get the rings to free up, but i don't think it works very often.
It shows 3500 hours on the meter, not sure if it works or not, haven't run it long enough. I will run a comp test and see what it says. Pretty sure I'm in for a rebuild though. Anybody have a favorite place to get engine rebuild kits other than bobcat? Tryin to avoid the dealer markup, but I don't want to rebuild it again in 2 years cause I used cheap parts. Thanks for all the help so far guys!Excellent point, a wet test would tell you how the rings are, forgot that one
Some people soak the pots in special oil to get the rings to free up, but i don't think it works very often.
There is a place on ebay that do them.
Not sure i'd be worried about the quality, even though they are not genuine, i believe they are still build to the same quality. I used aftermarket parts in a few engines, no issues so far.
When i got my kit, it was 1k, pistons, rings, pins, gaskets all new bearings. The price has naturally gone up since.
