741 Bobcat Lift Cylinder Removal and Seal Replacement

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vortechx

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Feb 15, 2007
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I need to replace the seals in the lift cylinder on a 741.I was able to unbolt and remove the pins on the lift cyl. but now i cant get it out of the machine.I cant get it out of the rear of the machine and i cant slide it out of the front of the machine because the boom is in the lowered position.I removed the pin on the other lift cylinder thinking I could manually lift the boom with a hydraulic jack.The boom will not move. Once i am able to remove the cylinder,I figured i will just follow Tazza's post on the 743 tilt cyl seal replacement.Is the seal replacement the same for the lift as is is for the tilt? Any suggewstions on how i can get the lift cyl. out of the machine so i can replace the seal? Thanks in advance guys.
 

Tazza

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Yes, the seal [procedure is the same and i believe the seals are the same too.
Now to get the rotten things out. You need to lift the arms a little to get them out. This model doesn't have lift arm supports so i lift the arms up and put a block of timber between the lift arm and the chain case. See where the two meet? i put it there, 2 nice flat faces, yo don't need much, only say 6" is all you need. Ensure you lay it flat and use multiple pieces if required, but keep them flat, you don't want any chance of them slipping and having the arm fall. With the wood in place you can even use a hydraulic jack under the bucket or bobtach just to ensure it will not drop for any reason!
With the arms up, you can slide the rams out under the lift arms, its that easy! I'd suggest you mark the fittings with a punch so they go on the same way, makes it easier.
Any problems just yell, i did this 2 weeks ago!
 
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vortechx

Member
Joined
Feb 15, 2007
Messages
22
Yes, the seal [procedure is the same and i believe the seals are the same too.
Now to get the rotten things out. You need to lift the arms a little to get them out. This model doesn't have lift arm supports so i lift the arms up and put a block of timber between the lift arm and the chain case. See where the two meet? i put it there, 2 nice flat faces, yo don't need much, only say 6" is all you need. Ensure you lay it flat and use multiple pieces if required, but keep them flat, you don't want any chance of them slipping and having the arm fall. With the wood in place you can even use a hydraulic jack under the bucket or bobtach just to ensure it will not drop for any reason!
With the arms up, you can slide the rams out under the lift arms, its that easy! I'd suggest you mark the fittings with a punch so they go on the same way, makes it easier.
Any problems just yell, i did this 2 weeks ago!
Thanks for your reply Tazza.I got the cylinder out by putting a hydraulic duckbill under the lift arms and sliding the cyl. foward as you suggested.I may now have created a bigger problem.I put the cylinder in a vice and tried to get the end cap off with a pipe wrench and a punch and hammer.No Go.then i applied heat to it and still would not budge. Now,even if i Had a spanner wrench,the holes are so mangled that it would be of no use. Any way i can get this end cap off? Thanks Again
 

Tazza

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Thanks for your reply Tazza.I got the cylinder out by putting a hydraulic duckbill under the lift arms and sliding the cyl. foward as you suggested.I may now have created a bigger problem.I put the cylinder in a vice and tried to get the end cap off with a pipe wrench and a punch and hammer.No Go.then i applied heat to it and still would not budge. Now,even if i Had a spanner wrench,the holes are so mangled that it would be of no use. Any way i can get this end cap off? Thanks Again
The only way is heat and a pipe wrench. I have put a bar through the rear pivot point, get someone to stand on it, this way you won't rip your vice off the bench!
I have had a tilt ram that was so tight that i needed to use an air chistle and LOTS of heat to get it off, i destroyed the gland nut in the process though, you may do the same.
 

skidsteer.ca

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Jan 20, 2006
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3,853
The only way is heat and a pipe wrench. I have put a bar through the rear pivot point, get someone to stand on it, this way you won't rip your vice off the bench!
I have had a tilt ram that was so tight that i needed to use an air chistle and LOTS of heat to get it off, i destroyed the gland nut in the process though, you may do the same.
I have had some success with a chain wrench that wraps all the way around. Has a jaw like a pipe wrench to make it bite at one point. Does less damage then a pipe wrench. I'm just doing the one on my 709 hoe. Fortunately it came easy.
Ken
 

Fishfiles

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Feb 8, 2007
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1,698
I have had some success with a chain wrench that wraps all the way around. Has a jaw like a pipe wrench to make it bite at one point. Does less damage then a pipe wrench. I'm just doing the one on my 709 hoe. Fortunately it came easy.
Ken
Another way in extreme instances is to cut a two sided fork out of a steel plate , in between the two ends of the fork the distance is enough to go around the shaft , then tack weld the fork to the gland nut , you can weld it so that if you get it off by grinding the weld off and save the gland nut , sounds like you need a new one already any ways , after heating it Areokroil sprayed in the crack between the gland nut and the case sometimes helps , have seen a few that don't come out , the machine shop cuts those gland nuts out in the lathe for me and chase the threads then I get a new gland nut
 

Kiwi M610

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Nov 13, 2006
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Another way in extreme instances is to cut a two sided fork out of a steel plate , in between the two ends of the fork the distance is enough to go around the shaft , then tack weld the fork to the gland nut , you can weld it so that if you get it off by grinding the weld off and save the gland nut , sounds like you need a new one already any ways , after heating it Areokroil sprayed in the crack between the gland nut and the case sometimes helps , have seen a few that don't come out , the machine shop cuts those gland nuts out in the lathe for me and chase the threads then I get a new gland nut
Lots of good advice here already, and it sounds like you have the worst case senario. But what I do is run the machine till it is good and warm, chock the boom and then loosen the gland nut before you remove the rams from the machine..........works on a good day:)
 

jander

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Jan 6, 2010
Messages
3
The only way is heat and a pipe wrench. I have put a bar through the rear pivot point, get someone to stand on it, this way you won't rip your vice off the bench!
I have had a tilt ram that was so tight that i needed to use an air chistle and LOTS of heat to get it off, i destroyed the gland nut in the process though, you may do the same.
OK, I have a lift leaking cylinder on a 743B and I understand how to remove the cylinder and gland nut from the machine but I seem to be the only one who has trouble with the pins. I assume they come out to the outside but with the lock bolts removed how are you getting ahold of the pin to pull it out?
 

Tazza

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Dec 7, 2004
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OK, I have a lift leaking cylinder on a 743B and I understand how to remove the cylinder and gland nut from the machine but I seem to be the only one who has trouble with the pins. I assume they come out to the outside but with the lock bolts removed how are you getting ahold of the pin to pull it out?
I knock mine inwards and remove them from the engine bay.
 
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