I didn't do much with it today, I lost one hair-clip for the linkage and one E-ring for the detent cover; hopefully those will be in-stock at my dealer tomorrow. The valve is all together (except for hair-clip), but I elected to use the lip-seals. As said before, I was reluctant to deviate from what was in there before (quad-ring), and we all know that manuals may have errors. However, the manual clearly specifies the lip-seals for my application, and I, personally, have more confidence with the basic lip-seal concept than quads. I am not insisting I am right, just that it was my decision to make... Now for the *amusing* part of this saga: Remember the hose that was too tight for me to remove, except by unwinding the hose and fitting as a unit? I feel putting it back that way, getting the fitting started straight in block, with the rather rigid hose and its 90 deg. bend. would be hard. So I really wanted to get the hose loose from the fitting, install the fitting first, then use the "swivel" nature of the hose nut. I clamped the fitting VERY securely in a vise, put a heavy-duty Crescent wrench (yes, made by Crescent Tool in Jamestown NY) on the hose nut, then apply torque with a 6' cheater-pipe. All that did was to round that one set of flats. However, it seemed like maybe the wrench jaws were giving (springing) a bit, so I went back to the crowfoot. Using heat on the nut and the crowfoot, I succeeded in rounding another set of flats. Oh, crap... I then resorted to a pipe wrench, not very big (12"), but it has done many jobs with cheater pipes on its handle. I set the pipe wrench in place and tugged lightly on the handle to "seat" it before slipping on the cheater-pipe. That light tug loosened the nut!!! WTF??? I said before that there was no rust on this beast, but was wrong. Everything was bright metal (some dry, some oily), EXCEPT for the threads. Those were corroded on both the nut and fitting. They are fine for re-use, but obviously had a gorilla-grip on each other.