Outer Hub Seal on T180

Help Support SkidSteer Forum:

thieb

Member
Joined
Jul 9, 2014
Messages
16
Ok so I have a leaky outer hub seal on my t180. I noticed it after sitting for about 2 months. It ran straight down the inside of the sprocket, so it must have started while it was sitting. I am fairly mechanically inclined as I have built several vehicles, and do all of my own mechanic work; however, I have never torn into any final drives so I'm a little hesitant as to what I may be getting myself into. Is it a difficult task to pull the final apart and change the outer hub seal? Is there other seals, o-rings, bearings etc. that I should replace while I'm in there? Do I need any special tools? Any advice is much appreciated. Also, am I going to be in over my head on this project, or is it something that someone like myself can handle? I should also mention that I changed final oil sometime last summer, along with a major system maintenance overhaul including the case-drains, all of which looked clean and in working order. I even cut the main hydro filter to ensure no major particulate was flowing though the system. So I do not believe that it is excess pressure pushing from a failing drive motor. Thanks fellas!
 

Bobcatdan

Well-known member
Joined
May 3, 2012
Messages
1,684
There is only a small amount of oil in the hub, 80 ml or so. If you have more oil leaking then that it maybe a bigger problem. If not then you have possibly could it in time. Remove the drive motor. Remove the end hub. All the hub is a stub shaft and bearings, bobcat doesn't use any final gear sets. You will need a press to release the tension on the retaing ring. As for what to replace, its up to you. Since you're in there bearings and races arn't a bad idea.
 
OP
OP
T

thieb

Member
Joined
Jul 9, 2014
Messages
16
There is only a small amount of oil in the hub, 80 ml or so. If you have more oil leaking then that it maybe a bigger problem. If not then you have possibly could it in time. Remove the drive motor. Remove the end hub. All the hub is a stub shaft and bearings, bobcat doesn't use any final gear sets. You will need a press to release the tension on the retaing ring. As for what to replace, its up to you. Since you're in there bearings and races arn't a bad idea.
Thanks Bobcatdan. I'm certain that this is less than the amount of hub oil. I recall changing it and just how little oil there was to change. Are the seals, bearings and races a common part that could be bought from a bearing shop instead of bobcat? If so, does anyone have generic part numbers?
 

Bobcatdan

Well-known member
Joined
May 3, 2012
Messages
1,684
Thanks Bobcatdan. I'm certain that this is less than the amount of hub oil. I recall changing it and just how little oil there was to change. Are the seals, bearings and races a common part that could be bought from a bearing shop instead of bobcat? If so, does anyone have generic part numbers?
I would think once you have it apart, you should be able to take the number off the bearing and with that get new ones. As a dealer tech I never looked farther then BASS ( bobcat parts system).
 

7LBSSMALLIE

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 2, 2012
Messages
1,294
I would think once you have it apart, you should be able to take the number off the bearing and with that get new ones. As a dealer tech I never looked farther then BASS ( bobcat parts system).
stop before going any further inspect case drain filters. this will give an indaction of where to go. and yea it sucks but by the time you buy seal kits and brgs you have exceeded price of motor. and keep in mind if motor scatters it goes straight into stat. thru gear pump and cooler.
 
OP
OP
T

thieb

Member
Joined
Jul 9, 2014
Messages
16
stop before going any further inspect case drain filters. this will give an indaction of where to go. and yea it sucks but by the time you buy seal kits and brgs you have exceeded price of motor. and keep in mind if motor scatters it goes straight into stat. thru gear pump and cooler.
I just looked and I have less than 20 hours on the machine since I did the major fluid/filter change. I found absolutely nothing in any of the filters as stated above. Do I still need to inspect the case drains?? Also, this leak began while the machine was sitting as indicated by one precise streak down the inside of the sprocket. Is that an indicator of anything significant. I did notice that parts costs are significant which is why I hoped I could find some generic part numbers and such. Does anyone have experience with companies such as finaldriveparts.com refurbishing drives? Its looking like having someone else do this for me may be a better option.
 

Bobcatdan

Well-known member
Joined
May 3, 2012
Messages
1,684
I just looked and I have less than 20 hours on the machine since I did the major fluid/filter change. I found absolutely nothing in any of the filters as stated above. Do I still need to inspect the case drains?? Also, this leak began while the machine was sitting as indicated by one precise streak down the inside of the sprocket. Is that an indicator of anything significant. I did notice that parts costs are significant which is why I hoped I could find some generic part numbers and such. Does anyone have experience with companies such as finaldriveparts.com refurbishing drives? Its looking like having someone else do this for me may be a better option.
Checking the case drain for the effected side isn't a bad idea, but I don't think is completely necessary. I'm thinking you caught this in time before anything could happen. The series of events to motor failure: hub seal leaks oil out. You don't notice and continue to run it. Hub bearings run dry and start to failure. Motor rotating group preload is set by end hub. Hub starts moving because bearings are shot, rotating group beats the shit out of its self flopping around. At this point the motor is junk and the hydraulic system is full of metal. I don't think you are that far. When you remove the drive hub, the rotating assembly is right there so you will be able to tell if damage has happened. As to aftermarket parts, I'm little help. Bearings I don't have a problem looking elsewhere as long as they prove to be common. Seals I like to stick OEM to insure correct fit and performance. I think the motor is a rexoroth, not sure exact brand off the top of my head, you maybe able source OEM parts from the OEM, bypassing bobcat.
 

7LBSSMALLIE

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 2, 2012
Messages
1,294
Checking the case drain for the effected side isn't a bad idea, but I don't think is completely necessary. I'm thinking you caught this in time before anything could happen. The series of events to motor failure: hub seal leaks oil out. You don't notice and continue to run it. Hub bearings run dry and start to failure. Motor rotating group preload is set by end hub. Hub starts moving because bearings are shot, rotating group beats the shit out of its self flopping around. At this point the motor is junk and the hydraulic system is full of metal. I don't think you are that far. When you remove the drive hub, the rotating assembly is right there so you will be able to tell if damage has happened. As to aftermarket parts, I'm little help. Bearings I don't have a problem looking elsewhere as long as they prove to be common. Seals I like to stick OEM to insure correct fit and performance. I think the motor is a rexoroth, not sure exact brand off the top of my head, you maybe able source OEM parts from the OEM, bypassing bobcat.
well said...agree with all. next step pull and tear down affected side. see what you got . this shall detirme how to proceed.
 
Top