853 Bobcat SN# 512821927 no lift no tilt

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Tazza said:
That wouldn't cause the blinking to change.... The lights are only an indication of the electrical connections. Mainly open, short, short to ground. I don't see the O rings being an issue.
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The Dealer told me to replace the Seat switch and magnet....so I did. Bha ha ha yea . it still doesn't work $#@%$%**&
 
WTF said:
The Dealer told me to replace the Seat switch and magnet....so I did. Bha ha ha yea . it still doesn't work $#@%$%**&
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O.K. , now I'm at wits end....I just got done putting the lap bar switch , magnet and bushing in . And the BICS is still blinking once , all the other lights are on. I can drive it just fine , just the bucket and lift still don't work..
 
WTF said:
O.K. , now I'm at wits end....I just got done putting the lap bar switch , magnet and bushing in . And the BICS is still blinking once , all the other lights are on. I can drive it just fine , just the bucket and lift still don't work..
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I'd start inspecting the wiring harness for a rub or short.
 
OldMachinist said:
I'd start inspecting the wiring harness for a rub or short.
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did you try pulling the plug out the bics and checking for corrision or wire burnt out inside the rubber coating at the box plug------I would check to see if voltage is making it to the coil , if it doesn't andyou really need to dump the load and keep working I would take one of them blue wire splicers that you can squeeze over the wire and tap into the wire coming off the coil and run the other end to a voltage source that is only hot when the ignition is on and it should by pass the bics box as far as the tilt and boom lock out goes , it will still code up but operate ----- if you have a bics and it has seat and seat bar on it then I would upgrade to the newer bics box seat sensor elimination kit , if it is still available for that old a machine , which by passes the seat sensor ------
 
Fishfiles said:
did you try pulling the plug out the bics and checking for corrision or wire burnt out inside the rubber coating at the box plug------I would check to see if voltage is making it to the coil , if it doesn't andyou really need to dump the load and keep working I would take one of them blue wire splicers that you can squeeze over the wire and tap into the wire coming off the coil and run the other end to a voltage source that is only hot when the ignition is on and it should by pass the bics box as far as the tilt and boom lock out goes , it will still code up but operate ----- if you have a bics and it has seat and seat bar on it then I would upgrade to the newer bics box seat sensor elimination kit , if it is still available for that old a machine , which by passes the seat sensor ------
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If you go that way, be careful about the voltage. I'm not 100% sure they run off 12v, but i do like the idea of running it with switched power.
 
Tazza said:
If you go that way, be careful about the voltage. I'm not 100% sure they run off 12v, but i do like the idea of running it with switched power.
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thanks guys , I'll give it a try , I'll be back to let you all know what happens. the coil does say 12V on it .
 
WTF said:
thanks guys , I'll give it a try , I'll be back to let you all know what happens. the coil does say 12V on it .
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it will handle 12 volts , I can think of machines that have been jumped for years ------ another test I didn't mention if you have voltage and it still don't work , then put a screwdriver on the stem which sticks out the end of the nut which holds the coil top the stem , if it is working it will magnetically pull the screwdriver on to the stem
 
Fishfiles said:
it will handle 12 volts , I can think of machines that have been jumped for years ------ another test I didn't mention if you have voltage and it still don't work , then put a screwdriver on the stem which sticks out the end of the nut which holds the coil top the stem , if it is working it will magnetically pull the screwdriver on to the stem
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I ran a wire from the Red / Green wire plug on the coil , all the way up to the ignition stud on the back of the ignition switch and at first I bummed out because when I started it the light was still blinking , but I gave it a go and wha la .....IT WORKS LIKE A CHARM !!! , Thank you Guys so much !!! YOUR GREAT!!
 
WTF said:
I ran a wire from the Red / Green wire plug on the coil , all the way up to the ignition stud on the back of the ignition switch and at first I bummed out because when I started it the light was still blinking , but I gave it a go and wha la .....IT WORKS LIKE A CHARM !!! , Thank you Guys so much !!! YOUR GREAT!!
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I should have told you there is a two wire uncapped plug that is unused right where the wiring harness starts going up to the cab from the belly , the orange wire is an accesory lead , 18 inches of wire and two blue slices ( which I really hate using those things) and 3 minutes and your fixed up
 
Fishfiles said:
I should have told you there is a two wire uncapped plug that is unused right where the wiring harness starts going up to the cab from the belly , the orange wire is an accesory lead , 18 inches of wire and two blue slices ( which I really hate using those things) and 3 minutes and your fixed up
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Have same problem as WTF and Wtf!!! Was wondering if it is still working. What coil did you jump off of and where is it located??? I need some help. PLEASE
 

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