763G Controller and other issues

[shadwarr1]

Hey all, first post here. So I've acquired a 763G with some issues. First, the controller needs to be replaced because the PO (previous owner) sunk it in a mud hole awhile back and shorted it out. But he bypassed the controller and has been running it like that for a year! The thing I'm wondering, is this something I can just order and throw it in or does the dealer have to program the thing? I have the standard instrumentation with the key switch, so no 4 digit codes to start. Is it just the hours from the old that get transfered to the new? Because I don't see how they could since the old controller is fried! Other issues include replacing the hold solenoid for the stop/run on the back of the motor. Also the parking brake. Well....... the solenoid is gone and PO stuck a screw driver in the hole with a pair of vise grips to hold it from engaging the brake I guess? Ugh! Sorry for the long post, just trying to get all the issues that I can think of off the bat. This machine is completely new to me (new to skid steers period!), but I'm a very fast learner. One more note, the part no. off the controller I understand, but what's the serial number for? Is that suppose to match the machine serial number? Because it doesn't. PO bought it from someone who had 2 - 763G's. 1 caught fire, 1 had no paper work, so took the S/N plate off the burned 1, and put that on the 1 with no paper work (which was lost, supposedly). I have no way to contact PO (died in a tragic fire). I sure hope I'm not gonna get screwed! Thanks in advance for any and all help!

 

[Fishfiles]

Thats a messed up situation , I think before I spent any money or time on it , I would try and figure out what you got , it sure sounds pretty fishy to me " NO Papers " , even though there really isn't any papers that follow the machine short of a bill of sale , the original buyer usually gets a paper called something like " a certificate of origin " that doesn't follow over to the next person who buys it , I would say have it scanned by a dealer to retrive the serial number that way but you say the controller is fried , there are serial numbers punched into the machine , I would call the dealer with those and have them check if the machine was ever reported stolen before do anything

 

[shadwarr1]

Thats a messed up situation , I think before I spent any money or time on it , I would try and figure out what you got , it sure sounds pretty fishy to me " NO Papers " , even though there really isn't any papers that follow the machine short of a bill of sale , the original buyer usually gets a paper called something like " a certificate of origin " that doesn't follow over to the next person who buys it , I would say have it scanned by a dealer to retrive the serial number that way but you say the controller is fried , there are serial numbers punched into the machine , I would call the dealer with those and have them check if the machine was ever reported stolen before do anything

Yeah, I know. I'm not into buying "hot" items, but I know the person who inherited the machine from his father (the one that died). He seems pretty sure it's legal. The issue with the serial numbers is, I will be getting paper work (still in limbo from the estate) for the serial number plate that's attached on the left rear side above the rear engine door. Are the last 6 digits suppose to match the serial number on the controller? Because they do NOT! If I ever do get this sorted out, am I still going to have to get the controller programed by the dealer?

 

[Tazza]

Yeah, I know. I'm not into buying "hot" items, but I know the person who inherited the machine from his father (the one that died). He seems pretty sure it's legal. The issue with the serial numbers is, I will be getting paper work (still in limbo from the estate) for the serial number plate that's attached on the left rear side above the rear engine door. Are the last 6 digits suppose to match the serial number on the controller? Because they do NOT! If I ever do get this sorted out, am I still going to have to get the controller programed by the dealer?

The controller will need to be done by the dealer. They need to plug it in to activate 'features' hopefully its not an expensive job for them to do.
As for the controller, i thought they were sealed. Even if it went under water, it should not have fried it. I'd suspect a wiring issue before the controller. Start with the fuse box, just to be sure.
I don't think the controller needs to have the same number as your machines serial though, but i may be wrong here.

 

[mrfixitpaul]

The controller will need to be done by the dealer. They need to plug it in to activate 'features' hopefully its not an expensive job for them to do.
As for the controller, i thought they were sealed. Even if it went under water, it should not have fried it. I'd suspect a wiring issue before the controller. Start with the fuse box, just to be sure.
I don't think the controller needs to have the same number as your machines serial though, but i may be wrong here.

I have seen machines swimming with water up to the seat, once dried out the controller still worked, but others will fry if you look at them wrong. The serial numbers on the controller won't be the same as the machine. The dealer may be able to order a controller already programmed, or it only takes them a few minutes to program it once it is in the machine.

 

[shadwarr1]

I have seen machines swimming with water up to the seat, once dried out the controller still worked, but others will fry if you look at them wrong. The serial numbers on the controller won't be the same as the machine. The dealer may be able to order a controller already programmed, or it only takes them a few minutes to program it once it is in the machine.

The board inside the box is encapsulated in a rubber epoxy, but he scraped some of the epoxy off when he took it apart so it could be fried now. Supposedly this thing sat in a mud hole for 2 weeks!!! I can't believe it didn't cause problems to the motor and/or chain case. The box that contains the computer board has holes to allow for ventilation I guess. I'm gonna try and clean up the fuse panel as well, as some of the fuses are corroded, and check the 100 amp master fuse. The controller is by-passed with a wire straight from the battery wired to a push button starter and other places I'm assuming to bypass the BICS system. Maybe I'll get lucky, but I'm still betting the controller will have to be replaced. I'll give the dealer a call hopefully they can just program the thing and I can just pick it up and install it myself without taking the machine in. Would like to get this working so I can use the aux. hyd. controls, as they don't work without the controller and the use of the parking brake! Thanks for all your help!

 

[shadwarr1]

The board inside the box is encapsulated in a rubber epoxy, but he scraped some of the epoxy off when he took it apart so it could be fried now. Supposedly this thing sat in a mud hole for 2 weeks!!! I can't believe it didn't cause problems to the motor and/or chain case. The box that contains the computer board has holes to allow for ventilation I guess. I'm gonna try and clean up the fuse panel as well, as some of the fuses are corroded, and check the 100 amp master fuse. The controller is by-passed with a wire straight from the battery wired to a push button starter and other places I'm assuming to bypass the BICS system. Maybe I'll get lucky, but I'm still betting the controller will have to be replaced. I'll give the dealer a call hopefully they can just program the thing and I can just pick it up and install it myself without taking the machine in. Would like to get this working so I can use the aux. hyd. controls, as they don't work without the controller and the use of the parking brake! Thanks for all your help!

Just thought I'd post an update (and another question). I contacted my local dealer and had them run the serial number and it's NOT reported stolen. I also found out the reason the s/n plates were swapped had to do with the machine being sold to a business before previous owner had it and they had to have some kind of paper work on it before they would buy it (don't know why). So as far as I can tell it was never stolen thank god. So I ordered a sh*t load of parts! Belts, filters, hyd. fluid, controller, parking brake solenoid, drive belt tensioner pulley and fuel cut-off solenoid. It's been a pain trying to put all the wiring back to way it was, but I got it done. Question though, the machine runs great, except for the aux. hydraulics. Or rather, I can attach my 4-1 bucket, but it will only open the bucket with the right trigger no matter if it's variable flow or max flow. The right slid switch does nothing in either flow position. Is this something that will have to be programed by the dealer? I haven't had the controller programed yet. They have to program it in the machine, but at least it works for the most part. Also I need to have some hours that are relatively close to what it should be. Although it is nice seeing only 0.4 hours on it right now! Haha! Again, thanks for the help. This site has been a wealth of info.

 

[mrfixitpaul]

Just thought I'd post an update (and another question). I contacted my local dealer and had them run the serial number and it's NOT reported stolen. I also found out the reason the s/n plates were swapped had to do with the machine being sold to a business before previous owner had it and they had to have some kind of paper work on it before they would buy it (don't know why). So as far as I can tell it was never stolen thank god. So I ordered a sh*t load of parts! Belts, filters, hyd. fluid, controller, parking brake solenoid, drive belt tensioner pulley and fuel cut-off solenoid. It's been a pain trying to put all the wiring back to way it was, but I got it done. Question though, the machine runs great, except for the aux. hydraulics. Or rather, I can attach my 4-1 bucket, but it will only open the bucket with the right trigger no matter if it's variable flow or max flow. The right slid switch does nothing in either flow position. Is this something that will have to be programed by the dealer? I haven't had the controller programed yet. They have to program it in the machine, but at least it works for the most part. Also I need to have some hours that are relatively close to what it should be. Although it is nice seeing only 0.4 hours on it right now! Haha! Again, thanks for the help. This site has been a wealth of info.

If the trigger works the auxiliaries but the paddle switch doesn't it's either wiring or more likely a bad switch in the handle.

 

[shadwarr1]

If the trigger works the auxiliaries but the paddle switch doesn't it's either wiring or more likely a bad switch in the handle.

Hmm... I pulled the cover off the handle and saw the metal housing's on all the switchs are rusted, but the switchs seem to move like they're suppose to. I guess I'm gonna have to stare at the wiring schematic to figure out which wire goes to which switch.

 

[skidsteer.ca]

Hmm... I pulled the cover off the handle and saw the metal housing's on all the switchs are rusted, but the switchs seem to move like they're suppose to. I guess I'm gonna have to stare at the wiring schematic to figure out which wire goes to which switch.

All machines have aux hyd so it should be programed for that. The dealer just programs the copmputer to turn on options like bucket positioning and hi flow, you likely have neither. He also sets the hours to the last know reading from the old controller, but not in your case I guess.
I would think you have a wiring or stem issue with the aux spool on the main hydraulic valve.
Try swapping the electric coils to see if the problem now occures when the flow is in the oposite dirrection. Ie when you try to close your bucket. Coils and stems (inside the coils) are located on the top od the main valve body (what you foot pedal linkage hooks too) Undo the single nut holding the black coil onto the stem, slide it up a 1/2" and activated the switch on the steering lever, if the coil is working and getting power it will pull itself onto the stem. Try that for both side first.
Ken

 

[shadwarr1]

All machines have aux hyd so it should be programed for that. The dealer just programs the copmputer to turn on options like bucket positioning and hi flow, you likely have neither. He also sets the hours to the last know reading from the old controller, but not in your case I guess.
I would think you have a wiring or stem issue with the aux spool on the main hydraulic valve.
Try swapping the electric coils to see if the problem now occures when the flow is in the oposite dirrection. Ie when you try to close your bucket. Coils and stems (inside the coils) are located on the top od the main valve body (what you foot pedal linkage hooks too) Undo the single nut holding the black coil onto the stem, slide it up a 1/2" and activated the switch on the steering lever, if the coil is working and getting power it will pull itself onto the stem. Try that for both side first.
Ken

Thanks Ken I will try that. One thing I'm wondering would the trigger switch activate the aux. hyd. even though the light on the display indicates variable flow position? Because it doesn't matter if it's in var. or max flow, it acts like the machine thinks its in max flow. Because pulling the trigger and realeasing opens the bucket, then I have to push the trigger switch again to get it to turn off. Another thing, how would I know if the bobcat has bucket positioning and hi flow? I have the buttons on the left display, but they do nothing when pushed, assuming they would have to be turned on by dealer if the machine has the components (besides just the buttons on the display) to do so.

 

[Iowa Dave]

Just thought I'd post an update (and another question). I contacted my local dealer and had them run the serial number and it's NOT reported stolen. I also found out the reason the s/n plates were swapped had to do with the machine being sold to a business before previous owner had it and they had to have some kind of paper work on it before they would buy it (don't know why). So as far as I can tell it was never stolen thank god. So I ordered a sh*t load of parts! Belts, filters, hyd. fluid, controller, parking brake solenoid, drive belt tensioner pulley and fuel cut-off solenoid. It's been a pain trying to put all the wiring back to way it was, but I got it done. Question though, the machine runs great, except for the aux. hydraulics. Or rather, I can attach my 4-1 bucket, but it will only open the bucket with the right trigger no matter if it's variable flow or max flow. The right slid switch does nothing in either flow position. Is this something that will have to be programed by the dealer? I haven't had the controller programed yet. They have to program it in the machine, but at least it works for the most part. Also I need to have some hours that are relatively close to what it should be. Although it is nice seeing only 0.4 hours on it right now! Haha! Again, thanks for the help. This site has been a wealth of info.

If you ran the # on the plate, that doesn't mean a thing. Run the REAL number (stamped underneath the frame). Of course the tag is good--whoever switched it knew it was a clean tag. I'd bet $$ that the REAL number is HOT.

 

[shadwarr1]

If you ran the # on the plate, that doesn't mean a thing. Run the REAL number (stamped underneath the frame). Of course the tag is good--whoever switched it knew it was a clean tag. I'd bet $$ that the REAL number is HOT.

Where under the frame is the other number located?

 

[mrfixitpaul]

Where under the frame is the other number located?

Sometimes the # can be found stamped into the front of the chaincase, sometimes on one of the rear axle tubes.