643 won't move

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jberndt

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Feb 3, 2009
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Hello everyone… I'm almost afraid to ask this question because I know I'm not going to like the answer. I have a 643 that the motor died in. I pulled the motor out to replace it with another one. I pushed the skidsteer around to the garage in back of my house and then moved it several more times with the motor removed. At first the tires just skidded but the second or third time I moved it they rolled ok. I put the new motor back in and all the hydraulics worked OK except the machine won't move forward or backwards. When you move the sticks, the tires act like they want to move but won't. Everything else seems normal. I let it run for about 1 hour and it never would move. Did I destroy something by pushing this skidsteer around? Thanks for any suggestions.
 

skidsteer.ca

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Jan 20, 2006
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Not sure on damage, system should self bleed. Have you tried lifting the wheels off the gound so they don't have to work to turn? May just be a matter of getting oil back in the circuits.
You have shoul have charge pressure if the bucket lifts, but could check for that.
How far did you push it?
Ken
 
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jberndt

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Feb 3, 2009
Messages
14
Not sure on damage, system should self bleed. Have you tried lifting the wheels off the gound so they don't have to work to turn? May just be a matter of getting oil back in the circuits.
You have shoul have charge pressure if the bucket lifts, but could check for that.
How far did you push it?
Ken
I only pushed it about 100 feet about 3 times. Do you think I could have hurt the pump just by pushing it? It worked just fine before I removed the motor. I read an old post about a brass filter that could get plugged. Do oyu think that may be the problem? Thanks for any help.
 

Tazza

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I only pushed it about 100 feet about 3 times. Do you think I could have hurt the pump just by pushing it? It worked just fine before I removed the motor. I read an old post about a brass filter that could get plugged. Do oyu think that may be the problem? Thanks for any help.
The bronze filter usually still lets the machine work but not very well.... It sort of sounds like a relief may be stuck open on the pump. The drive motors should not free wheel when full of oil. When you dragged it, did the wheels just slide along? i know later you said it started to simply spin and roll.
I'd like to think its as simple as a relief or replenishing valve on the pump is stuck open allowing the motors to spin like that. When they are stuck open all the oil will by-pass and not reach the motor. These relief valves will be in the middle section of the pump, i can't remember exactly where though..... Send me an e-mail and i can send you a parts list of the TA1919 pump which I'm assuming yours runs.
 
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jberndt

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Feb 3, 2009
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The bronze filter usually still lets the machine work but not very well.... It sort of sounds like a relief may be stuck open on the pump. The drive motors should not free wheel when full of oil. When you dragged it, did the wheels just slide along? i know later you said it started to simply spin and roll.
I'd like to think its as simple as a relief or replenishing valve on the pump is stuck open allowing the motors to spin like that. When they are stuck open all the oil will by-pass and not reach the motor. These relief valves will be in the middle section of the pump, i can't remember exactly where though..... Send me an e-mail and i can send you a parts list of the TA1919 pump which I'm assuming yours runs.
Initially, the tires just skidded but now it rolls with very little resistance. My email address is [email protected]. I appreciate your help! - Jack
 

sterlclan

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May 1, 2004
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dont know if your machine is like mine .....but there are keyways in the drives on an early 6 series. is it making any noise? the nuts and keys are under the center plate by the brake not too hard to look at just a thought. ........Jeff
 

Tazza

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dont know if your machine is like mine .....but there are keyways in the drives on an early 6 series. is it making any noise? the nuts and keys are under the center plate by the brake not too hard to look at just a thought. ........Jeff
Thats a good point! i remember this came up a few years back. Much easier to check than the relief valves thats for sure.
 
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jberndt

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Feb 3, 2009
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Thats a good point! i remember this came up a few years back. Much easier to check than the relief valves thats for sure.
I will check that as well. I do have one question about the relief valves. It won't move forward or backward, does that mean that all 4 valves might be stuck or damaged? Jack
 

Tazza

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I will check that as well. I do have one question about the relief valves. It won't move forward or backward, does that mean that all 4 valves might be stuck or damaged? Jack
I'm not exactly sure how the relief valves are well *wired* as i always thought there was one for each outlet. I think the chances of all 4 being stuck or damaged is very remote.
I also thought the chances of shearing the key on the drive system if fitted would be un-likley too but it could be.... The thing that makes me think is that BOTH sides are free wheeling. The one test you could do to confirm if the pump is ok is to plug the 2 large hoses to the motors. Start the engine and SLOWLY move the sticks forward, see if the hose twitches or the engine starts to slow down. They do say its not a good idea to do this but there is a relief set to 5,000 PSI to protect the hoses and motors. Don't just throw the lever forward, do it slowly. If you are getting pressure on both sides forwad and reverse it has to be the motors or linkages from the motors to the chains.
Good Luck!
 

sterlclan

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May 1, 2004
Messages
528
I'm not exactly sure how the relief valves are well *wired* as i always thought there was one for each outlet. I think the chances of all 4 being stuck or damaged is very remote.
I also thought the chances of shearing the key on the drive system if fitted would be un-likley too but it could be.... The thing that makes me think is that BOTH sides are free wheeling. The one test you could do to confirm if the pump is ok is to plug the 2 large hoses to the motors. Start the engine and SLOWLY move the sticks forward, see if the hose twitches or the engine starts to slow down. They do say its not a good idea to do this but there is a relief set to 5,000 PSI to protect the hoses and motors. Don't just throw the lever forward, do it slowly. If you are getting pressure on both sides forwad and reverse it has to be the motors or linkages from the motors to the chains.
Good Luck!
If the nuts were loose to begin with shearing the keys is easy trust me I stock them for that reason......Jeff
 
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