Bobcat 553 foot controls

[brunobasser]

I have a 553 and at the end of the day my knees are "shot" from working the foot controls. I am considering installing some bearings on the pivots on the foot controls. Has anyone ever done this? or is this a "Crazy" idea? It just seems like the the controls could be easier to operate and the only thing I can see is the friction on the pivot points is making it hard to work. Also hope that this will make the operation of the controls more smooth. Any suggestions?

 

[thetool]

I'm trying to think how you'd do it, and what kind of bearings you'd use. The pedals pivot on simple unlubricated pin-and-boss hinge thingies, and the linkage is connected with torsion bushings, except for the pivot for the lift cross-over on top of the chaincase, which is a teflon bushing/bearing setup.
Before you try that, I'd try adjusting the pedals forward or backward too try and get your feet and ankles in a more comfortable position or postitions when moving the pedals. They slide and lock with carriage bolts, three for each pedal, and you can adjust the angles somewhat-but not too much or you'll change the stroke and the pedal will stop before you get full spool travel.

 

[Tazza]

I'm trying to think how you'd do it, and what kind of bearings you'd use. The pedals pivot on simple unlubricated pin-and-boss hinge thingies, and the linkage is connected with torsion bushings, except for the pivot for the lift cross-over on top of the chaincase, which is a teflon bushing/bearing setup.
Before you try that, I'd try adjusting the pedals forward or backward too try and get your feet and ankles in a more comfortable position or postitions when moving the pedals. They slide and lock with carriage bolts, three for each pedal, and you can adjust the angles somewhat-but not too much or you'll change the stroke and the pedal will stop before you get full spool travel.

I'd doubt you would have a lot of friction here, i made up a bushing for my 743 pedals. A steel tube with bronze inserts at both ends then welded it inside the housing under the pedal, slid the pin through the pedal then the bushing. The pin was drilled and installed a grease nipple, runs smooth as with NO slop!
thetool makes very good points, i believe your main issue is the angle your feet control the pedals at. My dads 453 is very cramped and the angle of the pedals is a bit of a pest. You can loosen the bolts holding them down and slide them forward or backward to get a comfortable angle.

 

[perry]

I'd doubt you would have a lot of friction here, i made up a bushing for my 743 pedals. A steel tube with bronze inserts at both ends then welded it inside the housing under the pedal, slid the pin through the pedal then the bushing. The pin was drilled and installed a grease nipple, runs smooth as with NO slop!
thetool makes very good points, i believe your main issue is the angle your feet control the pedals at. My dads 453 is very cramped and the angle of the pedals is a bit of a pest. You can loosen the bolts holding them down and slide them forward or backward to get a comfortable angle.

I fought the same problem, adjust the paddles forward and make sure your seat is all the way back. You can redrill the seat bolts back a little and gain even more..

 

[brunobasser]

I'm trying to think how you'd do it, and what kind of bearings you'd use. The pedals pivot on simple unlubricated pin-and-boss hinge thingies, and the linkage is connected with torsion bushings, except for the pivot for the lift cross-over on top of the chaincase, which is a teflon bushing/bearing setup.
Before you try that, I'd try adjusting the pedals forward or backward too try and get your feet and ankles in a more comfortable position or postitions when moving the pedals. They slide and lock with carriage bolts, three for each pedal, and you can adjust the angles somewhat-but not too much or you'll change the stroke and the pedal will stop before you get full spool travel.

Thanks for the replies, Thetool, I am going to try moving the pedals forward that should provide some relief but I still think some kind of mod is needed at those pivot points. ...................... Tazza, No Slop? and the bucket operation is smooth? that's what I'm looking for. I thought I would use bearings instead of the brass....If I go with the bearings I will post some pics. Maybe I'm just puttiing too much thought into this... I think the fish are calling ><> .... ......................... Perry, the seat is already back all the way, If moving the pedals forward don't work I am going to experiment with raising the seat a bit.......

 

[Tazza]

Thanks for the replies, Thetool, I am going to try moving the pedals forward that should provide some relief but I still think some kind of mod is needed at those pivot points. ...................... Tazza, No Slop? and the bucket operation is smooth? that's what I'm looking for. I thought I would use bearings instead of the brass....If I go with the bearings I will post some pics. Maybe I'm just puttiing too much thought into this... I think the fish are calling ><> .... ......................... Perry, the seat is already back all the way, If moving the pedals forward don't work I am going to experiment with raising the seat a bit.......

No slop what so ever! I should try and get a picture for you, its a very simple mod if you have access to a lathe and welder. Operation is smooth, there is just enough tolerance between the pin and the bronze bushing for the grease to run and its super smooth, it may be a little grubby looking when the grease squirts out the sides, but it does the job! Drilling the pin can be a little tough as its hardened. I used a tungsten center drill to start the hole and the same drill for the oil hole 1/2 way down the pin. Once you get through the hardening its ok, it has a reasonably soft center.

 

[perry]

No slop what so ever! I should try and get a picture for you, its a very simple mod if you have access to a lathe and welder. Operation is smooth, there is just enough tolerance between the pin and the bronze bushing for the grease to run and its super smooth, it may be a little grubby looking when the grease squirts out the sides, but it does the job! Drilling the pin can be a little tough as its hardened. I used a tungsten center drill to start the hole and the same drill for the oil hole 1/2 way down the pin. Once you get through the hardening its ok, it has a reasonably soft center.

Raising the seat!, that's a good idea. As you adjust the paddle forward the paddle will rotate to point of little heel movement. I had to readjust mine 3-4 times until it was comfortable.