753 Fan Belt/Drive Belt Replacement

[USN Retired]

I am getting ready to replace my worn and cracked Drive Belt and Fan Belt. The manual recommends using MEL-1405 Bar and a MEL 1406 Spring Scale for adjusting the Idler Tensioner and the Drive Belt. It appears I have the Fixed Drive Idler. I do believe in the right tool for the job but if there is an equal or better (and less expensive) mouse trap I am all for using it. Are there other tool options or methods to ensure I get the correct tension on the belts? Recommendations appreciated!

 

[Tazza]

I'm sure others will have better advise for you, but i'd just pull it tight and keep an eye on it. Mine are spring loaded, but if i had a fixed one, i'd just tighten it as i don't have the correct tools. It does need to be rather tight though.

 

[waggles]

See my post about the belt tensioner, they dont have that much tension really. Mine was fairly loose but not slipping at all , if you have ever felt the tension on a fan belt its about the same. I have a fellow business owner who has had 5000hrs on one belt on a 753H machine.

 

[USN Retired]

See my post about the belt tensioner, they dont have that much tension really. Mine was fairly loose but not slipping at all , if you have ever felt the tension on a fan belt its about the same. I have a fellow business owner who has had 5000hrs on one belt on a 753H machine.

Tazza, waggles,..thanks for the reply. My initial thoughts were to do as you recommended, so I figured I would see what others would do. I was pursuing the location of a persistent leak when I decided I probably needed to change the belts. I confirmed the leak today after many witch hunts. It appears to be coming from where the hydrostat pump is bolted on the right side. I will have to do some research in the manual but it looks like I will have to pull the pump. Looks like the most difficult part might be removing the pulley from the pump (not any room to work there). One positive side to this is that it will give me a chance to do some good cleaning once it is out.

 

[Tazza]

Tazza, waggles,..thanks for the reply. My initial thoughts were to do as you recommended, so I figured I would see what others would do. I was pursuing the location of a persistent leak when I decided I probably needed to change the belts. I confirmed the leak today after many witch hunts. It appears to be coming from where the hydrostat pump is bolted on the right side. I will have to do some research in the manual but it looks like I will have to pull the pump. Looks like the most difficult part might be removing the pulley from the pump (not any room to work there). One positive side to this is that it will give me a chance to do some good cleaning once it is out.

The pump and engine come out as one. Its much easier that way. You are spot on about the pump pulley, its a taper fit with a key. There is no room to attach a puller to get the rotten thing off in place.
So the oil leak seems to be coming from the shaft seal right behind the pulley? or could it be from the shafts where the steering linkages connect? These seals are known to leak, its not too hard to replace them.

 

[7LBSSMALLIE]

The pump and engine come out as one. Its much easier that way. You are spot on about the pump pulley, its a taper fit with a key. There is no room to attach a puller to get the rotten thing off in place.
So the oil leak seems to be coming from the shaft seal right behind the pulley? or could it be from the shafts where the steering linkages connect? These seals are known to leak, its not too hard to replace them.

tazz is right on AGAIN. pull package. while on the ground replace hydrostat input shaft seal . this pulley can be diffulct =o remove might require heat. be carefull to inspect brg. if ok go on ,replace stat swashplate seals , there is a speedy sleeve if needed #99-100) not bobcat .inspect steering parts replace as needed. after inalling new drive belt dead head against brake , and re adjust to iit feels good.(new belt needs run in) while ther check angle belt drive pullet tenionser (alum spring loaded arm for slop) repair if needed. check pump mount bolt. r/s under hyd pump , mounts right side of stat assy to mounts. not an easy job but doable. dont quote the quote but id say twelve, buy the all new fluids to get youre 1000 hr done nat this time including case drains