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bobo

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Hi guys,I have more questions...would anyone be able to give a number off the distributor so that i may try and track down a pointless/electronic system?I suppose that I could take mine out but don't have timing light for the install....help?What is the point gap on this ford eng.My last question is....what are the 2 small valves on the left side in the rear just below the boom arm for?...I opened the lower one and oil came out but the other one,nothing came out.Thanks again BoBo.
 

Tazza

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I don't have info on the dizzy cap or points but the 2 fittings on the left are your aux hydraulic couplings. These are controlled by the right steering lever when you move it from side to side to run attachments like a back hoe attachment.
 

Fishfiles

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I don't have info on the dizzy cap or points but the 2 fittings on the left are your aux hydraulic couplings. These are controlled by the right steering lever when you move it from side to side to run attachments like a back hoe attachment.
The two fittings BoBo mentioned in the rear under the boom sounds to me like he maybe talking about fuel shut off valves , maybe quick couplers for rear stabalizers , I don't think I ever worked on a 632 , seen a few and they seem to be built on the 743 format , how far back do they go , I am thinking more than 35 years
 

skidboy

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The two fittings BoBo mentioned in the rear under the boom sounds to me like he maybe talking about fuel shut off valves , maybe quick couplers for rear stabalizers , I don't think I ever worked on a 632 , seen a few and they seem to be built on the 743 format , how far back do they go , I am thinking more than 35 years
I Think you may be referring to the level taps on the hydraulic oil tank.The oil level should be between the two taps.
 

Tazza

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I Think you may be referring to the level taps on the hydraulic oil tank.The oil level should be between the two taps.
sorry, i didn't read it rite. I believe skidboy has nailed it. My 731 was like this. It was for high and low oil level. The correct tank level is to un-do the top valve and fill till oil just starts to come out, turn the tap off and you are rite. From memory between upper and lower was still classed as being ok. So if you open the lower one and no oil comes out you need to top it up but if oil comes out its within specification. I always kept mine at the upper level.
 

jerry

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sorry, i didn't read it rite. I believe skidboy has nailed it. My 731 was like this. It was for high and low oil level. The correct tank level is to un-do the top valve and fill till oil just starts to come out, turn the tap off and you are rite. From memory between upper and lower was still classed as being ok. So if you open the lower one and no oil comes out you need to top it up but if oil comes out its within specification. I always kept mine at the upper level.
The point gap on the ford engine is.025, initial timing with vacuum advance disconnected is 12 degrees btc, dwell angle with advance connected is 48 to 52 degrees. The two valves are indeed the hyd oil level checks. I am not sure what you need off the dist for numbers. If I recall there is a thread on this site about these engines and they were used in ford fiestas a long time ago. really is no big deal to pull the distributor out and replace if you make reference marks on it so you put it back the same way.
 
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bobo

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The point gap on the ford engine is.025, initial timing with vacuum advance disconnected is 12 degrees btc, dwell angle with advance connected is 48 to 52 degrees. The two valves are indeed the hyd oil level checks. I am not sure what you need off the dist for numbers. If I recall there is a thread on this site about these engines and they were used in ford fiestas a long time ago. really is no big deal to pull the distributor out and replace if you make reference marks on it so you put it back the same way.
Hey thanks guys it dose make sence now,as I was wondering how to check the level.The reason I wanted this distributor number was for a conversion kit to electronic.I found this website, its WWW.pertronix.com.I downloaded a copy for my files for future use.There is probably alot of guys out there like me that just hate those point systems.You guys have been great,so I thought I'd give something back.I was working on the machine today and found a rattle comming from the water pump,upon closer inspection I found the shaft to be sloppy.I don't really want to go to a dealer for obvious reasons.Would any of you guys have a part number that I could cross refference for a good reman pump? Thanks again.BoBo
 

jerry

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Hey thanks guys it dose make sence now,as I was wondering how to check the level.The reason I wanted this distributor number was for a conversion kit to electronic.I found this website, its WWW.pertronix.com.I downloaded a copy for my files for future use.There is probably alot of guys out there like me that just hate those point systems.You guys have been great,so I thought I'd give something back.I was working on the machine today and found a rattle comming from the water pump,upon closer inspection I found the shaft to be sloppy.I don't really want to go to a dealer for obvious reasons.Would any of you guys have a part number that I could cross refference for a good reman pump? Thanks again.BoBo
Is your dealer hard to work with there? The one we go to in Duluth Mn. has been reasonable so far and cheaper on some things than the auto parts places. Ask the dealer for a quote and part number at the same time then you can check with others.
 

skidsteer.ca

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Is your dealer hard to work with there? The one we go to in Duluth Mn. has been reasonable so far and cheaper on some things than the auto parts places. Ask the dealer for a quote and part number at the same time then you can check with others.
I'm not certain, but I believe thes 4 cyl fords are the same as many of the car ones, so the race shops like www.summitracing.com or www.jegs.com etc may be able to set you up with a hei conversion by Accell, Mallory, MSD, many of which are self contained and easy to install, but you will need a timing light.
Ken
 
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bobo

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I'm not certain, but I believe thes 4 cyl fords are the same as many of the car ones, so the race shops like www.summitracing.com or www.jegs.com etc may be able to set you up with a hei conversion by Accell, Mallory, MSD, many of which are self contained and easy to install, but you will need a timing light.
Ken
Can i ask what oil you use in your chain cases?Thanks BoBo
 

skidsteer.ca

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Can i ask what oil you use in your chain cases?Thanks BoBo
Most run 10/30 motor oil, but I thing almost any oil would work in there, atf, gear
It just lubes the roller chains, sprockets and axel bearings
Ken
 

Tazza

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Most run 10/30 motor oil, but I thing almost any oil would work in there, atf, gear
It just lubes the roller chains, sprockets and axel bearings
Ken
Thats all i use, 10W30, 15W40, 20W50 really any engine oil would work. You are only lubricating axle bearings, chains, sprockets and the gear reduction boxes. As long as they have some sort of lubrication you are set.
You really should drain the chain case oil every 1000 hours too, that means drain all the oil, mop the floor of the case with rags to get rid of any sludge then re-fill to the bottom of the plug hole at the front just behind the tilt ram. Not a fun job but usually the oil has water contamination after 1000 hours and needs to be changed.
 

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