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Worn out Grouser Over Tire Tracks
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<blockquote data-quote="tech.35058" data-source="post: 123938" data-attributes="member: 14347"><p>Feeling guilty about not getting maintenance handled on my machine,</p><p>I finally looked again at replacing the bolts & bushings in my tracks.</p><p>I could not get the "dealer locator"on Gousers web site to work</p><p>( posibly due to incredibly slow internet out here), and their "800"</p><p>number also failed to work for me, so I used the "contact" form on the</p><p>website.</p><p> in a very few moments, my phone rang, some one from Gouser called me.</p><p>He looked up several businessess for me that had been dealers, ordered</p><p>track parts in the past. Also mentioned that the #7512 link between the</p><p>track pads was designed to be assembled with the stamped part number</p><p>(7512) to the inside of the track, with the raised casting number to the</p><p>out side, but the instructions distributed with new tracks had a</p><p>typo-error, got this part backwards. They were including a correction</p><p>notice with the booklets to new purchasers. I did not check every one,</p><p>but at least the one I could still make out the numbers on was backwards.</p><p>There are ( or in my case, might have been) flanges or something that</p><p>increased the life of the track if correctly assembled, shortened track</p><p>life if backwards.</p><p> Other tips too, that if both the inner bolt holes were used used, it</p><p>over stressed the tracks, & damaged them using the inner bolt hole on</p><p>one side is ok, though.</p><p>Tracks are designed to "run loose", 1 to 3 inches sag. I think I am out</p><p>of spec on the track bolts in places, and one track may be too tight,</p><p>the other too loose. ( I cant imagine how that happened.)</p><p>My experience, track sag changes depending on the direction of travel.</p><p> They also sent me a guide about welding to build up tracks. I will</p><p>upload.</p><p> they also declined to sell me the track bolts & bushings directly, </p><p>not wanting to infringe on the territory of their authorized dealers.</p><p> I did locate the track & bushing set on Ebay. they were $10 each, with</p><p>a discount if you bought more than one. I have 19 pads per side, but if</p><p>I take up all that wear, I will probably have to put the spare pads back</p><p>in, so ... that's 160 x $10= $1600 just for the bolts,lock nuts & bushings.</p><p>According to the parts pdf, they are just grade 5 carriage bolts. </p><p>( which I can buy by the pound locally.) The bushings would take a</p><p>little more doing, but I can see getting a chop saw & some hot rolled</p><p>round bar stock. I can see setting up a jig or something on my drill</p><p>press. The bushing is the intended sacrificial wear point. Obviously, I</p><p>am spending my time, instead of money.</p><p> The "Stoody" electrodes to build up the tracks are also not the</p><p>discount priced items, not to mention the investment of time. If I cant</p><p>afford the dealers bolts, I cant afford to pay a professional welder by</p><p>the hour to build up my tracks. any way, here are the welding build up</p><p>instructions. Enjoy.</p><p> Another thread mentions simply welding a a bar on top of each track bar.</p><p>That would avoid the breakage due to embrittlement issue some what.</p><p>And, that is what the guys in the "big tractor shop" did back when I was an employee.</p><p>( they had an OEM bar to add on, I think. obviously, I was not a welder).</p><p>Think happy thoughts ... CE</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="tech.35058, post: 123938, member: 14347"] Feeling guilty about not getting maintenance handled on my machine, I finally looked again at replacing the bolts & bushings in my tracks. I could not get the "dealer locator"on Gousers web site to work ( posibly due to incredibly slow internet out here), and their "800" number also failed to work for me, so I used the "contact" form on the website. in a very few moments, my phone rang, some one from Gouser called me. He looked up several businessess for me that had been dealers, ordered track parts in the past. Also mentioned that the #7512 link between the track pads was designed to be assembled with the stamped part number (7512) to the inside of the track, with the raised casting number to the out side, but the instructions distributed with new tracks had a typo-error, got this part backwards. They were including a correction notice with the booklets to new purchasers. I did not check every one, but at least the one I could still make out the numbers on was backwards. There are ( or in my case, might have been) flanges or something that increased the life of the track if correctly assembled, shortened track life if backwards. Other tips too, that if both the inner bolt holes were used used, it over stressed the tracks, & damaged them using the inner bolt hole on one side is ok, though. Tracks are designed to "run loose", 1 to 3 inches sag. I think I am out of spec on the track bolts in places, and one track may be too tight, the other too loose. ( I cant imagine how that happened.) My experience, track sag changes depending on the direction of travel. They also sent me a guide about welding to build up tracks. I will upload. they also declined to sell me the track bolts & bushings directly, not wanting to infringe on the territory of their authorized dealers. I did locate the track & bushing set on Ebay. they were $10 each, with a discount if you bought more than one. I have 19 pads per side, but if I take up all that wear, I will probably have to put the spare pads back in, so ... that's 160 x $10= $1600 just for the bolts,lock nuts & bushings. According to the parts pdf, they are just grade 5 carriage bolts. ( which I can buy by the pound locally.) The bushings would take a little more doing, but I can see getting a chop saw & some hot rolled round bar stock. I can see setting up a jig or something on my drill press. The bushing is the intended sacrificial wear point. Obviously, I am spending my time, instead of money. The "Stoody" electrodes to build up the tracks are also not the discount priced items, not to mention the investment of time. If I cant afford the dealers bolts, I cant afford to pay a professional welder by the hour to build up my tracks. any way, here are the welding build up instructions. Enjoy. Another thread mentions simply welding a a bar on top of each track bar. That would avoid the breakage due to embrittlement issue some what. And, that is what the guys in the "big tractor shop" did back when I was an employee. ( they had an OEM bar to add on, I think. obviously, I was not a welder). Think happy thoughts ... CE [/QUOTE]
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