1825 pump seal can i replace without pulling pump?

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dune33

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Nov 13, 2010
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Guys I finaly spent two hours powerwashing the 6" of dirt and oil from inside of the inside on my 1825 and i found my leak. The shaft seal on the side of the pump that controls direction is leaking, my book shows the compleet pump teardown, i was wondering if i can replace the seal while the pump is still installed? it looks like i need to pull the bearing retainer replace the seal and install the retainer. Thanks john
 

willie59

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Jun 26, 2011
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In most cases, you can replace control shaft seal without removal or disassembly of drive pump. It requires removal of the control arms connected to the pump control shaft and remove the bearing retainer plate with the seal. Remove carefully and slowly though, there's some bearing loader shims and spacer under that plate, you'll also want to replace the o-ring seal that seals the plate. Raise the loader arms and install the safety prop prior to beginning work, that makes it a lot easier to access the components without arms in the way. Once you get the repairs done, you may find the machine will now creep and will need to adjust the neutral of control arms.
 

willie59

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Jun 26, 2011
Messages
18
In most cases, you can replace control shaft seal without removal or disassembly of drive pump. It requires removal of the control arms connected to the pump control shaft and remove the bearing retainer plate with the seal. Remove carefully and slowly though, there's some bearing loader shims and spacer under that plate, you'll also want to replace the o-ring seal that seals the plate. Raise the loader arms and install the safety prop prior to beginning work, that makes it a lot easier to access the components without arms in the way. Once you get the repairs done, you may find the machine will now creep and will need to adjust the neutral of control arms.
Oh, forgot something, you may consider putting a vacuum on the fill spout of hyd tank. Otherwise, you're gonna dump some oil when you remove that bearing plate.
 
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dune33

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Nov 13, 2010
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Oh, forgot something, you may consider putting a vacuum on the fill spout of hyd tank. Otherwise, you're gonna dump some oil when you remove that bearing plate.
Thanks Willie I'm looking on Coleman Equipments web page for the parts and they list two 1825's the break point is after SN JAF0069587 i'm comfused my SN is 17762589 i hope the one that i have is after because the parts are 1/2 the price. Maybe i need to drop the JA and my first digit is a I and not 1????????? Thanks john
 

willie59

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Jun 26, 2011
Messages
18
Thanks Willie I'm looking on Coleman Equipments web page for the parts and they list two 1825's the break point is after SN JAF0069587 i'm comfused my SN is 17762589 i hope the one that i have is after because the parts are 1/2 the price. Maybe i need to drop the JA and my first digit is a I and not 1????????? Thanks john
I'm thinking the correct parts pages should be s/n 0069587 and after. The other parts pages are for models prior to that number.
 
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dune33

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Nov 13, 2010
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26
I'm thinking the correct parts pages should be s/n 0069587 and after. The other parts pages are for models prior to that number.
i fond out my 1825 is a 1988 model and the SN with all numbers and no letters would be the early prouduction so Case wants over $40 for the seal, i took the pump numbers to the local Hyd. shop and got the part for just over $15 thanks john
 
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dune33

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Nov 13, 2010
Messages
26
i fond out my 1825 is a 1988 model and the SN with all numbers and no letters would be the early prouduction so Case wants over $40 for the seal, i took the pump numbers to the local Hyd. shop and got the part for just over $15 thanks john
Seal repair went well and the vac worked great. john
 
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dune33

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Nov 13, 2010
Messages
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Always nice to hear when someone has a win with a repair!
With the smaller machine 1825 i'm finding that i need smaller tools and smaller hands and arms. My second and the bad leak was what looked like the adapters on the loader valve i had to remove all the fittings because the one leaking was on the bottom. what i found was a steel line flare was bad so i just replaced it with a short hose good to go. Now i just need to rebuild one of the bucket clinders and maybe i can keep the shop floor oil free. John
 
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