Melroe M371 mods

chesterspal · Sep 3, 2023

Now that I have my M371's engine straightened out, I took some time to make a few mods.

First, I moved the battery from where they had it wedged between the seat and the inside wall by making a mount to secure it to the back of the frame. Now, I can access it easily to bring it in for the winter or clip on a solar panel to keep it topped off in the field.

Adding that mount required I move the top "crash grate" out a bit from the frame. I welded two sections of 1" square steel to the back and that let it clear the battery box.

The fuel filler hose was an issue, as I found I needed to pressurise the tank after adding fuel. I purchased a section of hose so I could move the neck and cap up next to the battery where I can access it easily.

chesterspal · Sep 4, 2023

Another thing I did was to rework the hydraulic return hose. Not sure how it comes from the factory but the one in mine, basically a soft rubber heater hose, was kinked in two places due to the bends it had to make from point A to point B.

I decided to cut the hose in two places and install two 3/4" OD plastic right angle connectors. Now, the hose runs with no kinks and I can install the seat frame and know the hose is well away from it.

chesterspal · Sep 9, 2023

I'm using a 5VX belt for the drive. This belt type has no material on the side of the V. This gives it more grab with less slippage.

I settled on a 61" long belt. This gives just enough loosness around the pulleys when the idler is lifted for starting and parking. It will also allow manual change-over for the faster speed, which I have no plans to use.

chesterspal · Sep 9, 2023

I added the Piranha Tooth Bar to the front of my 41" bucket. Supposed to make digging into the earth doable. We shall see how well it works on this smaller skid steer.

Easy enough to remove in just a few minutes. Cost was around $350 with the shipping.

haymaker · Sep 10, 2023

Fantastic job!!

I added a removable tooth bar on my 542B.
It made a huge difference.
I just cut down one from a 60 inch bucket I got at auction to fit my 48" bucket, and welded angles on each end to bolt it to the bucket.

chesterspal · Sep 10, 2023

Getting the ignition right with this Kohler K321 14hp engine is key to a well operating M371.

I spent weeks working on it thinking I had a carb problem (even replaced the aftermarket that was on there) when in reality, it was all ignition timing. Unless you get the timing right between the points and the spark plug, you will not have a well running engine.

Something I did find that made a world of difference in the ignition was replacing the 10,000 ohm resistive ignition lead with a solid core, zero ohm wire. This quaranteed maximum voltage to the spark plug. Stronger spark, better more even fuel burning.

Until then, my plug was completely blackened. Part of that was due to mis-timing but, the solid core ignition lead had to help.

I know many opt for doing a "repower"... and that's fine. However, I think if you can get this OEM Kohler engine operating properly, you should be fine. Afterall, it ran for some 50 years with it.

All of this got me what I was after. The putt-putt of a well running engine at idle. Take a listen and see for yourself.

000

haymaker · Sep 10, 2023

Nice.
I should change the wires on my 542B.
They are original from 1991.

chesterspal · Sep 10, 2023

The M371 has an idler wheel on a spring that keeps tentsion on the drive belt to the gear box.

It is engaged all the time unless you lift up the handle to release the tention. It is best to do that when starting and it is advisable to leave it relseased so the Bobcat cannot roll forward or backwards when you're not in it.

The easy fix is to attach a section of chain to the handle with a hook at the other end. This way you can pull up on the handle and tie it off to the roll cage.

chesterspal · Sep 10, 2023

I'm sure the pros out there know this... but, then the pros are not using the Melroe M371

I few warnings I will pass along to others, for what it's worth:

1) The engine does not have to be running to lower the arms. If they're up and you hit the pedal they will come down on you so watch out.

2) Never, and I mean never operate the M371 without the bucket attached. It is way rear-end heavy and it will flip over backwards even operating on a small grade.
Ask me how I now this

.

3) Frankly, I would not suggest running the M371 unless you're sitting in the cab. You run the risk of accidently stepping on the pedals getting in and out and that could be deadly if you get caught. Food for thought.

chesterspal · Sep 16, 2023

I added a hydraulic pressure guage to my M371. There is a T connection leading from the pump to the selector box that the pedals are connected to. I had removed the hose from here for using additional eqiupment. I do not plan on doing so, for the time being, and wanted to keep things simple.

That port became the place I could now connect up a pressure guage.

This picture shows the new 3/8" copper extension tube with the quage at the end. The seat has been removed for these first two images. I secured the tube to the frame so as not to snap it off or wiggle the other fittings and cause a leak.

This is looking fown from the top.

This is what I now see when sitting in the cab and looking down.

Cost for this was around $25 for the parts.

River Fluid Power · Sep 17, 2023

chesterspal said:
I added a hydraulic pressure guage to my M371. There is a T connection leading from the pump to the selector box that the pedals are connected to. I had removed the hose from here for using additional eqiupment. I do not plan on doing so, for the time being, and wanted to keep things simple.

That port became the place I could now connect up a pressure guage.

This picture shows the new 3/8" copper extension tube with the quage at the end. The seat has been removed for these first two images. I secured the tube to the frame so as not to snap it off or wiggle the other fittings and cause a leak.

View attachment 4692

This is looking fown from the top.

View attachment 4693

This is what I now see when sitting in the cab and looking down.

View attachment 4694

Cost for this was around $25 for the parts.

Looks good. Please be cautious of the tubing you used for this. It would be a good idea to verify that the pressure rating is high enough for where you have it connected.

haymaker · Sep 17, 2023

I might also see if I could secure some sort of a cage around it. Something like the security cages they put over thermostats in schools.
Lots of nice mods.
Great job.

chesterspal · Sep 17, 2023

The pressure reads around 500 psi when lifting the arms or the bucket.

Reaches a maximum of around 1500 when you hit an "end of travel" for either.

I believe the service manual calls for setting the top pressure at 1400 psi.

River Fluid Power · Sep 17, 2023

chesterspal said:
The pressure reads around 500 psi when lifting the arms or the bucket.

Reaches a maximum of around 1500 when you hit an "end of travel" for either.

I believe the service manual calls for setting the top pressure at 1400 psi.

River Fluid Power · Sep 17, 2023

chesterspal said:
The pressure reads around 500 psi when lifting the arms or the bucket.

Reaches a maximum of around 1500 when you hit an "end of travel" for either.

I believe the service manual calls for setting the top pressure at 1400 psi.

chesterspal · Sep 17, 2023

River Fluid Power said:
View attachment 4705

Wow. I'm surprised it is that low.

Well, I will have to get my hose guy make up a custom shorty for the gauge using his 2500psi hose.

That leads me to ask how the gauge can have a simple brass 1/4" tapered fitting and be good for many thousands of psi like this one?

River Fluid Power · Sep 17, 2023

chesterspal said:
Wow. I'm surprised it is that low.

Well, I will have to get my hose guy make up a custom shorty for the gauge using his 2500psi hose.

That leads me to ask how the gauge can have a simple brass 1/4" tapered fitting and be good for many thousands of psi like this one?

The ratings come down to the sidewall thickness of the components. The base of the gauge will have a much thicker sidewall than the tubing.

chesterspal · Sep 24, 2023

chesterspal said:
I added a hydraulic pressure guage to my M371. There is a T connection leading from the pump to the selector box that the pedals are connected to. I had removed the hose from here for using additional eqiupment. I do not plan on doing so, for the time being, and wanted to keep things simple.

That port became the place I could now connect up a pressure guage.

This picture shows the new 3/8" copper extension tube with the quage at the end. The seat has been removed for these first two images. I secured the tube to the frame so as not to snap it off or wiggle the other fittings and cause a leak.

View attachment 4692

This is looking fown from the top.

View attachment 4693

This is what I now see when sitting in the cab and looking down.

View attachment 4694

Cost for this was around $25 for the parts.

Took the advice of a forum member and replaced the brass tubing with a proper section of hydraulic hose. The added benefit being the guage is no longer rigidly attached to the frame so it should be less affected by the constant shock and vibration.

chesterspal · Sep 24, 2023

I had to replace the starter solenoid after it stopped working. Major pain in the butt to get to it as it's bolted to the front of the Kohler engine and wedged up against the hydraulic section.

After doing so, the new "golf cart" solenoid I had imported all the way from China also failed the first time I used it. The contacts latched closed so the starter was remaining fully engaged. Not good.

So, I moved the solenoid to the back frame where the battery and ignition coil live. Now, I have easy access should things go south again.

chesterspal · Sep 26, 2023

As I mentioned above, it is not neessary to have the M371 running to lower the arms. In my opinion, this is a safety issue that was no doubt addressed in later designs.

I made a simple way to protect myself when the arms are raised for cleaning or maintenance using a section of PVC pipe.

I cut a section out of the pipe just enough to allow it to snap onto the piston and remain there.

I also cut a taper at one end to make it easier for me to pull the pipe off the piston without using tools that might scratch the finish.

Finally, I painted it bright red to remind me it's on there.

BTW: It works! I know that because I accidently pressed on the pedal when working on the unit and the arms started to come down without warning.

When the pipe was reached, they stopped.

Melroe M371 mods

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