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General Skidsteer & Technical Topics
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Traction Tracks Chain style tire tracks.
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<blockquote data-quote="Earthwerks Unlimited" data-source="post: 16216" data-attributes="member: 1300"><p>I bought a set off ebay from another guy. They were a joke. They were made of 3/8" bar stock and supoposedly logging chain. They were held together with a dinky link that was rated for 300lb. Broke many links before I installed my own 800lb. links but they too broke. Chain tracks are only good for going straight without turning. If you think of it they are not rigid when pushed from the side, which allows them to get get stuck undeer the tires and peel themselves off in seconds---did it many times. In fact the pieces of carap I bougfht on ebay got wrapped around my tires and stuck between the chassis and the tire and scrathed up my brand new engine hood, new paint on the loader arm and chassis. I sent them back and got a refund. Oh yeah and the track shoes got bent all to hell. Keeping them tight was a nightmare---if each link wore just just .003 a day times say, 200 links, that means there is almost 5/8" of stretch per DAY! In about a month of use you'll end up removing an entire track shoe to take up the slack. I ended up rengineering the crappy ebay ones and used 1/2" x 2-1/2" that were cut and bent at a steel supplier for $1 each (I helped bend them--took an hour). Then I bought logging 9,600lb chain and solid links with pins to secure the ends. Then I had a welding shop arc weld the shoes ot the chains with low-hydrogen rod which worked great. I still had to tighten them but not near as often. My buddy still uses them. I use light-weight, alloy, high-floatation tracks made by www.TracksPlus.com also known as Fisher-Barton. They require tightening too but not as much/often as the chain types.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Earthwerks Unlimited, post: 16216, member: 1300"] I bought a set off ebay from another guy. They were a joke. They were made of 3/8" bar stock and supoposedly logging chain. They were held together with a dinky link that was rated for 300lb. Broke many links before I installed my own 800lb. links but they too broke. Chain tracks are only good for going straight without turning. If you think of it they are not rigid when pushed from the side, which allows them to get get stuck undeer the tires and peel themselves off in seconds---did it many times. In fact the pieces of carap I bougfht on ebay got wrapped around my tires and stuck between the chassis and the tire and scrathed up my brand new engine hood, new paint on the loader arm and chassis. I sent them back and got a refund. Oh yeah and the track shoes got bent all to hell. Keeping them tight was a nightmare---if each link wore just just .003 a day times say, 200 links, that means there is almost 5/8" of stretch per DAY! In about a month of use you'll end up removing an entire track shoe to take up the slack. I ended up rengineering the crappy ebay ones and used 1/2" x 2-1/2" that were cut and bent at a steel supplier for $1 each (I helped bend them--took an hour). Then I bought logging 9,600lb chain and solid links with pins to secure the ends. Then I had a welding shop arc weld the shoes ot the chains with low-hydrogen rod which worked great. I still had to tighten them but not near as often. My buddy still uses them. I use light-weight, alloy, high-floatation tracks made by www.TracksPlus.com also known as Fisher-Barton. They require tightening too but not as much/often as the chain types. [/QUOTE]
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General Skidsteer & Technical Topics
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Traction Tracks Chain style tire tracks.
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