Trying to tighten the drive chains but a couple of the bolts that hold the axle hub just spin.

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TLCary

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Diagram shows that the bolts are ribbed. I'm guessing the splines tore free before the old rusted nut turned off.
Any ideas on how I can fix this? I'm at a loss.
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Diagram shows that the bolts are ribbed. I'm guessing the splines tore free before the old rusted nut turned off.
Any ideas on how I can fix this? I'm at a loss.
View attachment 9577View attachment 9578
I have never worked on one of those machines but here are my thoughts:
If they need to come off then you probably will have to cut or torch them off. The problem then is if the hole that the lug presses into is too big for new ones you will need to weld plug the holes and re-drill them to fit the new lugs.
 
I used a Nut Splitter to remove the nuts and then pulled the axle housing. I welded the ribbed bolts in place.

New problem... There isn't enough travel to tighten up the chains. Is it possible they have stretch to far over the years? Anyone know if I can get away with removing a link, or how to do that? A new set of chains will cost about $2K.

And that... is a big chain:
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I do not recommend removing a link if in fact the chains have stretched. Chains will only stretch so far and then they break.

Have you looked into getting chains from a bulk supplier? You just need to figure out what size and rating the existing chains are. They are normally much cheaper this way.

Also, you should see if the machine has a tolerance for how loose the chains can/should be. Maybe it’s not the chains but worn sprockets. Just a thought.
 
Great info. Appreciate it. I'll do some shopping and measuring.
LS180 #100
  • Front Chain Length (64links) 80′′
  • Rear Chain Length (58 links) 72.5′′
 
just t adding , take with a gain of alt, and I know we all have budgets!
BUT
when ever you replace chains, your supposed to replace sprockets at SAME time(and yes I know many DON"T do this, including me at times)

the reason is, they are things that wear into each other form fitting more or less

when you only replace one, be it chain or sprockets
the new chain or sprockets can wear a lot faster due to the older one's being worn past spec

SO, I would be inspecting the sprockets really well, looking for pointy or curved tips
wear indicators where its running low in the groves, and or very shinny roller that seems to have worn down, causing things to ride deeper in sprockets


Lastly, I would try doing a search either here or online, as I ?? my memory ain;'t the best anymore

but I recall reading I think in thread here, that someone was finding HD chains on I think Amazon, or some other shop, for far less than dealer wanted
but they had a link to things


that or look for the chain size and again search for chain makers and see if they can get you a better deal on them over dealers
 
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I agree with the guys that said research the chain tension and then decide if it worth the effort. It may be this is withing the tolerances. May not be the chains but the Sprockets as they said. The age of the machine and lube of the chain should give it long life. Not alway done. The age of the machine is? If old like mine is it may be time to fix and sell if used alot. Aside from all the good info. I don't know if you can afford all of it as shown but There could be half link that you can use if a whole link is removed. I know not always a good idea but to get you by it does work. Know the sizes and there should be a number on the side of a link that can be used for its strength. One more thing if you do one side do both sides the same way. Good Luck!
 
My 1996 NH LX 885 had its drive chains tightened after 25 years and it made a world of difference in drive response. I agree with trying the least expensive method and splitting the nut off. But then the challenge might be getting access for a new splined bolt that may not find the fit tight in the housing if it was softer than the bolt. If so, you might need to use a conventional bolt. Hopefully there will wrench clearance.
 

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