S-175 year 2006 Does anyone know if this model can be timed? I had my engine rebuilt and its low on power. Shop says they don't have the necessary tools to retime it. They want me to pay the bill and take it somewhere to get timed? Any info about timing or special tools required would be appreciated.
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bobbie-g
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Here's a long shot: my 751 (Peugeot engine) started to run rough about 50 hrs after a timing belt change. An old time diesel mech listened to it and said "well, that thing is just slobbering all over itself." Musta been a technical term..... Anyhow, that engine has a flanged injection pump that bolts to the engine housing. He scribed a line in the flange and housing for reference, then slightly loosened the three bolts holding the pump to the engine. With the engine running, he then rotated the pump with a huge pair of slipjoint pliers to achieve smooth running. Tightened bolts down and we're done. He only rotated it a few degrees at most. Obviously, this technique depends on having a similar injection pump and mounting arrangement. Best I can offer. 
--- Bobbie-G
--- Bobbie-GIf it's the factory motor, there is no need to re-time it. Kobota time the crank and injector pump and cam shaft with gears, it is was not rebuilt the timing will not change.Here's a long shot: my 751 (Peugeot engine) started to run rough about 50 hrs after a timing belt change. An old time diesel mech listened to it and said "well, that thing is just slobbering all over itself." Musta been a technical term..... Anyhow, that engine has a flanged injection pump that bolts to the engine housing. He scribed a line in the flange and housing for reference, then slightly loosened the three bolts holding the pump to the engine. With the engine running, he then rotated the pump with a huge pair of slipjoint pliers to achieve smooth running. Tightened bolts down and we're done. He only rotated it a few degrees at most. Obviously, this technique depends on having a similar injection pump and mounting arrangement. Best I can offer.
The injector pump is adjusted with shims, but again, this does not need to be changed unless the block is machined.
Start with the easy stuff, change filters first. You may need to get the compression checked if it still runs badly.
Im new to this and maybe putting info in wrong spot. I have a s 175 that i just put a rebuilt motor in. Starts right up and runs fine. the problem I have is when i try to dig into a pile of dirt it wants to stall out. changed filters 3 times 20 hours on motor.. Any suggestions???
maybe the governor is not working properly ,just a guess.
The simplest thing i can think of is the bleed screw on the injector pump, Ensure this valve is closed. If it's let open, you don't get enough lift pressure to keep the motor running under higher speed or load.
Without seeing it, it's hard to know if the motor stalling out is fuel related or something is loading it down.
I'd like to start with the easier stuff, fuel lines, fuel pressure to the pump. If the motor stalls without black smoke, i'd suspect it's starving for fuel. Black smoke is unburnt fuel, if the fuel isn't there, it can't smoke. If it's still injecting fuel, but not enough air, you get black smoke, same with it being fueling correctly but under high load, it will give black smoke.
It's a spot to start looking i guess.
