Recent content by ward

I know we used to set units up however we would use a flow meter and psi gauge inline to make sure that they were a match, if you have a high flow unit and it is running over relief it will generate extra heat in the hydaulics, or if the relief valve has gone bad it to will creat extra heat...

take off the quick connect for the supplyt line of the grader and add a T between the hose and quick connect and a pressure gauge if you read more then about 200 psi< i would think it would be less, and it is like the relief pressure ie 1500 to 3000 psi then what you could do is add a flow...

I would think the attachment would have a open center valve body allowing the flow to go through with out the system going over relief, going over relief will induce a lot of extra heat in the system, if you hear the system going over relief, with out seeing the unit if it was mine I would check...

the grader has an open center valve body, when you activate the function it diverts the flow to the function, if it did not do that the system would create a lot of extra heat going over relief, of which it will eventually damage the relief valve and it no longer reaching the desired pressure...

umm, I like the 4 week ATV and more coffee ☕ idea better.

The mechanical pump is bolted on the side of the engine and should be the next connection after the primer bulb when you use the primer bulb you push fuel through the mechanical fuel pump, what we always did was remove the bulb and bypass the mechanical pump and leave it in place so we did not...

also make sure the unit is not making oil also know as a bad fuel lift pump that leaks the diesel in to the engine, my self if it was me I would just stick on an electric fuel pump and eliminate the primer bulb and mechanical lift pump, bleeding out the system would be a breeze.

From what you describe I would be looking at the lift pump not the primer bulb, however if the primer bulb is stiff replacing it would be a good idea also. If the line between the primer bulb and tank has a small crack in it, remember these machinse are exposed to a lot of vibration, gravity is...

check the fuel solenoid if it is a 3 wire you have a pull circuit and a hold circuit quite often the hold side will burn out as it has the longest service use, giving the start then die when you let off the key, the pull circuit is wired to the start and the hold is wired to the ingintion side.

For make up oil for the hydrostatic drive, I would think it would be, however bucket lift and bucket curl I would think will be bewteen 2000 psi and 3000 psi, gear pumps do not like above 3000 psi, if it has a vane pump it might get pushed to 5000 psi. Hydrostatic can run up to 20,000 psi...

Any time checking pressure on a function I always "T" into that function, I used to keep a 4 foot 1/4 inch hydraulic line around to get the gauge to a remote location make sure that operating the function wont move the T fitting to a pinch point and test the pressure , also teas a unit that is...

yes like about 300 psi when a hydrostat machine is running the drive motor and pump which run in a close loop have a case drain and the oil returning from the motors is alway a little less then what the pump sent, with out the make up oil you would end up with cavation which is a vacuum buble...

I think he just sent an audio, it sounds ok to me however I havent worked or run the T190 for 20 years this coming fall, however if the thing creeps then it would make sence to have a little extra noise if setting still, does it make this noise all the time, I know the bobcats sounded different...

Does the machine creep forward or backwards? when your not touching the controls

Of a note when you look at the hoses the crimp on the fitting showes that hose has been replaced beforeas it has a bell shape where it meets the hose, the hoses lower and alongside the pump do not have a bell shape, the hose closer to the engine looks to be the make up oil hose coming from the...