642b rough idle

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OldMachinist

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One vacuum hose comes from the piece of cast is on top of the carb, then goes to this valve/cylanoid and then a vacuum hose goes from this part to the intake manifold.
This loader has the Mitsubishi 32hp engine right. I thought I had a service manual for it but it's for the LP gas version so it doesn't show that part. You had the carb apart where does the vacuum line connection go in the carb? Can you tell if the solonoid is working(Does it click with you turn the key)? Also can you just blow right through it?
 
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duhop

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Aug 17, 2008
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This loader has the Mitsubishi 32hp engine right. I thought I had a service manual for it but it's for the LP gas version so it doesn't show that part. You had the carb apart where does the vacuum line connection go in the carb? Can you tell if the solonoid is working(Does it click with you turn the key)? Also can you just blow right through it?
Yes it has that engine. this connects to the very top of the carb then passes thru this and then to the intake manifold. its not really connected the carb but there is a cast iron piece thats on the top of the carb that it is connected to.
 
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duhop

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Yes it has that engine. this connects to the very top of the carb then passes thru this and then to the intake manifold. its not really connected the carb but there is a cast iron piece thats on the top of the carb that it is connected to.
also we took this cylanoid off and connected it to a battery and it is not moving. going to go to the bobcat place today to see what it is...
 
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duhop

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also we took this cylanoid off and connected it to a battery and it is not moving. going to go to the bobcat place today to see what it is...
Ok well this part is the cylanoid that is part of the anti-dieseling kit. it was stuck wide open creating a big vacuum leak, so i checked on the cylanoid and it is 248.00 sooo i bypassed it and it runs better than it ever has. Does anyone see a problem with bypassing it?? thanks again for all your input so far, duane
 

OldMachinist

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Ok well this part is the cylanoid that is part of the anti-dieseling kit. it was stuck wide open creating a big vacuum leak, so i checked on the cylanoid and it is 248.00 sooo i bypassed it and it runs better than it ever has. Does anyone see a problem with bypassing it?? thanks again for all your input so far, duane
It shouldn't hurt anything as long when the engine is hot and you shut it down it doesn't try to continue to run. When they first started leaning out the carbs for emission standards lots of cars would start dieseling when you shut them off so they started shutting off the jets when you turned off the key. Lawn and garden engines have shut off solonoids on them today for the same reason. The best way to prevent it is to let it cool down at idle a little before shutting down.
 

sterlclan

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It shouldn't hurt anything as long when the engine is hot and you shut it down it doesn't try to continue to run. When they first started leaning out the carbs for emission standards lots of cars would start dieseling when you shut them off so they started shutting off the jets when you turned off the key. Lawn and garden engines have shut off solonoids on them today for the same reason. The best way to prevent it is to let it cool down at idle a little before shutting down.
adding a little load while stopping the engine will stop run on as well........
 
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duhop

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adding a little load while stopping the engine will stop run on as well........
So kinda like back in the day if your car "ran on " you would put it in gear then turn it off so the load may help shut it down? This really drove me crazy and want to say THANKS again for all the great info. Duane
 

sterlclan

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So kinda like back in the day if your car "ran on " you would put it in gear then turn it off so the load may help shut it down? This really drove me crazy and want to say THANKS again for all the great info. Duane
just like that...... glad we could help.......
 
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