just bought my first M600

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thynes

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Mar 16, 2014
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a few more photos to bring it up to date.
still haven't figure out what would cause the pitting on the head, any takers want to venture a guess? the piston surface is completely smooth.


only had to do little bit of carbon clean up.

timing marks? I filled in the notch with pen to see it better. there is one here, that lines up with the X at TDC and there is one at 12 o'clock as well

I read that it should be 23 degrees of timing at 2k rpm. but how does one time a motor when you only have 2 lines to work with?
The pitting on your head looks like impact damage to me. It looks like something was rattling around in there, at one point. The piston smushed it up to the head. I can't tell from your pictures, but the pistons look OK, maybe the piston in question was replaced at some time in the past and the head was just reused as-is? -Tim in Mass
 

6brnorma

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Jul 13, 2011
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The pitting on your head looks like impact damage to me. It looks like something was rattling around in there, at one point. The piston smushed it up to the head. I can't tell from your pictures, but the pistons look OK, maybe the piston in question was replaced at some time in the past and the head was just reused as-is? -Tim in Mass
I'd agree with thymes………just a rebuilt engine using a head with previous damage.
 
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eboucher.6

eboucher.6

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Jan 11, 2016
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I'd agree with thymes………just a rebuilt engine using a head with previous damage.
Alright, I kind of assumed that as I knew this was a repowered unit. I figured that one out when I found the old wires to the old charging system tapped up and tucked away under the motor. just glad to get a second opinion as im new to the flat head design. the question of the day... I opened my distributer last night after finding the timing marks and the little hole to align it with and was surprised to see brass shavings under the cap... a couple of the electrodes on the cap have what looks like burn marks on it, and two of them have contact ware on them. what would be causing the distributer arm to come in contact with the electrodes? I would assume the scorch marks on the opposing terminals are because of a gap that's too big.
 

mark18mwm

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Jul 25, 2013
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240
a few more photos to bring it up to date.
still haven't figure out what would cause the pitting on the head, any takers want to venture a guess? the piston surface is completely smooth.


only had to do little bit of carbon clean up.

timing marks? I filled in the notch with pen to see it better. there is one here, that lines up with the X at TDC and there is one at 12 o'clock as well

I read that it should be 23 degrees of timing at 2k rpm. but how does one time a motor when you only have 2 lines to work with?
To time it with those marks, the way I do it is start it up with a timing light on #1 plug wire. rev it up to about 3/4 throttle (you do this to make sure the centrifugal advance in the distributor is fully advanced). loosen the distributor clamp bolt just a bit. Turn the distributor (slowly) until the timing marks line up with the timing light. Then tighten the distributor clamp and you should be all set.
 

Mikefromcny

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Nov 13, 2011
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352
To time it with those marks, the way I do it is start it up with a timing light on #1 plug wire. rev it up to about 3/4 throttle (you do this to make sure the centrifugal advance in the distributor is fully advanced). loosen the distributor clamp bolt just a bit. Turn the distributor (slowly) until the timing marks line up with the timing light. Then tighten the distributor clamp and you should be all set.
Pay no attention to the nay sayers on the clutch drive gas bobcats. I rescued my 610 after it sat outside for 4 years, and hadn't run in 10. within 2 hours it ran and moved under its own power. Fixed a bunch of small things and used it for a year. It was more trouble free then my S250. It got me through the winter of 2014, with record snowfall in upstate NY. They will work circles around a $20k compact tractor when it comes to digging, loading and moving material. They are worth something, especially if all you have is a shovel. Around here people are asking more than $6000 for a 743. 500's, 600's, 610's bring $3000-4500 in operating condition here. Heck I just paid $3200 for a rough, but functional 742. $500 gets you a used bucket. Enjoy the process of bringing it back to life, and don't be surprised if more follow you home. They are good machines that made bobcat what it is today.
 

shankatank58

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Dec 14, 2013
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Pay no attention to the nay sayers on the clutch drive gas bobcats. I rescued my 610 after it sat outside for 4 years, and hadn't run in 10. within 2 hours it ran and moved under its own power. Fixed a bunch of small things and used it for a year. It was more trouble free then my S250. It got me through the winter of 2014, with record snowfall in upstate NY. They will work circles around a $20k compact tractor when it comes to digging, loading and moving material. They are worth something, especially if all you have is a shovel. Around here people are asking more than $6000 for a 743. 500's, 600's, 610's bring $3000-4500 in operating condition here. Heck I just paid $3200 for a rough, but functional 742. $500 gets you a used bucket. Enjoy the process of bringing it back to life, and don't be surprised if more follow you home. They are good machines that made bobcat what it is today.
As for the distributor issue; I have found there are 3 reasons why the rotor might make contact with the posts (on one side) 1: the cap is not installed correctly (been there; done that) 2: a badly formed cap (becoming more common everyday) or 3: the most likely reason; the distributor bushings are worn. I'm not familiar with this particular unit, so not sure where to find parts, but it's obvious you are capable of making the repairs. They're pretty simple really. P.S. looking great; hope to find the time to do the same to mine someday.
 
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eboucher.6

eboucher.6

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Jan 11, 2016
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57
As for the distributor issue; I have found there are 3 reasons why the rotor might make contact with the posts (on one side) 1: the cap is not installed correctly (been there; done that) 2: a badly formed cap (becoming more common everyday) or 3: the most likely reason; the distributor bushings are worn. I'm not familiar with this particular unit, so not sure where to find parts, but it's obvious you are capable of making the repairs. They're pretty simple really. P.S. looking great; hope to find the time to do the same to mine someday.
So I went to the dealership today, and handed him my serial number. The man wold bit budge off the fact that "it was not a serial number" that I handed him. After I shower him a picture of the plate he just kept repeating to me that it was not going to be an easy find nor a quick one. Why is it that I called corporate and they had no issue finding my machine, I can go on their online parts catalogue and find the parts I need (cylinder seal kits and valve seals), yet the dealership is hell bent on the idea, what i gave them, is not a real serial... With that said can someone answer this for me as the man at bobcat ri couldn't. What should I expect to pay for a seal kit for each cylinder( rod and gland end) and the orings for the control valves?
 

thynes

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Mar 16, 2014
Messages
71
So I went to the dealership today, and handed him my serial number. The man wold bit budge off the fact that "it was not a serial number" that I handed him. After I shower him a picture of the plate he just kept repeating to me that it was not going to be an easy find nor a quick one. Why is it that I called corporate and they had no issue finding my machine, I can go on their online parts catalogue and find the parts I need (cylinder seal kits and valve seals), yet the dealership is hell bent on the idea, what i gave them, is not a real serial... With that said can someone answer this for me as the man at bobcat ri couldn't. What should I expect to pay for a seal kit for each cylinder( rod and gland end) and the orings for the control valves?
I rebuilt all 4 cylinders last year. The lift cylinders were p/n 7137769 and were $28.58 each. The original p/n for the lift cylinder seal kit was 6589831, but the current # is 7137769. The tilt cylinder p/n is 713771 and was $24.92. The original p/n for the tilt cylinder was 6587790. The orings for the control valve should only be a few bucks each. I uploaded a few pics from the parts manual detailing the lift and tilt valves with part numbers. Look in the photos section under Melroe M600 folder. -Tim in Mass
 
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eboucher.6

eboucher.6

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I rebuilt all 4 cylinders last year. The lift cylinders were p/n 7137769 and were $28.58 each. The original p/n for the lift cylinder seal kit was 6589831, but the current # is 7137769. The tilt cylinder p/n is 713771 and was $24.92. The original p/n for the tilt cylinder was 6587790. The orings for the control valve should only be a few bucks each. I uploaded a few pics from the parts manual detailing the lift and tilt valves with part numbers. Look in the photos section under Melroe M600 folder. -Tim in Mass
You sir are a saint. You have no idea how much bs I can avoid with this...
 

6brnorma

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Jul 13, 2011
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882
I have been in your spot before. Cheers!
You're just dealing with someone that doesn't want to bother with an older machine that involves pulling up microfiche. The best thing to do is have a parts manual and only give parts numbers as thynes has done. I have great "parts" men……but I rarely need them to pull out the old microfiche.
 
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eboucher.6

eboucher.6

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Jan 11, 2016
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You're just dealing with someone that doesn't want to bother with an older machine that involves pulling up microfiche. The best thing to do is have a parts manual and only give parts numbers as thynes has done. I have great "parts" men……but I rarely need them to pull out the old microfiche.
Just so I don't shoot my self in the foot, just in case someone changed out the cylinders on this machine. Is it possible to get the rod diameters for the tilt and lift?
 

thynes

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Mar 16, 2014
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71
Just so I don't shoot my self in the foot, just in case someone changed out the cylinders on this machine. Is it possible to get the rod diameters for the tilt and lift?
The lift rod measures at 1.250" and the tilt measures at 1.00". I had to start it up and lift the arms to tilt the blade so I could measure the tilt cylinder. It is about 30 degrees and it started right up. I think I may have woken up a neighbor, their light just turned on... -Tim in Mass
 

Bob5944

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Sep 15, 2015
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Just so I don't shoot my self in the foot, just in case someone changed out the cylinders on this machine. Is it possible to get the rod diameters for the tilt and lift?
You might give Loader Parts Source a look. http://www.loaderpartssource.com/bobcat-parts?oem_model=348&p=1
 
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eboucher.6

eboucher.6

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Jan 11, 2016
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You might give Loader Parts Source a look. http://www.loaderpartssource.com/bobcat-parts?oem_model=348&p=1
Thanks Tim, I appreciate it. I want to avoid telling the dealer what I "need" and having it be wrong... I will say, the people on this forum are a wealth of know how when it comes to the fine details that cant be found else where.
 
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eboucher.6

eboucher.6

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Thanks Tim, I appreciate it. I want to avoid telling the dealer what I "need" and having it be wrong... I will say, the people on this forum are a wealth of know how when it comes to the fine details that cant be found else where.
a passing thought, I had pulled apart the lift cylinders last night to get them all cleaned up and prepped for a rebuild. why is there a spacer sleeve on the rod? it keeps it from extending all the way, its about 3-4 inches long. is there a reason you would not want the cylinder to extend fully? possibly a safety thing?
 

SkidRoe

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Dec 10, 2009
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a passing thought, I had pulled apart the lift cylinders last night to get them all cleaned up and prepped for a rebuild. why is there a spacer sleeve on the rod? it keeps it from extending all the way, its about 3-4 inches long. is there a reason you would not want the cylinder to extend fully? possibly a safety thing?
A lot of times this is done to reduce the stroke of a standard cylinder to match the stroke required for a specific application. Another reason is to increase the bending strength of the cylinder by increasing the distance between gland and the piston.
The spacer does show up in the parts manual as a factory fitted part, p/n 6514501. Seems weird to do this as an OEM, but maybe it was required to make the lift geometry work, overcome a strength issue or prevent a stability issue from the boom over travelling.
HTH - SR
 
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eboucher.6

eboucher.6

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Jan 11, 2016
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A lot of times this is done to reduce the stroke of a standard cylinder to match the stroke required for a specific application. Another reason is to increase the bending strength of the cylinder by increasing the distance between gland and the piston.
The spacer does show up in the parts manual as a factory fitted part, p/n 6514501. Seems weird to do this as an OEM, but maybe it was required to make the lift geometry work, overcome a strength issue or prevent a stability issue from the boom over travelling.
HTH - SR
i really need to get my hands on a copy of this document... anyone wanna sell me one :)?
 
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