1999 773 starting problems error code?

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jimemco

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Feb 3, 2015
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Hi all; I'm new to this forum and have enjoyed past posts,etc.,and now I need help! I have a 1999 BC 773 with a Kub v-2203 engine,about 1300 hours on it. It sat outside for about a month in the cold (Ohio) weather. Went to start it and Batt was dead. Removed batt,charged and put back in few days later. Started right up as normal. After un-freezing from the ground,I put bc inside heated bldg to thaw out frozen components such as throttle cable,etc. few days later I took it outside to push a little snow around. 10 minutes into the operation bc died just suddenly as if fuel supply was cut off instantly. Re-started it and it happened again after a minute,then re-started and same thing again. Got out to re-check battery and sure enough the positive terminal was so loose it just lifted right off of the post. That (I thought) explained the sudden die-out when restarting and attempting to move it. So, I removed,cleaned and re-tightened both terminals and confirmed that the battery is fully charged and tried to start it. This time,however as soon as I turned the ign key to the "on" position,all lights and indicators on the overhead electronic panels,as well as the beeper alarm sounded and blinked every second and will not stop even when removing the ign key ! The "hours" readout display also flashes with all of the numbers flashing 888888's. I went over everything today again including all of the grounding points from the negative side and all of the positive connections. I literally removed and cleaned where necessary all contact areas,(which were pretty clean and corrosion free anyway). I also checked the 100amp fuse that is the first stop on the positive side from the battery and it was fine (continuity check). So I need help!!This thing quit on me in the middle of my driveway. If anyone can suggest something else,I'm all ears and would really appreciate it. Thanks much.
 
Try a different battery, my guess is the battery has a bad cell. Bad cells can be really trow a guy since if checked with a simple volt meter, they will show good voltage. Apply any load and they drop like a rock. Once the load is removed, they bonce right back. Your problem is voltage to the controller. It works between 9 and 16 volts. Above or below, it goes into protective shut down. The dash freaking out is a clear sign of this. I would check fuses for ***** and giggles too. Also if you have a 7 pin attachment harness, unplug it back by the battery.
 
Try a different battery, my guess is the battery has a bad cell. Bad cells can be really trow a guy since if checked with a simple volt meter, they will show good voltage. Apply any load and they drop like a rock. Once the load is removed, they bonce right back. Your problem is voltage to the controller. It works between 9 and 16 volts. Above or below, it goes into protective shut down. The dash freaking out is a clear sign of this. I would check fuses for ***** and giggles too. Also if you have a 7 pin attachment harness, unplug it back by the battery.
thanks,BobcatDan,I will try what you said and it makes perfect sense. Will post later and let you know. Thanks again ! Jim
 
thanks,BobcatDan,I will try what you said and it makes perfect sense. Will post later and let you know. Thanks again ! Jim
Well, here I am again. I tried the suggestions from BobcatDan (thanks again,Dan) but that apparently wasn't the problem. I put a new Battery in the 773 that I had just purchased for my Truck and I still realized the same problems. I removed the overhead panel to access and remove the ign switch for a bench test and all turned out just fine,so I reinstalled the switch. I decided to "hotwire thw 773 by manually opening the fuel shut-off solenoid,hot-wiring the glow-plugs for 12 seconds and jumping over the starter solenoid. Got the engine to run,(it runs great) but then was faced with the dilemma of how to "unlock" the hydraulics override switch since I don't know where/what wiring is involved there. As we all know,the Bobcat wont move until or unless the little green button is pushed with the armrest down! So,all you BC efficionados out there,please tell me where I can access this info without having access to a shop/service manual. I gotta get this thing out of the driveway and into my heated shop,which is only 50 feet from the site of the breakdown. :( ! 1999 BC 773. Thanks,Jim
 
Well, here I am again. I tried the suggestions from BobcatDan (thanks again,Dan) but that apparently wasn't the problem. I put a new Battery in the 773 that I had just purchased for my Truck and I still realized the same problems. I removed the overhead panel to access and remove the ign switch for a bench test and all turned out just fine,so I reinstalled the switch. I decided to "hotwire thw 773 by manually opening the fuel shut-off solenoid,hot-wiring the glow-plugs for 12 seconds and jumping over the starter solenoid. Got the engine to run,(it runs great) but then was faced with the dilemma of how to "unlock" the hydraulics override switch since I don't know where/what wiring is involved there. As we all know,the Bobcat wont move until or unless the little green button is pushed with the armrest down! So,all you BC efficionados out there,please tell me where I can access this info without having access to a shop/service manual. I gotta get this thing out of the driveway and into my heated shop,which is only 50 feet from the site of the breakdown. :( ! 1999 BC 773. Thanks,Jim
I forgot to add that I did remove fuse cover and pull and check all of the mini fuses,which were good,as well as remove and visually check the 6 or so relays also. I know you can rarely tell if a relay is bad,just short of seeing it burnt up,which is rare,but I wanted to take them out and check for pin corrosion and overheating as a start. Don't even want to replace those ($) to just guess if one may be bad. As is usual with relays,they all say that there's no real way to test them on a bench,(which I dont believe) but none-the-less here I am. Thanks
 
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I forgot to add that I did remove fuse cover and pull and check all of the mini fuses,which were good,as well as remove and visually check the 6 or so relays also. I know you can rarely tell if a relay is bad,just short of seeing it burnt up,which is rare,but I wanted to take them out and check for pin corrosion and overheating as a start. Don't even want to replace those ($) to just guess if one may be bad. As is usual with relays,they all say that there's no real way to test them on a bench,(which I dont believe) but none-the-less here I am. Thanks
I'd make sure all of your connections are tight then try swapping the relays around. I had a problem on a S250 similar to what you are having and it ended up being a relay but I don't recall which one.
 
I'd make sure all of your connections are tight then try swapping the relays around. I had a problem on a S250 similar to what you are having and it ended up being a relay but I don't recall which one.
A way to bench test the relay is to put 12 volts to the coil and make sure the contacts are switching when the relay coil is energized then remove power and check that they go back to their proper position without power. The problem is, if the contacts inside the relay are weak they might show as working but not properly carrying current. Relays are cheap. I don't like throwing parts at a problem but that's about as inexpensive as it gets if you go that route.
 
A way to bench test the relay is to put 12 volts to the coil and make sure the contacts are switching when the relay coil is energized then remove power and check that they go back to their proper position without power. The problem is, if the contacts inside the relay are weak they might show as working but not properly carrying current. Relays are cheap. I don't like throwing parts at a problem but that's about as inexpensive as it gets if you go that route.
ok bobcatguy,thanks for the suggestion. :)
 
I forgot to add that I did remove fuse cover and pull and check all of the mini fuses,which were good,as well as remove and visually check the 6 or so relays also. I know you can rarely tell if a relay is bad,just short of seeing it burnt up,which is rare,but I wanted to take them out and check for pin corrosion and overheating as a start. Don't even want to replace those ($) to just guess if one may be bad. As is usual with relays,they all say that there's no real way to test them on a bench,(which I dont believe) but none-the-less here I am. Thanks
As far as checking a relay. The easiest way is to use your front headlights. Turn on your headlights, the machine doesn't have to be running to do so. But the key has to be on. Once the lights are on, simply start switching different relays to the headlight, relay socket, if the lights don't come on, that relay is bad. Relays are weird sometimes, they aren't like a blown fuse, they can work intermittently, then its time to chuck um. Yes, they can be spendy. But what I do when I need one, is go down to the local car mechanic and ask him if they have any used relays laying around. A lot of times mechanics keep junk around (like us) that they may or may not use, but hate to throw away. If they have one, they usually only want a buck or two, I have even had them give them to me. Another place to look is at a junkyard if you have one close by. My neighbor who is a diesel instructor at vo-tech college says Bosch brand relays are the best relay made, according to him they don't fail.
 
As far as checking a relay. The easiest way is to use your front headlights. Turn on your headlights, the machine doesn't have to be running to do so. But the key has to be on. Once the lights are on, simply start switching different relays to the headlight, relay socket, if the lights don't come on, that relay is bad. Relays are weird sometimes, they aren't like a blown fuse, they can work intermittently, then its time to chuck um. Yes, they can be spendy. But what I do when I need one, is go down to the local car mechanic and ask him if they have any used relays laying around. A lot of times mechanics keep junk around (like us) that they may or may not use, but hate to throw away. If they have one, they usually only want a buck or two, I have even had them give them to me. Another place to look is at a junkyard if you have one close by. My neighbor who is a diesel instructor at vo-tech college says Bosch brand relays are the best relay made, according to him they don't fail.
Ok thanks reaperman !
 
I'd honestly look at a faulty controller if everything with the battery checks out.
Still no luck on the 773 problems I have. Can anyone tell me how I can bypass the bcis and override the lock-out mode on this thing? I need to move it asap but no lights are on the panel where I would normally press the green button to get things to move ! Help! asap !! Thanks,Jim
 
Still no luck on the 773 problems I have. Can anyone tell me how I can bypass the bcis and override the lock-out mode on this thing? I need to move it asap but no lights are on the panel where I would normally press the green button to get things to move ! Help! asap !! Thanks,Jim
Does that one have a service switch?
 
Does that one have a service switch?
You can pull the brake wedge out from under the brake solenoid to drive it. Tie the fuel shut off over and jump the starter. Then you can at least get it on a trailer to a dealer. You would completely cobble the machine trying to bypass stuff. You have either a wiring problem or a failed controller if everything with the battery and cables cbeck out.
 
You can pull the brake wedge out from under the brake solenoid to drive it. Tie the fuel shut off over and jump the starter. Then you can at least get it on a trailer to a dealer. You would completely cobble the machine trying to bypass stuff. You have either a wiring problem or a failed controller if everything with the battery and cables cbeck out.
Thanks for the info. Now, do you know where I can see a picture of the brake solenoid for it's location?
 
I already got the engine running,what is the brake wedge?
Flip the cab. Directly behind the the steer council, bolted to the top of the center chain case cover is the solenoid. Remove the 3/8" head bolts to remove the solenoid and spring. Next remove the the base, two 9/16" head self tapper. Remove the base and remove the wedge. I'd reinstall the base and solenoid so water can't get in. Pay attention to the base, even thou it can be installed either way, it only goes one way for propper brake function.
 
Flip the cab. Directly behind the the steer council, bolted to the top of the center chain case cover is the solenoid. Remove the 3/8" head bolts to remove the solenoid and spring. Next remove the the base, two 9/16" head self tapper. Remove the base and remove the wedge. I'd reinstall the base and solenoid so water can't get in. Pay attention to the base, even thou it can be installed either way, it only goes one way for propper brake function.
Bobcatdan; Thanks so much for the brake wedge info ! It worked like a charm! I was finally able to get the 773 into my heated shop to spend more time looking for the underlying cause of my electrical problem. P.S. the local Bobcat dealer said the Only way to get it to move was to "drag" it onto a trailer and then bring it to them. Seriously?? It's like sometimes dealers don't want to share any info to help the little guy ! I plan on talking to their shop mgr. to let him know what his guy told me. Drag it on a trailer!! Up yours! I only spent more than 20 thousand dollars for THEIR product 9 years ago and thousands since then in parts,repairs,attachments etc. ! I managed to start it using common sense,and Bobcatdan instructed me on the "brake wedge" trick. You mean to tell me the Bobcat dealer did'nt know this,or wouldn't share this with me??? Seriously?? It could've saved me 5 days broke down in the extreme weather while blocking my shop driveway!! Their exact words "there is no possible way to move a disabled 773 other than to "drag" it with a larger piece of equiptment.Btw,dragging it would only be a last resort,as I have OTT grouser tracks installed. Thank you all again for your tips/insight into my problem. Will let you know what I find out.
 
Bobcatdan; Thanks so much for the brake wedge info ! It worked like a charm! I was finally able to get the 773 into my heated shop to spend more time looking for the underlying cause of my electrical problem. P.S. the local Bobcat dealer said the Only way to get it to move was to "drag" it onto a trailer and then bring it to them. Seriously?? It's like sometimes dealers don't want to share any info to help the little guy ! I plan on talking to their shop mgr. to let him know what his guy told me. Drag it on a trailer!! Up yours! I only spent more than 20 thousand dollars for THEIR product 9 years ago and thousands since then in parts,repairs,attachments etc. ! I managed to start it using common sense,and Bobcatdan instructed me on the "brake wedge" trick. You mean to tell me the Bobcat dealer did'nt know this,or wouldn't share this with me??? Seriously?? It could've saved me 5 days broke down in the extreme weather while blocking my shop driveway!! Their exact words "there is no possible way to move a disabled 773 other than to "drag" it with a larger piece of equiptment.Btw,dragging it would only be a last resort,as I have OTT grouser tracks installed. Thank you all again for your tips/insight into my problem. Will let you know what I find out.
I was a dealer tech/ service manger until April when one of my customers stole me away. Somebody like me has to be careful in telling a customer stuff like that because it is overriding safety. You get hurt, I could possibly be to blame for telling you. Not that I wouldn't have told you, hell I've done on service calls to get machines moved. I think there is an 873 still cruising around that needs a wiring harness with it pulled out because they never brought it to the shop. I probably ga e away too much work telling people too much, ha, ha.
 

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