575 help

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svon89

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Sep 18, 2009
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I just picked up an older John Deere 575 and it has some problems. I was told the coupling was bad and heeded to be replaced. However, today I pulled the pumps, and the coupling to the first transmission pump is stripped. It also stripped the main shaft on the pump as well. So there are no splines on either to mesh. Both the coupling and the main shaft for the pump are both obsolete. Has anyone repaired these? I would really like to get the machine up and running again, but would also like to do a permanent fix. Any help or suggestions would be great. I have not yet removed the coupling from the engine because there is what appears to be a bell housing that I first have to remove, but I think in order to remove that I have to slide the engine toward the back of the machine. Thanks for any help Stephen
 

skidsteer.ca

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Stephen
I hate to say it, (I really do, a lot of my iron is approaching antique) but you need to sell your machine to the guy who posted above you and put the cash towards a much newer and still relatively cheap skidsteer. Values have plummeted lately and 6 to 8 grand will get you something that has parts availability, is much more versatile and likely will hold its value much better. Dumping 3 or 4 K into a loader that old for new pumps just is not worth it.
Do you know what caused the spline to fail, or could that be a weak spot on that model?
Ken
 

Tazza

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Stephen
I hate to say it, (I really do, a lot of my iron is approaching antique) but you need to sell your machine to the guy who posted above you and put the cash towards a much newer and still relatively cheap skidsteer. Values have plummeted lately and 6 to 8 grand will get you something that has parts availability, is much more versatile and likely will hold its value much better. Dumping 3 or 4 K into a loader that old for new pumps just is not worth it.
Do you know what caused the spline to fail, or could that be a weak spot on that model?
Ken
It would take a lot of force to strip the shaft and coulping....
It depends on a few factors if it can be fixed. Is this shaft a taper and key fit to the main pump shaft? or machined into the shaft? if its machined, you don't have a lot of options. If its a separate part, you *may* be able to get a machine shop to help you out. Some shops will be able to do the job still. cutting splines isn't rocket science, but its a time thing, setting up the mill and indexing head to make the required cuts.
Good luck.
 
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svon89

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Sep 18, 2009
Messages
11
Thanks for the advice, before I put in a long post, can anyone tell me how to put in spaces in between paragraphs? The enter button seems to work on the edit page, but when I preview it is nothing but a run on page. Stephen(I put two enter or return spaces between the period and Stephen, but they run together.)
 

skidsteer.ca

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Messages
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Thanks for the advice, before I put in a long post, can anyone tell me how to put in spaces in between paragraphs? The enter button seems to work on the edit page, but when I preview it is nothing but a run on page. Stephen(I put two enter or return spaces between the period and Stephen, but they run together.)
Go into your "profile" and put a check in "free html editor" and the paragraphs will work. Us mods try to fix things up to if needed.
Ken
 
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svon89

Member
Joined
Sep 18, 2009
Messages
11
Thank you for that help.
I bought this machine from a friend's wife just recently. It is something that I wanted to buy from him and after he was killed in an accident, I decided that I would buy it and get it going again. I will really only use it around the house moving firewood, snow, and some loam here and there. I will probably find other uses for it as well.
So with a stubborn streak, I am going to press on and try to repair the machine.
I am pretty sure why the pump shaft and coupling stripped out. The two bolts that hold the pump to the plate bolted to the bell housing were broken. That combined with the lack of any support on the rear(or maybe front?) of the pumps caused it to droop. I carefully inspected the pump shaft today, and found that the splines are not stripped right off, but rather almost ramped supporting the droop theory. All of the pumps can be turned, not by finger pressure, but with a wrench wrapped in rubber.
If someone could tell me if the pump closest to the engine is considered the front or rear pump, that would be great. The pump shaft for the rear pump is still available, the front is not. The other thing that I have found is that the machine doesn't use the universal joint coupling. I have not yet removed the plate bolted to the bell housing because two of the lowest bolts are blocked by the fuel tank. I am working on figuring out the easiest way to get to those. But looking in through where the pump mounts it appears that the coupling is directly on the flywheel. If that is the case, then according to JDPARTS that flexible coupling is also available????
Thanks to all who are helping out. It is difficult not really knowing a lot about skid steer machines. I can do a lot with engines, older tractors, and just about anything mechanical, so I think that I can get this machine back in operating condition if parts are still available. The other option is a little more complex, but first I have to see what is available.
 

Tazza

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Messages
16,839
Thank you for that help.
I bought this machine from a friend's wife just recently. It is something that I wanted to buy from him and after he was killed in an accident, I decided that I would buy it and get it going again. I will really only use it around the house moving firewood, snow, and some loam here and there. I will probably find other uses for it as well.
So with a stubborn streak, I am going to press on and try to repair the machine.
I am pretty sure why the pump shaft and coupling stripped out. The two bolts that hold the pump to the plate bolted to the bell housing were broken. That combined with the lack of any support on the rear(or maybe front?) of the pumps caused it to droop. I carefully inspected the pump shaft today, and found that the splines are not stripped right off, but rather almost ramped supporting the droop theory. All of the pumps can be turned, not by finger pressure, but with a wrench wrapped in rubber.
If someone could tell me if the pump closest to the engine is considered the front or rear pump, that would be great. The pump shaft for the rear pump is still available, the front is not. The other thing that I have found is that the machine doesn't use the universal joint coupling. I have not yet removed the plate bolted to the bell housing because two of the lowest bolts are blocked by the fuel tank. I am working on figuring out the easiest way to get to those. But looking in through where the pump mounts it appears that the coupling is directly on the flywheel. If that is the case, then according to JDPARTS that flexible coupling is also available????
Thanks to all who are helping out. It is difficult not really knowing a lot about skid steer machines. I can do a lot with engines, older tractors, and just about anything mechanical, so I think that I can get this machine back in operating condition if parts are still available. The other option is a little more complex, but first I have to see what is available.
I would call the pump closest to the engine the rear pump. As you stated they show this item as ebing available still i would suspect its the one. The front shaft will be inside the pump sections and would be very rare for it to go. The one with the splines would be far more prone to failure as it runs a seal to hold the charge pressure inside. Where it runs it will eventually wear and leak, so it makes sense this item would be more available as its essitnailly a "wear item" The internal front shaft would only break if the hydraulic pump broke internally and locked up (assuming it has a pump setup like that).
I would start by getting a parts break down and confirm its the correct shaft.
I hope that helps.
 

skidsteer.ca

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Messages
3,853
I would call the pump closest to the engine the rear pump. As you stated they show this item as ebing available still i would suspect its the one. The front shaft will be inside the pump sections and would be very rare for it to go. The one with the splines would be far more prone to failure as it runs a seal to hold the charge pressure inside. Where it runs it will eventually wear and leak, so it makes sense this item would be more available as its essitnailly a "wear item" The internal front shaft would only break if the hydraulic pump broke internally and locked up (assuming it has a pump setup like that).
I would start by getting a parts break down and confirm its the correct shaft.
I hope that helps.
Skidsteers are pretty basic machines. A engine drive 3 pumps, one for the left wheels, one for the right wheels and the final one (farthest from the engine) for the loader cylinders and aux hyd (3rd valve) if equiped.
The 2 wheels on each side have their own orbit motor to turn them and are usually linked together by a #80 or so roller chain going to the front and rear axel of that side from the motor that is located between them.
Yours does not really need any major problem solved that s going to be tough to troubleshoot, it is just a matter of finding and changing the worn part(s)
Also is this Deere made by New Holland? If so it will have a sister loader that may share the some parts under that brand.
Here is a link to a New Holland LS 160 and 170 manual http://www.mediafire.com/?ov9zqt7xwtl Yes it is diferent then yours, but it works of the exact same principles. So read up in your spare time.
Ken
 
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svon89

Member
Joined
Sep 18, 2009
Messages
11
Skidsteers are pretty basic machines. A engine drive 3 pumps, one for the left wheels, one for the right wheels and the final one (farthest from the engine) for the loader cylinders and aux hyd (3rd valve) if equiped.
The 2 wheels on each side have their own orbit motor to turn them and are usually linked together by a #80 or so roller chain going to the front and rear axel of that side from the motor that is located between them.
Yours does not really need any major problem solved that s going to be tough to troubleshoot, it is just a matter of finding and changing the worn part(s)
Also is this Deere made by New Holland? If so it will have a sister loader that may share the some parts under that brand.
Here is a link to a New Holland LS 160 and 170 manual http://www.mediafire.com/?ov9zqt7xwtl Yes it is diferent then yours, but it works of the exact same principles. So read up in your spare time.
Ken
Ken, Thanks for that info. Yes I believe that my machine was built by New Holland. I am going to do some reading and then start collecting the parts I need to repair this machine. It would be nice to have something that I could use around the house.
 

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