332 won't fire

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jklingel

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Feb 8, 2008
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It was running fine last night, but today it won't even kick. It cranks hard, but that is it. So, I replaced both fuel filters, filling the new one before I installed it, then primed it w/ the hand pump (top of filter housing) until fuel leaked out. I replaced the inline filter, too, then the outer air filter just for kicks. It still cranks hard, but won't fire one iota. Pumping the hand pump will squirt fuel out toward the back, so fuel is apparently in the main filter. However, I don't know if new fuel is REPLACING what I pump out. I can not get any fuel to flow by removing either hose from the inline filter and cranking the engine; I would think one side should be pumping fuel out. I think I replaced the inline filter in the right direction... think. Should I start opening lines to see if the fuel pump is working? Which one first? I can't see where TH they go deep inside, and the "manual" I bought from JD says zip about the fuel lines. Maybe I bought the wrong one, but it IS a Repair Tech Manual. Any ideas are appreciated. thanks. john
 
I would start with the fuel shut off solenoid. If it is not pulling back, no fuel will get the the injectors.
If you crank the engine and give it a quick shot of WD40 in the air cleaner, see if it gives a pop. But do it while cranking, not a shot then crank.
 
I would start with the fuel shut off solenoid. If it is not pulling back, no fuel will get the the injectors.
If you crank the engine and give it a quick shot of WD40 in the air cleaner, see if it gives a pop. But do it while cranking, not a shot then crank.
Sorry, i didn't explain the WD40 bit as well as i should. This essentially gives it a little fuel, so if it pops, it is a fuel delivery issue. If it doesn't, you may have another problem.
 
Sorry, i didn't explain the WD40 bit as well as i should. This essentially gives it a little fuel, so if it pops, it is a fuel delivery issue. If it doesn't, you may have another problem.
Check the engine oil level to make sure it is not overfilled. The 5030 had unit injector pump problems. That said they still normally ran. Also there is a check level on the back of the head that goes bad. If it fails, the transfer pump can't built pressure to get fuel to the injector pumps. What do mean it turns over hard? Slow? Maybe the aux are stuck on and deadheading. Never saw a Deere do it, but it would be poosible.
 
Check the engine oil level to make sure it is not overfilled. The 5030 had unit injector pump problems. That said they still normally ran. Also there is a check level on the back of the head that goes bad. If it fails, the transfer pump can't built pressure to get fuel to the injector pumps. What do mean it turns over hard? Slow? Maybe the aux are stuck on and deadheading. Never saw a Deere do it, but it would be poosible.
OK, and thanks for the suggestions. I never thought of using WD40; I sure was not going to use starting fluid! I may have some digging to do, it sounds. There are a few suggestions there that are new to me. I'll start with the most accessible/familiar. What I meant by "cranking hard" is that it turns over real well.
 
OK, and thanks for the suggestions. I never thought of using WD40; I sure was not going to use starting fluid! I may have some digging to do, it sounds. There are a few suggestions there that are new to me. I'll start with the most accessible/familiar. What I meant by "cranking hard" is that it turns over real well.
Got it. I spoke w/ a JD tech this morning, ready w/ all the above suggestions. When I was telling him the situation, I mentioned a leaking fuel line. "Stop right there. Replace that line if you even think it is leaking. If those things suck one iota of air, they will not fire. Also, make sure the governor running solenoid (if I recall) goes "clunk" when you turn on the key. Then, prime that sucker till you are sick of it, then try to start; repeat ad nauseum. You'll think your battery will go flat and you'll swear at the machine." Turns out he was right on, and also about the fuel lines (replaced 5 or 6) being a capital B to replace. If you have hands the size of a 6 yr old and two wrists on one arm, you'll be OK. Otherwise, prepare to work at it; a couple are really buried. I pumped the primer knob (on top of the fuel filter) at least 300 times AFTER I quit hearing air gurgle in the fuel tank while priming. God it was torture, and I was ready to quit when I asked my wife to help for a second. I primed while she cranked it over, and it coughed. Shortly thereafter, it fired. Another first-time, learning experience. I am writing down all the above suggestions, too. Thanks. john
 
Got it. I spoke w/ a JD tech this morning, ready w/ all the above suggestions. When I was telling him the situation, I mentioned a leaking fuel line. "Stop right there. Replace that line if you even think it is leaking. If those things suck one iota of air, they will not fire. Also, make sure the governor running solenoid (if I recall) goes "clunk" when you turn on the key. Then, prime that sucker till you are sick of it, then try to start; repeat ad nauseum. You'll think your battery will go flat and you'll swear at the machine." Turns out he was right on, and also about the fuel lines (replaced 5 or 6) being a capital B to replace. If you have hands the size of a 6 yr old and two wrists on one arm, you'll be OK. Otherwise, prepare to work at it; a couple are really buried. I pumped the primer knob (on top of the fuel filter) at least 300 times AFTER I quit hearing air gurgle in the fuel tank while priming. God it was torture, and I was ready to quit when I asked my wife to help for a second. I primed while she cranked it over, and it coughed. Shortly thereafter, it fired. Another first-time, learning experience. I am writing down all the above suggestions, too. Thanks. john
Great news. Diesels can be a real pain when the loose prime. Just one small pocket can cause all these issues. These are the times electric lift pumps are great. Turn the key, open a bleed screw and it pumps the air out.
 
Great news. Diesels can be a real pain when the loose prime. Just one small pocket can cause all these issues. These are the times electric lift pumps are great. Turn the key, open a bleed screw and it pumps the air out.
I don't remember those being apain to bleed, there is nothing to crack, just pump it up and go. Huh. Now 4045 and 6068, those can be more stubborn then a mule.
 
I don't remember those being apain to bleed, there is nothing to crack, just pump it up and go. Huh. Now 4045 and 6068, those can be more stubborn then a mule.
I have changed 1 or 2 main fuel filters and 3 or 4 in-line filters on this machine, and never have I had to do much priming. I always fill the filter before I install it, then prime a while; nothing like the 300 or so pumps I gave this hummer. Maybe having removed all 5 fuel lines (11' of hose) had something to do w/ it. Dunno. But I damn near gave up on the priming deal and started looking at the fuel pump and the other things suggested above. Live and learn.
 
I have changed 1 or 2 main fuel filters and 3 or 4 in-line filters on this machine, and never have I had to do much priming. I always fill the filter before I install it, then prime a while; nothing like the 300 or so pumps I gave this hummer. Maybe having removed all 5 fuel lines (11' of hose) had something to do w/ it. Dunno. But I damn near gave up on the priming deal and started looking at the fuel pump and the other things suggested above. Live and learn.
John
Well good to hear you got it going, plus one for Kubota there JD, I though the new JD where supposed to self bleed, but maybe opening them up gets air in the wrong place. Nothing worse then a diesel with a air leak in the fuel sytem, wear your starter and patience out for nothing.
A mechainc friend of mine always liked to submerge the fuel return line in a bucket of fuel when he got them running and look for any air bubbles comeing out. If they are spitting air out you still have a problem and you better keep working on it until the fuel being returned is solid fuel.
 
John
Well good to hear you got it going, plus one for Kubota there JD, I though the new JD where supposed to self bleed, but maybe opening them up gets air in the wrong place. Nothing worse then a diesel with a air leak in the fuel sytem, wear your starter and patience out for nothing.
A mechainc friend of mine always liked to submerge the fuel return line in a bucket of fuel when he got them running and look for any air bubbles comeing out. If they are spitting air out you still have a problem and you better keep working on it until the fuel being returned is solid fuel.
Ah. I never thought of filling up the fuel lines, too. Good idea. The less pumping, the less wear on battery, starter, and patience. It may be a nice customization to install something like the self-bleeding valves you install in baseboard heating lines, plus an electric lift pump. You can bet I will fill everything I can next time.
 
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