Recent content by Shanmar

Wow! I probably have near 30000 total combined hours on those series of loaders and never saw that one. I do know that when you take new ones apart there is evidence of loctite being on the threads. We always used a pretty stout impact and let it hammer a bit. You may want to include some...

Yea. If you have good lift power, the pump is ok. Sounds like a cylinder seal. Dumping doesn't require much force, so it will work that way. But curling requires force to lift the bucket, so the oil just passes past the seal on the piston. If you get it curled back with the bucket on, it...

There is another thread about an LS180 having the same type of problems. In that case, they already checked everything I mentioned to you above. Here is what I suggested next for them. It may be the next step for you: "Given all of that, one would have to believe it is sending oil to the...

Given all of that, one would have to believe it is sending oil to the cylinders. Can you notice the hoses move some (flex) when you try to tilt the bucket? You could disconnect a hose and see if oil flies when you move the valve. Just make sure you think through all the safety issues there...

Ok. Also, another thought, if it has auxiliary hydraulics (couplers on the LH boom & a RH handle that tilts with the wrist to activate them) they have priority over the regular hydraulics. Meaning that if the auxiliary hydraulics are activated you will have little or no boom & bucket control. I...

3/8x1.75" 86616372 $4.19 on messicks.com

Never really saw a restriction like you're describing. Are you sure the valve spool is getting moved the full amount? Very common for the foot pedal pivot and linkage to get corroded and hard to move the full stroke. This is what I see most common with my loaders when one function is slow.

Did this once. Off the top of my head: Clean it well first and then put the loader up on blocks--SAFELY! and so it doesn't roll. You'll need the extra clearance to pivot the tank down out. Drop the belly pan under the back rear. Look at the parts manual on messicks.com to see what holds it. I'm...

Pretty sure these use a temp sensing switch and not a resistive sensor. So, either open or closed.

#6

You're correct that it is part of the whole harness which is expensive and a lot of work to replace. In that case, I have done 1 of 2 things. 1- bent/crimped the blades of the fuse so that it fits tighter in the holder making better contact. This generally served as a short term improvement...

If you unhook sensor and keep wire from touching anything what does it do? I expect it to say nothing or cold/lo temp. And if it's grounded/touching metal, I think it will say high temp.

Agree with mrbb. You're not getting good connection/current flow. I've had to replace a battery cable before because of similar issues. Both positive or ground could be suspect. Or.....weak battery not delivering the amps when cold.