Jim, one way to do it is find a post by old machinist, click on his name and it will take you to all of his posts here.Have you searched this forum for "manual" ? Old machinist has posted a lot of links to various ones I don't know if he has the one you want follow one of his links and see if it will take you anywhere. There are some sources listed up in the faq section also.
The manuals OM has posted links to did not contain a 73x manual. The 73x series was very close to the 74x series. Same pump and motors. The engines were different though.Jim, one way to do it is find a post by old machinist, click on his name and it will take you to all of his posts here.
Let me know what engine you have and I might be able to find a manual for the engine.The manuals OM has posted links to did not contain a 73x manual. The 73x series was very close to the 74x series. Same pump and motors. The engines were different though.
Hi GuysLet me know what engine you have and I might be able to find a manual for the engine.
If you only need to do axle seals, grab the 743 manual, its exactly the same procedure for both.Hey, Jim. (1st post)... i have a 732 that (hopefully) needs axles seals in the rear. I can't seem to find the manuals either, or, for that matter, a thread that explains removal. After hours of reading this forum, i realize this is probably pretty "basic" for some of you guys, but i need HELP! Could you (or someone) post the section needed for axle removal? It's greatly appreciated!
Ok. i printed out the instructions for the 743 from a previous post. If anyone has pictures of this being done, or if there are pics in the manual, that would be great and i thank you in advance for your time! Taz, am i correct in reading that one should pull the HydroPump AND engine to do axle seals? I'm new to this whole world, but that seems invasive for wheel seals! (definately not doubting anyone, though, just verifying that i read it correctly)If you only need to do axle seals, grab the 743 manual, its exactly the same procedure for both.
There are two ways of doing this..... You can drop the entire chain case out and work on it that way, the other way is to pull the motor and pump for access to the inspection cover. I assume the seals you need to do are the rear ones?Ok. i printed out the instructions for the 743 from a previous post. If anyone has pictures of this being done, or if there are pics in the manual, that would be great and i thank you in advance for your time! Taz, am i correct in reading that one should pull the HydroPump AND engine to do axle seals? I'm new to this whole world, but that seems invasive for wheel seals! (definately not doubting anyone, though, just verifying that i read it correctly)
thank you so much for your time. It has already been a great help.!There are two ways of doing this..... You can drop the entire chain case out and work on it that way, the other way is to pull the motor and pump for access to the inspection cover. I assume the seals you need to do are the rear ones?
Have a look at this post, the chain case was worked on by dropping it out. I think its an excellent idea. http://www.skidsteerforum.com/DesktopDefault.aspx?tabid=54&frmView=ShowPost&PostID=30799
Have a look at it, lots of good info there.
The way i have done it in the past is to remove the chain case too, but the machine was gutted too.
Upon removal of chain case, we've found how to do the front axle seals, so we've decided to do them as well. However, we're wondering how to do the rear ones. There is no removable inspection plate as there is for the front ones. Also, are the exle bolts reverse thread?There are two ways of doing this..... You can drop the entire chain case out and work on it that way, the other way is to pull the motor and pump for access to the inspection cover. I assume the seals you need to do are the rear ones?
Have a look at this post, the chain case was worked on by dropping it out. I think its an excellent idea. http://www.skidsteerforum.com/DesktopDefault.aspx?tabid=54&frmView=ShowPost&PostID=30799
Have a look at it, lots of good info there.
The way i have done it in the past is to remove the chain case too, but the machine was gutted too.
There should be another inspection cover under the hydrostatic pump. This is how you gain access to the rear sprockets. The bolts are standard threads, but they should have loctite on them to hold them tight, thats why they may seem like they are left hand threads. An impact gun will not get them off, unless its HUGE.Upon removal of chain case, we've found how to do the front axle seals, so we've decided to do them as well. However, we're wondering how to do the rear ones. There is no removable inspection plate as there is for the front ones. Also, are the exle bolts reverse thread?
EUREKA!..The angle iron worked like a charm as the entire viewing audience that we've acquired erupted in applause! Thank YOU! Is the inspection plate that you're speaking of directly over the middle of the chain case, exposing the brake discs? If so, this is the only other plate that's on the case. We removed the case without the HydroPump, as, it is still on the machine. This is the plate that will gain us access to the rears, right? Also, what started this whole project was a VERY fast and steady leak from both rear axles near the back side of the tire. We "shadetree" mechanics diagnosed this as axle seals. 1. Is this correct? 2. There is a theory floating around that i may have a bad motor spewing hydro-fluid into the chain case, pressurizing it when it shouldn't be, and that i'll only blow out the NEW seals. Could this be correct in your opinion? Is the chain case supposed to be under pressure? Sorry for the SUPER long post, and thank you for all of your time you give freely to us. It is GREATLY appreciated!There should be another inspection cover under the hydrostatic pump. This is how you gain access to the rear sprockets. The bolts are standard threads, but they should have loctite on them to hold them tight, thats why they may seem like they are left hand threads. An impact gun will not get them off, unless its HUGE.
I found the best way is to get a quality ring spanner for inside the chain case, rotate the axle with a length of angle iron with holes drilled to match the wheel studs, you can get a LOT of force this way. They will be tight and you need to do them back up super tight too.
What was the oil level in the chain case when you opened it up? Was it above the check/fill hole in the front?EUREKA!..The angle iron worked like a charm as the entire viewing audience that we've acquired erupted in applause! Thank YOU! Is the inspection plate that you're speaking of directly over the middle of the chain case, exposing the brake discs? If so, this is the only other plate that's on the case. We removed the case without the HydroPump, as, it is still on the machine. This is the plate that will gain us access to the rears, right? Also, what started this whole project was a VERY fast and steady leak from both rear axles near the back side of the tire. We "shadetree" mechanics diagnosed this as axle seals. 1. Is this correct? 2. There is a theory floating around that i may have a bad motor spewing hydro-fluid into the chain case, pressurizing it when it shouldn't be, and that i'll only blow out the NEW seals. Could this be correct in your opinion? Is the chain case supposed to be under pressure? Sorry for the SUPER long post, and thank you for all of your time you give freely to us. It is GREATLY appreciated!
the oil level was a couple of inches below the check/fill hole. however, before disconnecting the chain case, and loosing oil, and driving it, (and loosing oil) and oil leaking out of the axle seals, it was probably close to level or just below the check/fill hole. That being said, the chain case takes separate oil than the sealed hydrolic system, right? Or when i fill the hydrofluid, it's also filling the chain case.What was the oil level in the chain case when you opened it up? Was it above the check/fill hole in the front?
That was the correct inspection plate.the oil level was a couple of inches below the check/fill hole. however, before disconnecting the chain case, and loosing oil, and driving it, (and loosing oil) and oil leaking out of the axle seals, it was probably close to level or just below the check/fill hole. That being said, the chain case takes separate oil than the sealed hydrolic system, right? Or when i fill the hydrofluid, it's also filling the chain case.
Sorry, i may have failed to mention that i had a motion issue also before we started the project. I had VERY little to no power coming from the right side. I thought this was due to the lack of Hydro fluid and that the seals were so bad, it couldn't develope any pressure. Also, the oil in the chain case looks VERY similar to hydraulilc fluid. I'm wondering, what oil belongs in the chain case. Is it also Hydraulic, or just regular 10W30 or what. I'm pretty convinced it's hydraulic fluid that's in the case now.That was the correct inspection plate.
As for the oil leak, if the oil was slightly below the fill plug, you don't have oil filling the chain case from the motors, its just bad axle seals. If you did, the chain case would be filled to over the fill plug hole.
Pretty much any clean oil will work in the chaincase. Some people use the oil they drain from the hydraulic/hydrostatic system when they change it.Sorry, i may have failed to mention that i had a motion issue also before we started the project. I had VERY little to no power coming from the right side. I thought this was due to the lack of Hydro fluid and that the seals were so bad, it couldn't develope any pressure. Also, the oil in the chain case looks VERY similar to hydraulilc fluid. I'm wondering, what oil belongs in the chain case. Is it also Hydraulic, or just regular 10W30 or what. I'm pretty convinced it's hydraulic fluid that's in the case now.