743 starter brace / bracket

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Alan Bechard

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Joined
Jan 20, 2008
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Hi, I have a 743 with the Kubota engine. It has a brace on the back of the starter, it is a peice of angle iron, held to the block with two bolts, and has a round hole cut out off the leg that goes around a round protrusion at the back of the starter. The hole that goes around the starter looks like someone has opened it up with a torch to get more clearance. When I look in my parts manual, the picture looks almost like there is a bushing in that hole, that I am guessing would fit tightly against the back of the starter. I also had a broken lower starter mount bolt. I am guessing that these are all related problems / issues. Could someone with a Kubota 743 (if they are not all that way) please look at that bracket and tell me approximately how much clearance there is between the "bushing" or whatever hole in the bracket, and the round nub sticking out the back of their starter please? I am thinking I need to find a bushing and then weld it into the bracket so it is "tight" Thanks. Alan Bechard
 
Ok, it sounds like someone has made a dodgy bracket for the starter, it may not even be the OEM starter, it may have been all they had on hand that would work.
OK, i am assuming you still have the plate that bolts to the rear of the engine? this should essentially be a plate with about 2" plate welede at the base that the engine mounts pass through to secure it to the chassis. Now, it should have a hole to allow the bendix gear engage the teeth on the ring gear. There was indeed a spacer that was a snug fit held on with 3 bolts through the starter then the spacer and screw into the plate at the back. You need a thickness of this spacer correct? Remember if its not the same starter this will not mean a lot as it depends on how much travel the bendix gear has. The spacer didn't do anything to hold the starter tight though, it was held with the 3 bolts.
I will try to remember to measure the spacer for you tonight.
 
Ok, it sounds like someone has made a dodgy bracket for the starter, it may not even be the OEM starter, it may have been all they had on hand that would work.
OK, i am assuming you still have the plate that bolts to the rear of the engine? this should essentially be a plate with about 2" plate welede at the base that the engine mounts pass through to secure it to the chassis. Now, it should have a hole to allow the bendix gear engage the teeth on the ring gear. There was indeed a spacer that was a snug fit held on with 3 bolts through the starter then the spacer and screw into the plate at the back. You need a thickness of this spacer correct? Remember if its not the same starter this will not mean a lot as it depends on how much travel the bendix gear has. The spacer didn't do anything to hold the starter tight though, it was held with the 3 bolts.
I will try to remember to measure the spacer for you tonight.
The space between the starter and plate is 1 1/2". The block has 3 holes that match the starter and holes in the backing plate.
 
The space between the starter and plate is 1 1/2". The block has 3 holes that match the starter and holes in the backing plate.
Thanks Taz, I must not have explained well enough. The other side of the starter from what you are thinking. It is the correct Delco Remy starter for mine, I have the three bolts mounted in the front, through the large cast spacer. It is on the other side that this bracket sits, which would be the back side (opposite the bendix side) of the starter. It bolts with two bolts too the block, on one leg of the L, and the other slides around the back of the starter. I got my starter rebuilt today. $125 later and it worked well. What position do you have your throttle in when cold starting? The book says half throttle but that seems like a lot too me. Thanks. Al B
 
Thanks Taz, I must not have explained well enough. The other side of the starter from what you are thinking. It is the correct Delco Remy starter for mine, I have the three bolts mounted in the front, through the large cast spacer. It is on the other side that this bracket sits, which would be the back side (opposite the bendix side) of the starter. It bolts with two bolts too the block, on one leg of the L, and the other slides around the back of the starter. I got my starter rebuilt today. $125 later and it worked well. What position do you have your throttle in when cold starting? The book says half throttle but that seems like a lot too me. Thanks. Al B
I have nothing behind the starter bracket.... the end of the starter simply sits through the hole in the bracket, there is no need for support back there. The 3 bolts and spacer hold the starter super tight.
I usually give it just a touch to start, 1/2 throttle is fine you won't hurt anything. The way the engine is governed it gives full throttle till it reaches the idle speed of 800 RPM any way if you just leave it at idle. Without a load you really notice it, at idle it will roar as it starts then quickly drops back to idle.
My cold weather is tame compared to Ken's weather in Canada.... I have never started a machine in sub 0 C temperatures so i really can't give you any good advise on it. All i know is where its really cold people like installing block heaters to take the strain off the engine at startup.
If you can get a picture of the bracket you are talking about i may be able to shed some light on what it actually is. I know mine have never had a bracket on the back of here though.
 
I have nothing behind the starter bracket.... the end of the starter simply sits through the hole in the bracket, there is no need for support back there. The 3 bolts and spacer hold the starter super tight.
I usually give it just a touch to start, 1/2 throttle is fine you won't hurt anything. The way the engine is governed it gives full throttle till it reaches the idle speed of 800 RPM any way if you just leave it at idle. Without a load you really notice it, at idle it will roar as it starts then quickly drops back to idle.
My cold weather is tame compared to Ken's weather in Canada.... I have never started a machine in sub 0 C temperatures so i really can't give you any good advise on it. All i know is where its really cold people like installing block heaters to take the strain off the engine at startup.
If you can get a picture of the bracket you are talking about i may be able to shed some light on what it actually is. I know mine have never had a bracket on the back of here though.
I have a 743 with A LOT of hours on it. Starting in cold weather is tough, but not impossible. I replaced the glow plugs this season. In -30 C (-20F) weather I need to pug in the block heater and battery warmer for a couple hours, turn the glow plugs on for 30 seconds then crank for 10 seconds (I use full throttle). At -30, that will never start it the first time so I repeat as necessary.
HTH
Skippyman
 
I have a 743 with A LOT of hours on it. Starting in cold weather is tough, but not impossible. I replaced the glow plugs this season. In -30 C (-20F) weather I need to pug in the block heater and battery warmer for a couple hours, turn the glow plugs on for 30 seconds then crank for 10 seconds (I use full throttle). At -30, that will never start it the first time so I repeat as necessary.
HTH
Skippyman
30 seconds of glow in those temperatures doesn't seem excessive to me.....
One thing that i found that is handy in cold weather is if you install a seperate glow button. Give it a good glow, then hold the button down and crank, keep it glowing till the engine is running properly and not spluttering. Some modern cars start with glowplugs and keep them running for a few minutes after the engine has started to reduce emmissions.
In the past i have done essentially this, start the engine and its blowing white smoke and runniny really rough, i turn the key quickly to glow, it recovers then switch it back to run. Just that bit of extra heat makes all the difference.
 
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