Greetings. I think I've read ever 743 thread on here and am halfway through the infamous 743 chaincase rebuild. (Awesome info on here to get me this far!) Here's where I'm stuck. I can not seem to get the rear axles to insert into the sprokets. I really dont want to bust the chain apart and have learned that I cant install the chain after. I'm holding the sproket inside the case while another set of hands is pushing and tapping on the hub. It seems to just start to bite on the sproket but wont drive on. I'm scared to really hit it hard in case the splines aren't lined up. Is there anything I can be missing here? Sincerely, the dood with half a 743 in his garage.
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walio123
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It's hard, but achievable, just the way you describe it. You have to make it well positioned and get into it. Try to support the sprockets with some wooden blocks that are appropriate in size because the sprockets is heavy and it is almost impossible to keep it in the right position.
That's brilliant. Thank you. Patience and persistence is all that's left. I'll go round 2.
One down. That's for the advise!
Good news is back end is now done. The blue seals are sticking out of the hub about a 1/16 of an inch and not flush. Should I be concerned? The tire side of the inner seal doesnt appear to be catching the wear sleeve, however, the chaincase side of that inner seal is definitely catching. Thoughts?
walio123
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There is a special tool for the correct positioning of the seal. I think your seal should go in, but I'm not sure. If I have the opportunity, I will check on asome 743 machine and write. Check end play also.It must not exceed 0.103 inc /0,33mm/.If endplay is not corect, replase washer on
walio123
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washer at the sprocket bolt to get the correct end play.
End play is perfect with existing washers.
Ideally the seals should be recessed, but if the wear rings were ok on the axle, sticking out a little should be ok. I think i installed one flush with the tube and it worked just fine.
Good job getting the sprockets on, i have been lucky, as i hung the chaincase in the air, so the sprocket just hung there, much easier.
I replaced all the wear sleeves so that should help. I'm going to leave it and see if it leaks, the front are recessed so that worked out. I'll have to come up with something to drive the rear seals further if needed which may be a challenge. I'll blow that bridge up when it's in front of me. Thanks again for the info from the posters and the forum posters before, couldnt have done it without you cats.
Shoot. Was going to ask opinions. I have to reinstall motor and hydro pump. Should I do motor first and slide pump onto universal or other way around? I've had the engine out before but never both so if one ways easier I'm all ears. Thoughts?
walio123
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With longitudinally dismantled engines and pumps, it has always been easier for me to put the pump first, then the engine. This gives me the opportunity to have a look through the engine compartment while I mount the pump. Then the engine is easily coupling, adjustable with two 50 sm/ 20 inch/ tire pry bars, I almost always do it myself and have no difficulty.
Shes back together. Now I have some adjustments on the steering to take out some creep. I noticed some foam in the site glass and chatter when the boom went up and Down, keeping in mind I had all the hydraulic fluid out of it, I'm assuming this will work it's way out with use?
walio123
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Just lift it all the way and run the boom all the way several times, do the same with the bucket, move the machine up and down a bit, and that should clear the air out of the system. If everything is fine the foam will disappear after a while. Do not forget to check the oil level afterwards, it may drop significantly
Turns out both Jic 90s on the lift arms are leaking. I'm going to say if they leak on boom up they suck air on boom down? They have a nut on them obviously but I cant tell if they are threaded into the actual rams? This has turned into my own 743 master thread I guess.
