Good to hear it's running, even for short periods of time. It should get better the more you run it, loosen things up a bit more.
Picked up the 1830 today (not running)
- Thread starter Iallwork
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Hotrod1830
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Glad to hear it runs. Now stop starting it and get a cooling system on it.
Point gap on a 1.6 Ford industrial should be .025"
Yes, 71 pinto would be correct for a Ford 1.6 industrial engine, as well as passenger car engines. The Ford fiesta engines are simular, but not all parts will interchange. If you have point's, you probably have a industrial engine or a pinto engine. FWIW, you can get a electronic ignition conversion for just about any points distributor. Makes them run a little better, and you will never have to worry about points again. I would save that for when you have everything buttoned up.
Remember, passenger car HP ratings are given at peak HP RPM's. Your engine should be limited to around 3000 rpm's(it does have a governer on it, right???) The hydro's werent really designed to spin faster that that. A More realistic HP number is around 30-32(@3000rpm).
Discovered a leak coming from under the pumps. Drips when it's not running. About one drip per minute. I can't see exactly where it is coming from. I took a mirror and I can see it dripping off a piece of channel that is a bracket directly under the pumps. Will I be able to remove the pumps with out taking the motor out? Hopefully I can just replace a seal or gasket and not have to rebuild the pump. Still working on the radiator and hoses. Needs a fuel pump. It has a governor but I have to install it as it had been removed when I purchased the machine.
Maybe I could try to tighten the bolts (carefully) that connect the pumps. I see there is a seal in there.
Hotrod1830
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You can remove the pumps with the engine installed. Just remove the floor plates and unbolt the pump mount's, control linkage, remove the hoses and disconnect the engine coupler. Seal kit's are pretty cheap. They are really simple pump's. If you can get them out, you are capable of rebuilding them. Just remember to clean everything before you remove the hoses, and keep everything CLEAN when you disassemble/reassemble the pumps.
Tightening the mounting bolt's wont help a shaft seal leak. If you have it out, replace all the seals and inspect the rotating group for wear.
Now that I spent several hours cleaning the crap out off the floor. It looks like it may be leaking from both sides. It would make sense that the leak is coming from where the linkage or shaft for the linkages go into the pumps. There is a lot movement there and one of them has a lot of play, so maybe a bearing also. Driving me crazy watching that good oil leaking out every day! Just making chain case oil I guess, if I can save it.
OK pulled the tandem pump out. fixed the Oring. $2 oring but had to buy alot of them to get the right one. I am learning that orings are a little bit of guess and knowledge type thing. I put the tandem pump back in. No leaks! No wait. Looks like a chain case leak on the left side at the brake pedal. That makes no sense. All the chain case oil has been drained. Must be the seal on the end of the drive motor. Does this sound correct. It does to me. Don]t worry. Be happy. Thanks everyone!
Fixed the drive motor seal. Nice to not have oil leaking every day, all day. Anyone know the chain case capacity? I found that an 1840 is 1.2 gallons(is that each side?). That doesn't seem like much. hoping it would be more because I have like three or more gallons of oil that leaked out that I saved and I don't want to put it back in the hydro pump.
Sadly i don't know, can you call your local dealer and ask?
Glad you got the drive motor seal fixed, it's nice having a non leaky machine.
OK. After changing the seal on the drive motor. i'm thinking change the seal on the other side. If it leaks, It could just leak into the chain case and I would not even know it is loosing fluid into the chain case. So, after looking at the axles, I decide to get new seals for the leaky things. I realize now that the last thing to receive any grease are the axle bearings and when the seals go bad, along with the chain case covers, water enters the hubs. Add two or more years of setting outside,well, New bearings.At least the rears. Cheap fix. time to fix it now, because as we know as soon as it's running I am not going to tear it down. So rebuilt axle hubs (seals, bearings, and paint). Still married (great wife) OCD. LA LA.
Ok I'm a grandpa, and still married. My case is almost ready to move. Rebuilt the hubs, new bearings, where needed, new seals (why not), and pretty paint, paint, paint, more paint. Hoses where needed. More oil. Ready soon. One year (really!).
It all takes time, hopefully it will be running again soon.
Good to see you are doing a propper job and not doing smaller things like seals that may fail later and you need to go back in to do.
finally got the 1830 working. ran it for about 3 hrs today. one of the lift cylinders has a small drip. everything else works great. motor is a little wore out (blowbye from rings). might get better as i use it more. 2 and 1/2 years later. think i'm really going to like this machine.
walio123
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- Dec 9, 2013
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I hope it will serve to you long time and trouble-free.
A skidder will save you a lot of hard lifting, enjoy the machine!
A small cylinder leak isn't a big deal, if it was re-sealed, it could be assembly oil from years ago, but if it does keep dripping, seals are cheap.
