Float Position?

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memphisdoug

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Joined
Mar 19, 2010
Messages
15
I'm a new owner of a Bobcat 873. In the operator's manual, they speak of a float position for the lift arms to allow leveling of surfaces. They talk about pushing the toe end of the lift arm pedal down until it is in the "detent position". If I try to do that with the bucket tilted down all it does is lift the front of the Bobcat off the ground. There doesn't seem to be a "detent position" for that pedal. What am I doing wrong or not understanding
 

2005DMAX

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Jan 9, 2010
Messages
13
Lower the lift arms all the way down, and then push forward quickly and firmly on the foot pedal. You should feel the detent.
 

jerry

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May 3, 2007
Messages
2,043
Lower the lift arms all the way down, and then push forward quickly and firmly on the foot pedal. You should feel the detent.
When it seems to lift the front end just wait a second and it should stop. In the float position you are taking the weight of the bucket, lift boom and all that off the front end and it gets very light. I thought the same with the New Holland but with it in float back up a little and the front will go down.
 

wings5j

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Jan 7, 2008
Messages
190
When it seems to lift the front end just wait a second and it should stop. In the float position you are taking the weight of the bucket, lift boom and all that off the front end and it gets very light. I thought the same with the New Holland but with it in float back up a little and the front will go down.
2005 DMax has the right solution: lift arms all the way down. I usually have the bucket tipped up so it isn't touching. After going into the float position I then tilt the bucket to the desired angle for back grading, etc. It works really well and is primarily used in reverse. Once you have completed a pass in reverse, if you have room to tilt the bucket clear, you can move back and forth staying in "float". If you have to raise the lift arms, it will come out of "float" and you will have to reset it for the next pass. Be careful when grading downhill backwards as it may ocassionaly lift the front end and scare you a bit. The float position is also useful for snow plowing with a snow blade and in this case you can use if going forward ;-) Good luck, it is a nice feature and it comes in handy. John
 
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memphisdoug

Member
Joined
Mar 19, 2010
Messages
15
2005 DMax has the right solution: lift arms all the way down. I usually have the bucket tipped up so it isn't touching. After going into the float position I then tilt the bucket to the desired angle for back grading, etc. It works really well and is primarily used in reverse. Once you have completed a pass in reverse, if you have room to tilt the bucket clear, you can move back and forth staying in "float". If you have to raise the lift arms, it will come out of "float" and you will have to reset it for the next pass. Be careful when grading downhill backwards as it may ocassionaly lift the front end and scare you a bit. The float position is also useful for snow plowing with a snow blade and in this case you can use if going forward ;-) Good luck, it is a nice feature and it comes in handy. John
Got to try this out last night. Sure enough it worked just as everyone said. Thanks for the advice!
 

mrfixitpaul

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Joined
Mar 28, 2009
Messages
365
Does the 763 have Float Mode?
Yes, it should have float. If it hasn't been used for a while the dent balls/springs can rust up and stick, making it difficult to engage. Try stepping solidly on the front of the lift pedal and see if it clicks into float.
 

gtstang462002

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 27, 2010
Messages
77
Yes, it should have float. If it hasn't been used for a while the dent balls/springs can rust up and stick, making it difficult to engage. Try stepping solidly on the front of the lift pedal and see if it clicks into float.
Careful with mashing on a float detent that hasn't been used in a while. I just rebuild the detent system on mine because it was stuck in float mode and no amount of mashing the other direction was releasing it. Good news is the parts were about $120 new from bobcat to do the repair but that doesn't count the 4 hours to get that awkward valve out and back in. I guess now that I have done one it wont take as long to do the next one.
 
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