Hello all! I'm new to this site, but have enjoyed reading ya'lls threads. My project is an early 80's 630 bobcat skid steer. Originally it had a 4 cylinder wisconsin in it but that bit the dust. I already had a thermo king reefer with the engine and all intact, so it was an easy decision to make the swap. But now i've run into trouble, how can I get the injector pump to be variable throttle or is that not possible? It has fixed throttle control now because of the reefer application. Does anyone have any thoughts on this? maybe even someone with this very engine?
630 gas to Isuzu c201 reefer engine swap
- Thread starter mcdiesel
- Start date
The refer motor should have two throttle settings, idle and full throttle. I would almost think these would work for you using full throttle when working, and maybe putting a switch on it to go to idle when you need more "delicate" control or just to idle. I would think it might be some hassle to put it in and get it going, but i cant think of a stronger more reliable engine. Them things are awesome engines! Good luck, keep us posted on your progress.
I'm not sure what type of thermo king engine you have but if it is older this video may be of some help. It's a very short video but this does show a variable speed throttle. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M1bXErGkMCA
Here is another video with a c201 engine whereat the end of the video you can see the guy move a throttle / governor lever by hand. if he's doing this there must be a way to connect a throttle to that linkage. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-KFhbz6RhjY
Here's one more. Sorry for so many posts but I keep finding better videos. In this one you can see a rod going from the fuel pump to a solenoid. that solenoid is what would control the two speeds I mentioned in my first post. I think you could use that solenoid as I said earlier with the two speeds , or eliminate the solenoid completely and hook your throttle to that rod or the lever it attaches to on the pump itself. It looks as if in is idle and out is full, any thing in between could be controlled / set with a throttle lever or cable. I would think it is internally governed to maintain a steady rpm once throttle position is set, as when it's on a refer the load varies when the unit is cooling, defrosting, or recirculating air so it needs and must have a governor at a steady rpm to accommodate these load changes. I would think that the governor would still function fully if you put a throttle on that rod or lever. I hope this works for you. I would like to so something similar to mine. these are cheap, plentiful and reliable engines, it should be nice when you are done.
oops, forgot the link to the video. I wish I could edit the posts here without posting a new post. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Dx32A4duJmE
Hey thanks for all that! It helped me identify what i need to do. The last video (the one i'm replying to) shows the man moving the throttle rod and that solinoid is meant to make it have the 2 settings 1300 and 2200 rpms. if i remove that and connect my cable to that then i have what i need because i can adjust the screws to respectively allow for higher and lower rpms. then i'm where i need to be. I'll post some pic of my project soon once i figure out how to with google chrome....
Glad I could find some stuff to help you! Sorry I couldn't get it all in one post, but I just kept finding better videos. It seems you can find anything on youtube. If I can be of anymore help I'll be glad to try. I'v done a ton of engine swaps, but mostly with cars. Again, good luck, hope it works out for you. love to see them pics if you can get them on here, I know the feeling, nuts & bolts no problem, computers... not so much. lol.
My next question to all is any thoughts on how to adapt the flywheel to the pump. The gas engine was short enough to allow a double u-joint to give the whole works the flex it needs, But now i've got this long diesel to contend with. I dont want to deal with the thought of welding extensions around the door to extend the door frame, I'd rather not ruin it that way. So to keep it short should I use a lovejoy connection, or maybe even just weld the union to the flywheel, or what else I'm not sure. I dont want to cause too much vibration thats for sure. Any thoughts?
I would talk to a machinist and see about making a flange that would bolt on the flywheel with the same bolts that currently hold the flywheel to the crank. Then have him weld a shaft in the center of that flange that would mate with your pump, if it is a splined pump make a mating splined coupling or if it is keyed, your idea with a love joy coupling (attached to the flange and shaft you have made) would work fine. In fact that might be preferable so it gives you a little more "wiggle room" if your pump mount isn't as exactly centered as it would need to be if it where on a spline shaft. The flange and shaft,or I guess you could call it a hub, might cost up to a couple hundred bucks at a machine shop. That it's where it's real handy to know what flavor beer one of your machinist friends drinks, Ha-Ha. That method of payment has saved me a ton of cash over the years. If all else fails, have you considered running the pump off v-belts along side the engine. That would require getting pulleys (sheaves) for the pump and engine and creating a adjustable mount / belt tensioning system. A pump that size I would think would need 3 or 4 matched belts so there would be no slippage and not burn up belts. You could probably find sheaves and even spline shafts, and couplings at places like Baum hydraulics or McMaster Carr over the internet or in a catalog, they both do mail order. Hope I maybe gave you an idea to start with. If I was you, I would talk to a machinist though and show him what you would like to do. Them guys can usually think of simple ideas to solve complex problems.
frogfarmer
Well-known member
- Joined
- Jul 30, 2010
- Messages
- 359
LoveJoy couplers wont last any time it that application. Skids that direct couple to the pumps use a flex plate with a splined hub. The flex plate protrudes from the flywheel about half an inch so it is a very close fit. In this application the pumps bolt directly to the cover plate of the flywheel housing. The engine to pump coupler takes an enormous amount of abuse. The double joint is the best route for ease and longevity. Other options are available but most wont save much room.
SkidRoe
Well-known member
- Joined
- Dec 10, 2009
- Messages
- 1,887
I am with frogfarmer - your typical Lovejoy coupler won't take that kind of torque.
While the double universal is the best, you may be able to get away with a chain coupler - basically two sprockets back to back, with a double row roller chain wraped around them, transmitting the power. You will need to have your shafts reasonably well aligned, but they don't need to be perfect.
And this type of coupler is fairly compact, like a Lovejoy.
HTH
Here is a link to a page in the McMaster Carr catalog so you can compare some couplings ans look at the torque loads they will take and several different styles of couplings. Maybe there is something here to give you a idea as to which way to go. I do agree with these guys that a spline shaft would be strongest, but that will need the pump to be aligned perfectly so you don't tear up your pump. The chain coupling is a option but if you compare these couplings you can see one of the love joy couplings for a 7/8" shaft will take over 6000 inch lbs. of torque, that would be more than enough, in my opinion. http://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-shaft-couplings/=p3dh93
mcdiesel, have you made any progress on this swap? I'm interested to know how it comes together and works out. Should be a good engine for that machine if you get it going.
I'm waiting on an adapter my machinist brother in law is making for me. Its going to be a chain style one. The double chain style that is. He has to machine off some of the original flywheel and recess it a little for the hub that the sprocket rides on. I figure once i get it more together I can get a whole bunch of pics together for ya'll.
