2007 S185 Voltage Issue

OK fellas, I got a real head scratcher going on with my S185. I get an occasional 41-10 and 3-10 error, both indicate an over voltage condition. I have the keypad and deluxe display, so I can monitor the voltage through the "Vitals" on the display. The voltage is reading about 1.5 volts high, which isn't a huge issue, until it goes over 16 Volts and everything locks up (hydraulics wise). So with the engine off, I read 12.6VDC with my DMM at every point that I would expect to find Battery voltage, battery, fuse panel, starter, alternator, a few plugs and wires. My panel voltmeter reads 13.9-14.1 Volts. With the engine running my DMM reads 14.2-14.6 VDC, everywhere, but my panel reads 15.7 or so volts. Again everything works fine, until it hits 16V then it errors out and shuts off the hydraulics. So far this is where I am: 1 New battery 2. New alternator (replaced assuming I had a faulty voltage regulator) 3. All grounds cleaned and tight. 4. Controller connections look good, no corrosion or loose wires. 5. Actual voltages are 12.6 and ~14.2, but the machine is reading 13.8 and 15+. I have verified with 2 operating DMMs, so I trust the voltages are correct. Anyone know where the display gets the voltmeter signal? I have the service manual, put it offers no help. I know I have a faulty voltage comparator circuit somewhere, just need to figure out where. Thoughts?

HEAD SCRATCHER? ACUTAL VOLTAGE HAS BEEN VERIFID.AMPS HAVE NOT , THAT NEEDS DONE,

7LBSSMALLIE said:

HEAD SCRATCHER? ACUTAL VOLTAGE HAS BEEN VERIFID.AMPS HAVE NOT , THAT NEEDS DONE,

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Sure, which component do you want to know the current draw on?

Mudd Flapp said:

Sure, which component do you want to know the current draw on?

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My only suggestion was the alternator, but you changed that out already...

Tazza said:

My only suggestion was the alternator, but you changed that out already...

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My thoughts too. Pretty sure its going to be wherever the system voltage is measured. I am just not sure if it is measured in the controller or somewhere else.

Mudd Flapp said:

My thoughts too. Pretty sure its going to be wherever the system voltage is measured. I am just not sure if it is measured in the controller or somewhere else.

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Pretty sure the computer is what measures the voltage.
I'm not sure if there would be a way to even trick it to thinking the voltage is correct.

Tazza said:

Pretty sure the computer is what measures the voltage.
I'm not sure if there would be a way to even trick it to thinking the voltage is correct.

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For now, I just pull the alternator fuse. When the battery gets low, I put the fuse back in and recharge the battery.

Mudd Flapp said:

For now, I just pull the alternator fuse. When the battery gets low, I put the fuse back in and recharge the battery.

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I was thinking and this is just a WAG but you could try to put a variable resistor in the power in side to the board you should be able to change the voltage within reason to what ever you need to make it work. It will just be getting a resistor to carry enough wattage so it will not burn out. I would guess again and think a 0 to 10 ohm would do it. good luck Have you made sure there are no resistance faults in the grounds?

HI MF, I have similar high-volt lock-up problems on an older 863. The voltage goes high at high RPMs and until I figure that out, I find I can still work at lower RPMs or if I have to, I turn the lights on which lowers the voltage enough to stop the lock-up. I suspect my problem is the voltage regulator or wrong pulley size on the alternator. This problem will eventually cook out the BICS solenoid. I have had to replace one already. It was very fried, even smelled fried.

revdup said:

HI MF, I have similar high-volt lock-up problems on an older 863. The voltage goes high at high RPMs and until I figure that out, I find I can still work at lower RPMs or if I have to, I turn the lights on which lowers the voltage enough to stop the lock-up. I suspect my problem is the voltage regulator or wrong pulley size on the alternator. This problem will eventually cook out the BICS solenoid. I have had to replace one already. It was very fried, even smelled fried.

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My problem is, I don't actually have an overvoltage condition. The controller thinks it is an overvoltage, but it is within normal limits when measured with a meter.

I wonder if the diodes in the alt. are acting up? maybe they are not making good dc and ac which the alt. makes , has to be converted to dc is making the computer think it is seeing voltage that isnt there. this is a wild guess.

We had one do the same thing, only that one coded for low voltage, a new mainframe controller was the solution.

foton said:

I wonder if the diodes in the alt. are acting up? maybe they are not making good dc and ac which the alt. makes , has to be converted to dc is making the computer think it is seeing voltage that isnt there. this is a wild guess.

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Brand new alternator. I don't remember if I looked for an AC voltage. Don't think so, but won't hurt to check.

ozarkag said:

We had one do the same thing, only that one coded for low voltage, a new mainframe controller was the solution.

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That is my fear.

Mudd Flapp said:

Asta e frica mea.

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This problem is 100% caused by the controller. These machines can have 2 types of controller, with four connectors or with two. I think your machine has a controller with 2 connectors because this problem is often encountered in these. Because these controllers are filled with epoxy, over time, cracks appear that allow moisture to enter the controller, damaging it. If the controller has 4 connectors, it is good because it can be repaired by ISOSCELL.

isoscell said:

This problem is 100% caused by the controller. These machines can have 2 types of controller, with four connectors or with two. I think your machine has a controller with 2 connectors because this problem is often encountered in these. Because these controllers are filled with epoxy, over time, cracks appear that allow moisture to enter the controller, damaging it. If the controller has 4 connectors, it is good because it can be repaired by ISOSCELL.

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It is a 2 connector. I have taken it out and cleaned all of the connections without success.

Hi Glean, your description contains little info to understand where the cause is.
To try to help you I will need to know the serial number of the machine, the errors obtained (if you receive them). It would also be good to see if the seat bar works. What was the dealer's summary? You can leave this info here or find us on www.isoscell.com

Just to close this out (sorry for the delay)- Dealer replaced the controlled for only a little over $2k It was definitely the issue. I would have sent it off for repair, but it is epoxy filled and the repair would have been a "maybe". So I made the dealer give me back the bad controller, since it will at least work in a pinch.

Mudd Flapp

Mudd Flapp said:

Just to close this out (sorry for the delay)- Dealer replaced the controlled for only a little over $2k It was definitely the issue. I would have sent it off for repair, but it is epoxy filled and the repair would have been a "maybe". So I made the dealer give me back the bad controller, since it will at least work in a pinch.

Mudd Flapp

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Woohoo!

Thanks for the follow up!