Turn the key and get one click and all the lights go out.

[ranchhopper]

I had a fuel gelling issue yesterday the machine would start and not run steady past half throttle. I went and got the proper anti gel today poured it in the tank got back in the seat turned the key. The glow plugs activated and the fuel pump was running glow plugs shut off then I turned the key one click sounded like it was in the engine compartment and all the lights went dead on the control panel. Tried it again and same situation so I waited a minute and tried turning the key and no control panel lights or any electric no click everything dead. This is a new one on me would appreciate any tips on what it wrong. Yesterday it started fine just wouldn't run at a high idle due to fuel gelling.

 

[foton]

sounds like battery connections or battery itself.

 

[ranchhopper]

sounds like battery connections or battery itself.

Didn't check it yet usually battery makes multiple clicks when weak but it needs to be checked to rule it out.

 

[ranchhopper]

Didn't check it yet usually battery makes multiple clicks when weak but it needs to be checked to rule it out.

Update: I had time to go through some of the electrical system today the battery checks out good. I pulled the fuses and no bad ones odd thing before I pulled the 5 amp fuse when I turned the key on it wouldn't do anything. After pulling the 5 amp fuse and putting it back in when I turned the key all the panel lights lit up fuel pump went on and seat belt warning went on. I turned the key and heard the same loud click in the engine compartment and everything went dead again turned the key off and back on and nothing. I went back a few minutes later turned the key and all the lights on the panel lit up fuel pump went on same thing all over again. Whatever the problem is its tripping some kind of breaker in the engine compartment.

 

[Mike10]

Update: I had time to go through some of the electrical system today the battery checks out good. I pulled the fuses and no bad ones odd thing before I pulled the 5 amp fuse when I turned the key on it wouldn't do anything. After pulling the 5 amp fuse and putting it back in when I turned the key all the panel lights lit up fuel pump went on and seat belt warning went on. I turned the key and heard the same loud click in the engine compartment and everything went dead again turned the key off and back on and nothing. I went back a few minutes later turned the key and all the lights on the panel lit up fuel pump went on same thing all over again. Whatever the problem is its tripping some kind of breaker in the engine compartment.

If the instrument panel lights only come on when you turn the key on, then the operator restraint system is not working. Power comes from the 5a fuse in engine fuse and relay box. From the fuse power goes to the seat harness connector behind the seat. From the connector power goes to the seat switch connector. When the seat switch is depressed power is sent to the instrument panel and the instrument panel lights come on and the panel goes through a self test. Now, depending if the seat harness has been updated, power will go from the seat switch to the seat belt connector when the seat switch is depressed. Fastening the seat belt will send power to the instrument panel which will cause the seat belt light to go out. If the seat harness has been updated, power will go directly to the seat belt from the seat switch connector bypassing the seat switch....... So, with the key off, enter the loader while watching the instrument panel. When you sit in the seat the panel should light up and go through the self test. Fastening the seat belt will put out the seat belt light........The click you hear is the glow plug relay............The only other time the lights will come on when the key is turned on is when the service run switch is in the service position. Not likely your problem since the service run switch bypasses the operator restraint circuit.

 

[ranchhopper]

If the instrument panel lights only come on when you turn the key on, then the operator restraint system is not working. Power comes from the 5a fuse in engine fuse and relay box. From the fuse power goes to the seat harness connector behind the seat. From the connector power goes to the seat switch connector. When the seat switch is depressed power is sent to the instrument panel and the instrument panel lights come on and the panel goes through a self test. Now, depending if the seat harness has been updated, power will go from the seat switch to the seat belt connector when the seat switch is depressed. Fastening the seat belt will send power to the instrument panel which will cause the seat belt light to go out. If the seat harness has been updated, power will go directly to the seat belt from the seat switch connector bypassing the seat switch....... So, with the key off, enter the loader while watching the instrument panel. When you sit in the seat the panel should light up and go through the self test. Fastening the seat belt will put out the seat belt light........The click you hear is the glow plug relay............The only other time the lights will come on when the key is turned on is when the service run switch is in the service position. Not likely your problem since the service run switch bypasses the operator restraint circuit.

I did a little more poking around today I went and disconnected the white wire from starter solenoid went into the machine and sat in the seat and as the previous post pointed out everything went through its usual routine. The glow plugs cycled and the fuel pump was running. I turned the key and it did not kill all the lights on the instrument panel I jumped the starter from the spade terminal the white wire went to the hot side of the solenoid. I only got an occasional click but no starter action I tapped the starter with a hammer and it clicked again but the Bendix never rotated. I don't have a wiring schematic so Im not sure the white wire going to the spade connector on the starter was the right one to jump to the hot side of the solenoid or not. This will be really fun if its really the starter with it sitting in the garage arms down looks like pulling the belly pan may be my only option.

 

[ranchhopper]

If the instrument panel lights only come on when you turn the key on, then the operator restraint system is not working. Power comes from the 5a fuse in engine fuse and relay box. From the fuse power goes to the seat harness connector behind the seat. From the connector power goes to the seat switch connector. When the seat switch is depressed power is sent to the instrument panel and the instrument panel lights come on and the panel goes through a self test. Now, depending if the seat harness has been updated, power will go from the seat switch to the seat belt connector when the seat switch is depressed. Fastening the seat belt will send power to the instrument panel which will cause the seat belt light to go out. If the seat harness has been updated, power will go directly to the seat belt from the seat switch connector bypassing the seat switch....... So, with the key off, enter the loader while watching the instrument panel. When you sit in the seat the panel should light up and go through the self test. Fastening the seat belt will put out the seat belt light........The click you hear is the glow plug relay............The only other time the lights will come on when the key is turned on is when the service run switch is in the service position. Not likely your problem since the service run switch bypasses the operator restraint circuit.

Thanks for the suggestion I went through all the things you brought up and Im pretty sure that's not where my problem lies.

 

[Mike10]

Thanks for the suggestion I went through all the things you brought up and Im pretty sure that's not where my problem lies.

Time to get the volt meter out. Connect your white wire. You can check the voltage at that terminal. You may need someone watching the meter as you attempt to crank. If the voltage drops below 8v, then you probably have a battery or battery cable connection issue. When those batteries short out internally, you will not get multiple clicks from the solenoid. Forget about accessing anything from under the loader.

 

[ranchhopper]

Time to get the volt meter out. Connect your white wire. You can check the voltage at that terminal. You may need someone watching the meter as you attempt to crank. If the voltage drops below 8v, then you probably have a battery or battery cable connection issue. When those batteries short out internally, you will not get multiple clicks from the solenoid. Forget about accessing anything from under the loader.

Ok that will be my next thing I check if the battery were shorted out would it just shut down everything on the display in the machine like it has done. The only thing that's a bit funny is jumping the power from the large terminal on the solenoid to the spade where the wire hooks to to actuate the starter wont make it spin either.

 

[ranchhopper]

Ok that will be my next thing I check if the battery were shorted out would it just shut down everything on the display in the machine like it has done. The only thing that's a bit funny is jumping the power from the large terminal on the solenoid to the spade where the wire hooks to to actuate the starter wont make it spin either.

Update: Turned out to be the starter was surprised when I unbolted the bottom bolt and the ground strap was not attached to anything. I do not want to do this again replacing the starter in a cold garage with the arms of the machine in the down position. Had to reach around the hydraulic reservoir and do it all by feel. Only tip I can give on this is I went to the store and got a four inch long metric bolt and used it to locate and bolted it into the top hole. The starter could be moved around easily sliding on that bolt to locate the bottom hole and bolt it tight then remove the long bolt on the top and install the original. Started was loose inside must of had a short tested good three times at NAPA until I shook it and had them tested again and it blew the breaker in the panel the test machine was ran off of it. Shook it again and it tested good but you could hear the test machine was straining to get the Bendix to come out then it would run freely. Hope this helps someone save themselves a lot of diagnosis time in the future.