Alas, that is not the case. Both the boot retainers in front and spring/detent caps in rear are "two-eared". Has anybody here actually done this operation, with the valve still installed? I have two new hurdles here: 1) the flat bar (bellcrank?) that transfers motion from the LH pedal (lift) to the valve on the right is pretty much blocking access to the lower two valve spools. I have disconnected that bar from the pedal so I can move it out of the way as much as possible, but it soon hits a fitting on that Block that had the oh-so-tight hose fitting. It looks to me like the pivot for that bar is under the hydrostatic pump and could only be disconnected there if the pump is out... ugh! 2) It looks like the spools are too long to clear several of the hard lines back there as they come out, guess I will have to use my crowfoot wrenches some more and move those lines? The seal kit I have (#6816251) has a lot more parts than it looks like I need. I'm guessing that's because it is a "one size fits all" kit with parts for several of the different valve variants, correct? The tag on the valve reads "909809", if that means anything to somebody...
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antfarmer2
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Look up Tazza and email him........but that cross bar linkage is held on by one nut on top of the chain case since your engine is out you can get to it by takeing off 18 of the 20 bolts that hold the chain case to the body just leave the front 2 on but loose and jack the body up to get to it from what I have read you can get the spools out by bending the pipes just becareful not to bend the spools at all
antfarmer2
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Also if you do it this way you will have to remove the two front mount bolts off the front of the pump and support the pump
I got all the valve spools and such out, without disturbing the linkage bar any more. Now I have a new dilemma as I embark on re-assembly. The housing bores have the "long chamfer", at least on the rear where I can reasonably see/measure. The manual specifies using lip-seals with that config, but what was in there was quad-seals. I bought this thing used in about '98, but there is no sign of this valve ever having been disturbed before. Paint intact on the screws, boots, and boot retainers, that sort of indication of being all OEM. Did these "long chamfer" valves originally come with quad-rings, is the lip-seal an "upgrade"? I hate to deviate from what was in there originally, but am going to use the lip-seals in absence of any other input...
antfarmer2
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I would email Tazza with that ?
So, i'm a little late to the party....
You have done well getting the spools out, as you have noticed access is not awesome, but it can be done. If needed, just bend the hard tube lines, don't remove them unless you really need to.
As for the seals, this control block runs quad rings, not lip seals. The newer mcahines run lip seals though. If you buy a seal kit from the dealer it will contain both lip seals and quad rings as it covers multiple models that you use match what you take out to put back in. Every 743 i have fiddled with has run quad rings.
When you slide them back in, ensure they are all oiled up. I go slowly and rotate it side to side to try and not pinch the seal and damage it.
I'd also recommend replacing the rubber boots over the exposed end (linkage end) of the spool if they were not already done. The old ones were plactic, the new ones are rubber. You remove the old one from the metal fastener including the brass spacer and push the rubber one in (no spacer now). You don't want water getting in rusting the spool.
You have done really well getting up to this point, hopefully it will go smoother from here.
The biggest issue you may hav coming is the detent balls, but with the engine out, it is much easier to get them back in. I used a large cable tie to hold the balls/spring then slid the cover over and cut the tie.
You have my email, just yell if you need assistance again
Aw, that's not what I wanted to hear! I already have the bottom section, most miserable to reach, back together. I have emailed you (Tazza) the manual section that specifies using the lip-seal. Take a look and then let's talk. Yes, boots are being replaced and I had to disconnect one end of two lines to even bend them enough to get the two lower spools out. The detent and spring stuff is no problem because I am doing R & R of the spools with that stuff attached. I get to put the detent sleeve back on while it is out in the open.
antfarmer2
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The good part is you have done it once be better the second time
Ok, now i see what you mean.
The valves i have done all had an internal groove machined into them so you had to use the quad rings to seal it. Does your control block have the long chamfer like what is shown in the manual? if so, it does sound like the lip seal is what you need.
If you look at the two pages up from the last one where it shows the lip seal, you will see one has a parallel hole with a short chamfer, then one with a notch. The notch style is the one i have always encountered.
It may just be a valve like i have not seen before, if all the diagrams agree and the lip seal is what is meant to go in there, you are doing it the right way already.
antfarmer2
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I will need to do mine sometime so am learning too if bill's had the quad ring in there was the lip seal a upgrade I am confused
Mine is definitely the "long chamfer", .145" long and a steeper-than-45 angle. I'm hoping the lip-seal IS an upgrade. The second spool up is also beating me up. All went easier except the one screw on the linkage end next to the frame. I'll probably have to cut-up (another) hex-key to be "just the right length" to get that one tight.
antfarmer2
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I think I would put the quad ring in if thats what came out
I didn't do much with it today, I lost one hair-clip for the linkage and one E-ring for the detent cover; hopefully those will be in-stock at my dealer tomorrow. The valve is all together (except for hair-clip), but I elected to use the lip-seals. As said before, I was reluctant to deviate from what was in there before (quad-ring), and we all know that manuals may have errors. However, the manual clearly specifies the lip-seals for my application, and I, personally, have more confidence with the basic lip-seal concept than quads. I am not insisting I am right, just that it was my decision to make... Now for the *amusing* part of this saga: Remember the hose that was too tight for me to remove, except by unwinding the hose and fitting as a unit? I feel putting it back that way, getting the fitting started straight in block, with the rather rigid hose and its 90 deg. bend. would be hard. So I really wanted to get the hose loose from the fitting, install the fitting first, then use the "swivel" nature of the hose nut. I clamped the fitting VERY securely in a vise, put a heavy-duty Crescent wrench (yes, made by Crescent Tool in Jamestown NY) on the hose nut, then apply torque with a 6' cheater-pipe. All that did was to round that one set of flats. However, it seemed like maybe the wrench jaws were giving (springing) a bit, so I went back to the crowfoot. Using heat on the nut and the crowfoot, I succeeded in rounding another set of flats. Oh, crap... I then resorted to a pipe wrench, not very big (12"), but it has done many jobs with cheater pipes on its handle. I set the pipe wrench in place and tugged lightly on the handle to "seat" it before slipping on the cheater-pipe. That light tug loosened the nut!!! WTF??? I said before that there was no rust on this beast, but was wrong. Everything was bright metal (some dry, some oily), EXCEPT for the threads. Those were corroded on both the nut and fitting. They are fine for re-use, but obviously had a gorilla-grip on each other.
I'm hoping the lip seals do their job for you.
Wow, that sure is tight. Could it be thread sealant?
You are spot on with the twisting a hard hose, it's not a lot of fun trying to get it to line back up on the fitting square. It feels right then you use a spanner to get it down and notice it's cross threading. Oh so many times i have done this.
Yes, I am suspicious of it being thread sealant/locker myself. That's one reason I referred to it as "corrosion", not "rust". It didn't look red/brown, more whitish like you see on tin or zinc plating. But, thread sealant also looks similar once it is busted loose... Now I wish I had examined it more closely with a magnifier, but too late for that. I was just thrilled to get it loose and be able to move on with the re-assembly
antfarmer2
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Hopeing for the best for you let us know how is works will be there some day
The engine is sitting in there, just inside the rear lip of the frame. The *only* difficult task left is to line up that spline and push the engine forward. Any suggestions? I have the starter-motor out, and somebody had previously cut away part of the fan shroud on the left side by the spline area, so I *theoretically" can get my hand in to grab the U-joint, Still, it looks like it is going to be a SOB...
OldMachinist
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Most times its a 2 person job. One to reach in and line up the coupling plus another to push the engine in and turn the engine if needed to get the splines lined up.
antfarmer2
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I had my rad oil cooler and muffler out whe I did mine so much easyer just reached in the shroud and lined it up with a chain host holding up the engin and got it close then put a rag on the spline on the back of the engin and wiggled it as I pushed the engin in by myself if you don't have a hoist I would put a block of wood under the engine to keep the mounts from hanging up on the lip and do the same thing maybe crow bar it in as you wiggle make sure you grease it up good first harder after it is in
For once in this job, something went easier than I expected. It took several tries to get the spline lined-up, but probably 15 minutes or less. Nothing tricky about it, just turn the crank a bit and try, try again. I was able to get my hand in from the LF of the fan shroud to hold the U-joint hub in position for initial engagement and to feel if it was still loose enough for the next crank-turn attempt. I just have to refill the hydraulic reservoir now. If my other chores today go quick enough, maybe I will be able to fire up the 743 this afternoon and report back tonight!
